I have seen n/a fc's run in the 13's and even 12's na, but is this really streetable. I am shooting for low 13's and want to know if this can be done on a streetable n/a 13b. A ridiculous port is not something I am looking for, but for low 13's, I guess I will have to make some sacrafices.



What do you guys think, should I go turbo or stick with my n/a? As far as reliability, most likely a low 13 second turbo would be best, I am just curious.

n/a is more unique. to me turbo is the easy way out fast. i would do everything to the n/a first and see what happens and then when your done then run a turbo 6port

From talking to some people that really know their stuff i have come to find that peripheral port engines are actually much much more reliable and streetable than any side port engine. Problem is, without a very well engineered intake manifold and wonderful tuning they have no low end power, and they dont idle. But, if you could do it, you would have no problems getting into the 12's. I already think i know how to make it work, but i dont have the money.



Anyone want to donate a peripheral port engine or housings? Haha, when i am done designing and testing i will make you a free intake manifold that will make the car as driveable as stock but make power like a 3rd gen rx7! I am actually really serious, i think i can do it, i have an awesome intake design. I just need funding.

what do you consider streetable?



i want to be able to hand the keys to anyone and not have to give instrustions, you might have another criteria

As far as streetable, I would like a decent idle and a pretty flat torque curve and powerband if possible. I know that rotaries by design are not big on low end power, but decent low end and midrange, at least somewhat comparable to stock is fine.



I am considering getting a turbo II, since I heard that they are more streetable and reliable than the FD's, I have heard that from several rx-7 owners. They said that they are a lot more reliable. To be honest I though that to be a little strange, that a later model car would be LESS reliable, but I do see a lot more running turbo II than FD's.



I have a friend with a 12 second FC that rebuilt his motor with 3mm apex seals and a bnr stage 2 turbo, it's a pretty sweet ride, but my other friend with his fd with a similar rebuild by the same shop is always having problems with his car, he still has the stock twins though. I heard a lot of the FD problems are from the emissions requirements (back log head from the cats). I don't know if that's true, but the FD's do not seem to be good daily drivers.



Well I might stay with the n/a, but the turbo 2 is in mind, I think that a 13 sec streetable fc would be easier than a 13sec n/a.

Sorry double post

I think even a peripheral port engine can be made to be streetable, and i do mean really streetable. But, i would have to draw pictures and things to explain how it would be done and thats alot of trouble.



FDs may really be less reliable, but from what i have seen alot of the owners are idiots. For the most part a rotary is a rotary and internals are all similar. Mods without tuning is usually the problem. The people that have FDs usually have more money, care less, and there are more aftermarket parts out there for FDs so the odds just arent in their favor. People that have FCs usually had to work harder to get the car, they have less money and they read and do things right the first time to keep from having to spend alot of money. At least thats my take on it, and of course this isnt true with everyone.



Get whatever car you want, but know what you are doing or having done. Just because someone says, "I am a rotary specialist." doesnt mean he/she really is. These cars are easy to work on, if you have any mechanical ability you can do it, just read and read and re-read everything you can find about the car. And remember everything you read isnt true, find lots of sources that agree on one thing before you take it to heart.

if you want a fast n/a that is streetable. Get a milder port and do all of the things in the info faq section. A good 4.30 rear end and lsd is a must. Get the bbs vert rims and some slicks. with all of that and not until that will you get around those times. it'll be hard but it can happen. Don't get frustrated if you dont' though.

are the vert rims the lightest of the FC wheels?

YES https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif

nice... the only light part of the car

https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683785.gif hehe, that's the truth!... I have kept my BBS rims off my vert to mount rain track tires for my GTUs street/track car.



I am still finishing my build, my car is "streetable" as I can't afford a seperate track car. I plan to try a friday night run at Pacific raceway sometime, and tho I have no real drag race experience, I am curious to see what mine might turn. I won't waste my New Yokohamas on this but I have some Kuhmo's on my stock 16" rims I don't care about. I have a cold air intake w/o a good airbox yet (on my to do list), RB header and y pipe exhaust with Mazdatrix cat, all of which was to pass smog and at least get some power and seat time. I plan to sell off most of it and consider a single pipe back from the header w/ presilencer and high flow muff, or spend the big bucks for the RB dual exhaust, later. I have a 4 puck clutch w/springs to keep the car semi civilised in commute traffic, so should be able to launch ok, but we'll see. The car has been stripped of some of the interior weight as well as no AC or Power steering so power to weight should be pretty good for a N/A. Once I actually do it I'll let ya know what run I get and whether the driver was slower than the car or not. I'd be curious to know how others do, too!

One thing about streetable is I have a nasty noisy resonance at 3000-3500 rpm, which is of course normal cruising on the freeway so I have earplugs for long rides. The price I pay for speed, no insulation and loud, tho nice sounding exhaust. My wife does not consider this car streetable... could be the coil over stiff ass springs/shocks, too! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

Neil

You probably all know this but in case..

As a base to compare the stock GTUs w/ the 4.3 diff was shown in the brochere to do 15.8 and 88mph in the 1/4, so yeah I'll probably have to wait till I no longer run in stock engine classes on road courses and I port it to join you in those quicker times... but we'll see once I try a run as it is.. I have to agree, that even lightened and with what I've done so far, I doubt I'll make any 13's till it's ported or supercharged. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...O_DIR#>/11.gif



neil

i think thirteens are defintaly dooable. im at 15.1 sucking in hot air with just a cone filter, i think with AC out and some cold air i can get 14.9, and a better launch. i have stock ported engine.

i believe in addition to what i have,a ported engine, 4.3 rearend, lightened flywheel,pulley kit,slicks, and a rebuilt tranny so u can shift faster without it grinding and groaning,and an excellent driver you could hit high 13's. those mods above are pretty much what i dont have.

i'm going to Indiana raceway park tomorrow and praying for 14's. the race of the day is between me and my buddy's foxbody.

have u ran it before?

no

post ur times https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png

sorry for the anticipation but I wasn't able to go. I had some car problems.

my new FC should be able to do this.........that is once it runs.......

Re: Streetable 13 sec n/a
 

I've never used anything bigger than a street port. It's enough to put u in the 13's and not mess up ur mpg. If its a street car use a street port don't mess up ur fuel economy and emissions.

Hitting 13's without a turbo is all about tuning.