|
Hey all, some quick ?'s since I got my taxes back and got my self out of medical debt. I am going to buy some more parts to finsh off my S4 N/A. I already have a ton of parts for it, but I need to do the suspension as its the only thing I haven't touched yet.
I have some tokico HP's (the blue ones), I am going to get some GC coil overs and was wondering what would be suggested springs for the street/track days. I think I heard 350lb fronts and 175lbs rear from j9fd3s but I'm not sure. Strut Bars, I'm leaning tword the Mazdatrix triangulated front bar, not sure on rear, open to other suggestions, would like any feed back on strut bars I can get. Sway bars, RB seems to be a good combo, theres also Suspension techniques. The AWR set-up seems awsome but too much for my uses, once again I'm open to other suggestions and would like some feed back on any and all sway bar set-ups. And yeah I know they are anti-sway bars https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...R#>/violin.gif Lastly lower arm bars, I like the Mazdaspeed ones, basically cuz there mazdaspeed https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/blush.png I noticed cusco makes one (its the cheapest) But then I noticed these at corksport http://corksport.com/store/large/e8j3/2rx-...er_Bar_Set.html . Any one used any of these, got and feed back or thoughts, post em up. Thanks all. |
On the Auto exe stuff if you get it weld it in if possible, bolt holes will waller out after hard driving. Just like bolt in roll cages they are pointless.
|
Why are the front spring rates so much higher than the rears? Is it cause of the location/orientation? Since the car has about 50/50 weight distribution Id expect them to be a lot more similiar
|
Originally Posted by toplessFC3Sman' post='817174' date='May 2 2006, 06:08 PM
Why are the front spring rates so much higher than the rears? Is it cause of the location/orientation? Since the car has about 50/50 weight distribution Id expect them to be a lot more similiar Because the front suspension is a macpherson suspension, while the rear is a trailing arm. That and the motion ratios are completely different... And bolt in peices do not "waller out" if that was the case your 17+ year old rx7 would have long fallen apart when the bolts "waller out" all over the car from the factory |
Ok, so the front, being a macpherson, is a lot closer to the spring rate that would be measured if you just shoved the wheel up and saw how much it deflected, whereas the rear spring has a big mechanical advantage, in terms of angle of action and effective moment arm.
How come the RB kit for the vert increases the front rate by almost 50%, while decreasing the rear by about 10% (according to rates measured by mazdatrix) I thought that not only the verts were heavier in back (and all over) than the coupes, but already were more on the understeer-y side. Why would u want to give the rear less spring and greater grip when compared to the front? It doesnt really make sense to me, especially when the other springs tested increase the rate over stock (even tho they are for cars with lighter rear ends, and more power to the rear in the case of the TII) From this, will springs made for a coupe fit on a vert? |
Originally Posted by Cheers!' post='817228' date='May 2 2006, 09:56 PM
Because the front suspension is a macpherson suspension, while the rear is a trailing arm. That and the motion ratios are completely different... And bolt in peices do not "waller out" if that was the case your 17+ year old rx7 would have long fallen apart when the bolts "waller out" all over the car from the factory |
Originally Posted by j200pruf' post='817144' date='May 2 2006, 01:05 PM
Hey all, some quick ?'s since I got my taxes back and got my self out of medical debt. I am going to buy some more parts to finsh off my S4 N/A. I already have a ton of parts for it, but I need to do the suspension as its the only thing I haven't touched yet. I have some tokico HP's (the blue ones), I am going to get some GC coil overs and was wondering what would be suggested springs for the street/track days. I think I heard 350lb fronts and 175lbs rear from j9fd3s but I'm not sure. Strut Bars, I'm leaning tword the Mazdatrix triangulated front bar, not sure on rear, open to other suggestions, would like any feed back on strut bars I can get. Sway bars, RB seems to be a good combo, theres also Suspension techniques. The AWR set-up seems awsome but too much for my uses, once again I'm open to other suggestions and would like some feed back on any and all sway bar set-ups. And yeah I know they are anti-sway bars https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...R#>/violin.gif Lastly lower arm bars, I like the Mazdaspeed ones, basically cuz there mazdaspeed https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/blush.png I noticed cusco makes one (its the cheapest) But then I noticed these at corksport http://corksport.com/store/large/e8j3/2rx-...er_Bar_Set.html . Any one used any of these, got and feed back or thoughts, post em up. Thanks all. 350front 200-250ish rear handles well and rides better than stock. going higher on the spring rate, you loose ride faster than you gain handling. ive got strut bars on my current car, and the rear upper one made the biggest difference, it is a mazdaspeed, but i'm not sure that matters. didnt notice a difference with either of the front bars, but i'm still on the stock spring and shock, for now. if you have the bigger s4/s5 bars i think thats good for the street. the stock ones work pretty well you dont really "need" to upgrade. |
I went with 375/250 for the GC's. I have both strut bars but I've been leaving the front off because the car is too stiff in the front. This could be because I'm also using an RB front sway bar with stock rear right now.
|
I went RB sway bars, poly bushings, stance coilovers, mazdaspeed lower control arm and i think that covers most of the major suspension parts... haven't driven the car yet, but it all looks good..and the quality is superb.
|
Originally Posted by fc3s4utnv' post='817315' date='May 3 2006, 01:52 PM
I beg to differ, almost all of the suspension that is bolted to the subframe on our cars uses alot thicker, heavier bolts that what the Auto exe stuff does. I dont know if you have ever seen a bolt in roll cage, they get loose after a while and have to be snugged up, me personally I dont want that, weld it and be done. I have to disagree as well. I'm with cheers! on this one.. I'm using a bolt in cage on my FB project and have used many bolt in cages before. For most applications bolt in works just fine, especially considering the fact you can just take it out when you wreck your car and need to throw it in another etc... welding is of course better, but i wouldnt say bolt-ins suck. They both work very well. As for suspension bolts getting lose, learn to torque things properly and use the right thread lock and your good to go... |
You misunderstood my point, I didnt say bolt in cages suck, welding one is much safer than a bolted one. When you bolt one in it is only as strong as the bolts you have used.
As well I was not talking about suspension bolts getting loose, I was talking about the bolts used to bolt the crossmember in (I.E. auto exe subframe connectors), after awhile of drivng with them bolted in the holes made to connect the peices to gether will start to stretch, making them loose. I welded the subframe connectors in that I made for my car, I WILL NOT have it any other way. |
The RB spring kit is as much softer in the rear (than the front) as it is, compared to spring kits from other companies, because a soft/pliable ass will squat under hard-launch acceleration (ie drag racing), and hook up faster, while a stiffer ass is more likely to just pass the power directly to the road (spinning the tires and not moving forward). It seems to me that under the right (wrong?) conditions, that soft of an ass (from the RB springs) could potentially cause dangerous understeer (because the rear isn't giving up its traction, and something has to, so it would be the stiffer front). Whereas a *reasonably* stiff ass will oversteer predictably, providing a safer and more entertaining track/street car.
Unless you want to drag race, the RB kit is not ideal. ST makes a nice even kit. I welcome corrections to my above assumptions and derived conclusions. |
The RB rears are actually softer than stock. I guess actual testing would have to be done to see exactly what the combo will do. But I dont like the concept of it.
|
yea, thats just what i was wondering about too... with a car as balanced front to rear as the FC, you would want spring rates that matched more closely. You wouldnt want to soften the rear and stiffen the front unless you were intentionally trying to get it to understeer (or had no idea what you were doing).
Do springs and shocks made for the coupes fit on convertibles? |
| All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:09 PM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands