it prolly vaccum leaks, and a misadjusted tps. we have 2-3 fc's that hot start with 120,000+ mile injectors, its vacuum leaks that make it flood



mike

Well you can eliminate leaking injectors RC Engineering just redid them, and plugs are like new only 800 miles, and definently not low compression.



It's starts fine when it's hot, It's when it's cold is the real problem

local performance stores like pep boys sell this spray called ether. spray it on certain places of ur engine where u think u have a vacumm leak. when the hose sucks up the ether, it shoots it out of the exhaust. this is how i found the vacuum leaks in my car when i got into an accident.



https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png

Okay so everyone thinks it's a vacuum leak??? But I took everything apart and replaced ALL the vacuum lines and ALL the gaskets!!! So any ideas



I did replace the battery and tps, it seemed to turn over faster, but it flooded??? It always floods, I believe; because when it starts it smokes, also it seems to start just fine if i pull the fuse to the pump if it doesn't just start right up the first time.



Also it still idles funny, might these problems be related; and by funny I mean it jumps from 800 to 1200 until it's warmed up real good then it just idles at 1000 rpms

Does it push black smoke out the tail?

Now sorta whitish grayish blue??? but I also premix oil, and the omp is still hooked up

Then its not too rich.Did you test the compression on it?Hows the plugs?What about timing?Is it still good?

Compression test shows upper 7's (between 7.4-7.9) on all chambers on a factory mazda tester



The plugs still look new with only about 1000 miles on them



The timing is set two needle thicknesses advanced at about 850-900 rpm

if you wanna look for a vacume leak try a unlit proplane torch. when you kit the vacume leak the rpm will jump so then you kno wwhere the vacume leak is....







ej

i think yours will be much happier with that atp sensor



mike