13b turbo, engine rebuild
#1
Ok so I just purchased a 1990 FC 13b turbo engine, and it has about 150k miles on it. I was wondering what should I replace when rebuilding it? I have looked at a bunch of different things and it seems that it will cost around $6k at the most to rebuild it completely.
What I found in order to rebuild an engine was:
1 complete kit including all brand new gaskets, oil o rings, seals, springs, bearings and what not - $1300
2 Brand new rotors - $650 each
2 New rotor housings (front and rear) - $700 each
1 Front (side) housing - $400
1 Intermidiate housing - $450
1 Rear (side) housing - $400
Total - $5250 only for engine
This engine will be used in drift competitions. So pretty much my question is. Out of all the listed parts which do you think will be neccessary to be replaced in order to have the engine running strong for next few years?
What I found in order to rebuild an engine was:
1 complete kit including all brand new gaskets, oil o rings, seals, springs, bearings and what not - $1300
2 Brand new rotors - $650 each
2 New rotor housings (front and rear) - $700 each
1 Front (side) housing - $400
1 Intermidiate housing - $450
1 Rear (side) housing - $400
Total - $5250 only for engine
This engine will be used in drift competitions. So pretty much my question is. Out of all the listed parts which do you think will be neccessary to be replaced in order to have the engine running strong for next few years?
#3
shoot man, I say step one only ($1300) you only need to replace the rotors if they're scored (scattered apex seal, dropped a bolt down the intake manifold then ran your motor, etc) the rotor housings kind of follow the rotor except add chrome flaking to that if they arend broke dont fix em, and the irons should be reuseable a dial test indicator and a nifty magnetic stand (available at sears) will tell you that.
run a compression check, that'll tell you what to expect. if compression is good then you can probably count on just a rebuild kit, if the compression drops on one or more surfaces of the rotor then I'd buy only that new rotor and housing. on my rebuild I had a $50 junkyard motor on standby to pull parts from, by far the best investment I made as you'll break a lot of nickle and dime (not to mention hard to find) parts.
my old rotors, old housings, and old irons (with an atkins rebuild kit) are holding just fine. My car runs like the day it came off the boat (if not better!)
good luck, dont forget the beer and check out diy-re for a how to video (I couldnt have done the rebuild without it, no kidding)
run a compression check, that'll tell you what to expect. if compression is good then you can probably count on just a rebuild kit, if the compression drops on one or more surfaces of the rotor then I'd buy only that new rotor and housing. on my rebuild I had a $50 junkyard motor on standby to pull parts from, by far the best investment I made as you'll break a lot of nickle and dime (not to mention hard to find) parts.
my old rotors, old housings, and old irons (with an atkins rebuild kit) are holding just fine. My car runs like the day it came off the boat (if not better!)
good luck, dont forget the beer and check out diy-re for a how to video (I couldnt have done the rebuild without it, no kidding)
#4
dpends on the budget. if youve got sponsors, buy a mazda reman, and tear it apart and replace anything they didnt...
if you're on a budget, the side irons wear slowly, you might not need to touch em, or if you do, a lapping will work
rotors also wear slowly, if they arent damaged, and spec out, they are fine
rotor housings, you should buy new, unless yours are really nice
ive been told that if you run higher oil pressure (FD regulator $24 new) revvins engine stud kit @ 55#'s and balance the rotating assembly that you'll end up with a really solid engine.....
if you're on a budget, the side irons wear slowly, you might not need to touch em, or if you do, a lapping will work
rotors also wear slowly, if they arent damaged, and spec out, they are fine
rotor housings, you should buy new, unless yours are really nice
ive been told that if you run higher oil pressure (FD regulator $24 new) revvins engine stud kit @ 55#'s and balance the rotating assembly that you'll end up with a really solid engine.....
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