Can somebody just tell me the Min & Max numbers i will see with my engine for Oil press and Oil Temp? Thats really all I need to know.

Read this write up from Racing Beat:



Oil Pressure &

Temperature Adapter 1980-92





Part Number: 11802

Retail Price: $48.00

Qty:













Oil Pressure and Temperature Adapter 1980-82 (12A) & 1984-92 (13B)

The Oil Pressure and Temperature Adapter allows easy installation of these sender units for most popular gauges (1/8-inch female pipe for oil pressure and 3/8-inch female pipe for oil temperature). It will accommodate both mechanical or electrical senders. The adapter mounts immediately below the oil filter assembly and includes all necessary O-rings. Gauges, senders, and adapter nuts are not included. The normal oil pressure in a stock Mazda rotary is approximately 71 psi above 3,000 RPM, (110 psi above 3,000 RPM in the 1993-95 RX-7) and should never drop below 15 psi at idle (use a 0 to 125 psi gauge). Normal oil temperature varies quite a bit depending on the operating conditions, but usually stabilizes between 140F and 200F. If the temperature exceeds 210F, reduce the load on the engine immediately or shut it off. Continued operation above 210F may damage the engine.



Note: This adapter is not available for 1993-95 RX-7s or 1983-85 12A RX-7s equipped with oil-to-water coolers

the oil pressure should be over 25psi at idle and over 55-60 at 3k rpm.

the temp should not go over 225?

the stock gauges are actually quite accurate, my 226k mile gsl-se's orignial temp gauge is within 2 degrees of the greddy one



mike

sunshine: i can't remember exactly which models i have. its true that in general you want the most sweep, since it will show slight variations better. i have the oil temp gauge that reads to 250 degrees farenheit (auto meter). you may see it go as high as 230 degrees during racing. on water, i think they have one that goes from like 180-240? if you get over 230, you're toast. i am not sure i would get the oil pressure gauge. rotaries are not as sensitive to pressure as they are to volume. what i did was keep the sender circuit for low volume from the stock gauge and just cut a hole in the dash and put a small led or light through it, so when oil was low, it would glow red. if you have a spare gauge hole, use it for something like fuel pre3ssure, if you can bite the bullit on cost (about $180). the other auto meter gauges you mentioned are cheaper.



(as to the negative comments on auto meter: its bullshit. auto meter's better gauges are as accurate as anyone's and their newest boost gauge is functionally superior to anything on the market today. it auto adjusts for baro pressure on startup and also adjusts for temp. they DO NOT make the prettiest gauges and their gauges aren't made as "exquisitely" as the greddy or apexi gauges, but they are accurate and you can get any gauge you want, like brake fluid temperature or block temperature. and, they will all match. aestheically there's nothing worse than using three different gauges...)



-gordon

I agree with Gordon, I think people confuse a better looking gauge with accuracy.

Auto Meter is what is in every Nascar and NHRA car, and have been around for ALOT longer then any of these new comers.

When I was in the market for gauges for my car I couldnt believe the price of some of the Greddy and Blitz, and I wasnt crazy about the gauges either, being a Auto Meter person for the last 12 years I decided to go with them.

i suggested not to buy auto meter because they are the only ones who have a choice of sweep. if you buy a greddy gauge, for example, they are all large sweep; problem solved



mike

I was actually referring to another post and just the general rumor.