TII swap wiring help needed!
06-07-2006, 09:45 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 49
Finishing up a TII swap into my vert and need some help finishing up the wiring process. The main harness that connects to the ecu is fine and connected just have to wire up the alternator to it.
My problem is I dont remember where the wires from the body harness or I guess its the body harness , the one on the drivers side of the car runs up where the fuel filter is. It has a few connectors and a few grounds and I really dont remember where most of the clips go. I've looked through the service manual various times and have searched all 3 rx7 forums and really couldent find the info I am looking for. So maybe someone can be kind enough to point me in the right direction.
Lastly , as far as engine bay fuel lines go , are they all the same size and if so what size , I need to redo most of them since they were either cut or in bad shape. A link to a diagram including them would be very helpful.
A huge thank you to anyone that replies.
My problem is I dont remember where the wires from the body harness or I guess its the body harness , the one on the drivers side of the car runs up where the fuel filter is. It has a few connectors and a few grounds and I really dont remember where most of the clips go. I've looked through the service manual various times and have searched all 3 rx7 forums and really couldent find the info I am looking for. So maybe someone can be kind enough to point me in the right direction.
Lastly , as far as engine bay fuel lines go , are they all the same size and if so what size , I need to redo most of them since they were either cut or in bad shape. A link to a diagram including them would be very helpful.
A huge thank you to anyone that replies.
06-07-2006, 08:52 PM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Freeport FL
Posts: 381
[attachment=38548:attachment]
Just the alternator: Find the plug called X-15 in the 88 online FSM. Its a dark yellow plug on the EMISSIONS harness you installed to replace your non turbo EMISSIONS harness.
It's inside the car on the passengers side. It has 15 (fifteenn) sockets.
If you look at the FRONT half of that plug called X-15, you will see a Black/White wire on the top row, third socket over. That is where you need to string a wire from the alternators small plug. From the small plugs socket that is nearest to the keyway of that small plug.
The other wire for the alternator is WHITE/BLACK. Look again at that 15 socket connector called FEM-01. Look again at the FRONT half of that plug. See the W/B wire in the bottom row just under the white/black wire mentioned above???? That is where you need to string a wire for the WHITE/BLACK wire in the alternator connector.
What you'd really do is string the black/white and white/black wires to the EMISSIONS half of that connector so they would mate with the black/white and white black wires in the FRONT half of that harness plug.
But, you say, what about the two wires that are already occupying those two sockets in the EMISSIONS side of that X-15 plug??????? Remove them. They are a brown/red wire on top and a pure Black one in the bottom (might be brown/black).
Then you ask "what does the brown/red do on a turbo Emissions harness"? Well that wire is spliced to the output of the boost sensor and was meant on a turboII to feed the boost gauge the boost signal. It is not required anymore since a convertible has no boost gauge. If you leave that wire and plug as is, then you'll end up having that brown/red wire going to the Meter fuse and backfeeding 12vdc to the ECU pin 2B. A pin that never sees more than approx 5vdc max. In other words the ECU would never see a good output from the boost sensor.
The water temp is even goofier. On a turbo the Y/W wire from the temp sender goes to FEM-01 and on a n/a it goes to X-16
Now pull apart the X-16 plug and look at the EMISSIONS half of that plug. You'll see a light green wire in the bottom row, third from the end. Remove that wire.
Now install that wire in X-15, bottom row, third socket from the end (it SHOULD be empty). The water temp gauge now works.
So? What to do with the light green wire you just removed from the X-16??? What does it do in life??? Got me. Naw. That lgiht green wire is for the KNOCK box signal from the KNOCK box to the ECU plug 1R.
In other words you NEED a wiring diagram for the car like the 88 one that is online and free for a download. The EMISSIONS CONTROL SYSTEM diagrams and the METERS AND WARNING SYSTEM diagrams show the wires I mentioned above along with the X-15 and X-16 plugs.
I guarantee you that there are any number of swaps out there where the fellow just swapped in a turbo EMISSIONS harness and thinks things are just peachy. Ignorance is bliss.
YOu need to double check what I wrote above with the diagrams. I have no vested interest if your car works right or not. You do.
You could just run two new wires from the alternator. One to the METER fuse inside the car and the other to the CPU (series four car) and splice it to the white/black wire that is in that plug.
The water temp.........well it really would be best to swap those two wires at the two plugs I mentioned above.
The ONE thing I'D do above all other things in the wide world, is to deal with that brown/red boost sensor signal wire I mentioned above. At the very least remove that wire from the plug OR cut it about six inches back. You do NOT EVER want to backfeed 12vdc to the ECU's pin 2B (series four car). The ECU won't burn up but the ECU will see a max boost signal all the time. Screws up timing etc.
Or you could find a site by a fellow named Rotary Resuection (sp) and on his site he deals with this swap and the wires.
Personally, I said screw it with the turbii EMISSIONS harness. I used my stock n/a harness when I did a n/a to turboii swap. There are wiring changes to be made there also, but I found it easier at the time. I had to wire the knock sensor and box in but I did this a half year after getting it up running. Then there was the twin scroll solenoid to deal with and a couple of other items.
YOU should try the Rotary Ressurection (sp) site perhaps???
By the way, a little humor: A fellow bought a RTEK2.0 and was asking why his boost reading on the Palm was high all the time. Answer: did a swap and did not deal with the boost signal (brown/red wire) backfeeding 12vdc from the Meter fuse to the boost sensor pin 2B. He had been running all that time not knowing his boost sensor input to the ECU was corrupt. Live and learn.
Try this site: http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/r...ges/turboconver
It seems to help OTHERS. I differ in many respects, but I'm prejudiced in my favor.
IF the above does not work try this:
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/r...oconversion.htm
Note how the parenthesis ( ) indicate wires for a turbo car.
See the first jpg and how it shows the Water Temp Gauge and the plugs X-15 and X-16 and how the turbo uses X-15 and non turbo uses X-16 to feed the YB (yellow/black) wire in the Front harness that feeds the Gauge????? Yes
So you have a Turbo Emission harness. Your YW (yellow/white) is in the X-15 plug.
So you have to remove that YW from X-15 and put it in the X-16 plug (on your turboii emissions harness).
Unforutnatley there is a (LgB) already in there, so it has to be removed from the X-16 so you can install the YW wire.
If you look at the plug called X-15 and just the [EM] half of that plug, you'll see a BW wire just above a WB wire. Those are the two wires from the alternator for a NONTURBO car.
Your TURBO emissions harness you just installed has no wires in it for the alternator. The Turbo car has those two wires in the ENGINE harness. Engine harness being the one on the left side of the engine bay/engine.
So if you want your alternator to work you have to run two wires from the alternator to those two wires i.e. where the diagram shows the BW just above the WB.
Most important is the X-15 plug and where the BW wire has an arrow pointing to it and a (BrR) at the end of the arrow. That is what you have right now in your new turbo Emissions harness. That (BrR) is from the boost sensor. It NEEDS to be removed asap. Remember how anything in ( ) is what is in that socket for a TURBO car.
One last thing about the BW with the WB just below it. You''ll notice in parenthesis ( BrB) pointing to the WB wire. That is just a gound wire for the boost gauge which you don't have. So don't be hesitant about removing that wire. On your turbo harness it's possible it's just a pure black wire instead of brown/black.
You'd need to remove it to install one of the two new alternator wires that you might install for the volt gauge to work.
About that Turbo Emissions harness you have and the plug called X-16(87FSM) or FEM-02 (88FSM)
What the wires do in life on the top row from left to right:
( BR) is for the Port Air Solenoid.
( BY) is 12vdc for injector feed.
(BR) is a signal to the Fuel Pump Resistor Relay from the ECU. An item your car does not have.
( WL) is 12vdc from the BTN fuse to the ECU.
( BW) is 12vdc to feed the solenoids.
( LgB) is from the pwr steering switch.
On the bottom row from left to right:
( W) is for the Split Air Solenoid.
(BY) is a redundant 12vdc for the injector feed.
( Lg) is from the Knock Box to the ECU.
( Br) is from the AFM to the Circuit Opening Relay.
( BL) is the start signal from the start circuit to the ECU pin 3B.
( BW) is a redundant 12vdc feed for the solenoids.
(BrY) is for the AirBypass Solenoid.
Thirteen wires. And like I said, that is what they do on a turbo car.
That's just the X-16 plug on the Emissions side.
Just the alternator: Find the plug called X-15 in the 88 online FSM. Its a dark yellow plug on the EMISSIONS harness you installed to replace your non turbo EMISSIONS harness.
It's inside the car on the passengers side. It has 15 (fifteenn) sockets.
If you look at the FRONT half of that plug called X-15, you will see a Black/White wire on the top row, third socket over. That is where you need to string a wire from the alternators small plug. From the small plugs socket that is nearest to the keyway of that small plug.
The other wire for the alternator is WHITE/BLACK. Look again at that 15 socket connector called FEM-01. Look again at the FRONT half of that plug. See the W/B wire in the bottom row just under the white/black wire mentioned above???? That is where you need to string a wire for the WHITE/BLACK wire in the alternator connector.
What you'd really do is string the black/white and white/black wires to the EMISSIONS half of that connector so they would mate with the black/white and white black wires in the FRONT half of that harness plug.
But, you say, what about the two wires that are already occupying those two sockets in the EMISSIONS side of that X-15 plug??????? Remove them. They are a brown/red wire on top and a pure Black one in the bottom (might be brown/black).
Then you ask "what does the brown/red do on a turbo Emissions harness"? Well that wire is spliced to the output of the boost sensor and was meant on a turboII to feed the boost gauge the boost signal. It is not required anymore since a convertible has no boost gauge. If you leave that wire and plug as is, then you'll end up having that brown/red wire going to the Meter fuse and backfeeding 12vdc to the ECU pin 2B. A pin that never sees more than approx 5vdc max. In other words the ECU would never see a good output from the boost sensor.
The water temp is even goofier. On a turbo the Y/W wire from the temp sender goes to FEM-01 and on a n/a it goes to X-16
Now pull apart the X-16 plug and look at the EMISSIONS half of that plug. You'll see a light green wire in the bottom row, third from the end. Remove that wire.
Now install that wire in X-15, bottom row, third socket from the end (it SHOULD be empty). The water temp gauge now works.
So? What to do with the light green wire you just removed from the X-16??? What does it do in life??? Got me. Naw. That lgiht green wire is for the KNOCK box signal from the KNOCK box to the ECU plug 1R.
In other words you NEED a wiring diagram for the car like the 88 one that is online and free for a download. The EMISSIONS CONTROL SYSTEM diagrams and the METERS AND WARNING SYSTEM diagrams show the wires I mentioned above along with the X-15 and X-16 plugs.
I guarantee you that there are any number of swaps out there where the fellow just swapped in a turbo EMISSIONS harness and thinks things are just peachy. Ignorance is bliss.
YOu need to double check what I wrote above with the diagrams. I have no vested interest if your car works right or not. You do.
You could just run two new wires from the alternator. One to the METER fuse inside the car and the other to the CPU (series four car) and splice it to the white/black wire that is in that plug.
The water temp.........well it really would be best to swap those two wires at the two plugs I mentioned above.
The ONE thing I'D do above all other things in the wide world, is to deal with that brown/red boost sensor signal wire I mentioned above. At the very least remove that wire from the plug OR cut it about six inches back. You do NOT EVER want to backfeed 12vdc to the ECU's pin 2B (series four car). The ECU won't burn up but the ECU will see a max boost signal all the time. Screws up timing etc.
Or you could find a site by a fellow named Rotary Resuection (sp) and on his site he deals with this swap and the wires.
Personally, I said screw it with the turbii EMISSIONS harness. I used my stock n/a harness when I did a n/a to turboii swap. There are wiring changes to be made there also, but I found it easier at the time. I had to wire the knock sensor and box in but I did this a half year after getting it up running. Then there was the twin scroll solenoid to deal with and a couple of other items.
YOU should try the Rotary Ressurection (sp) site perhaps???
By the way, a little humor: A fellow bought a RTEK2.0 and was asking why his boost reading on the Palm was high all the time. Answer: did a swap and did not deal with the boost signal (brown/red wire) backfeeding 12vdc from the Meter fuse to the boost sensor pin 2B. He had been running all that time not knowing his boost sensor input to the ECU was corrupt. Live and learn.
Try this site: http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/r...ges/turboconver
It seems to help OTHERS. I differ in many respects, but I'm prejudiced in my favor.
IF the above does not work try this:
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/r...oconversion.htm
Note how the parenthesis ( ) indicate wires for a turbo car.
See the first jpg and how it shows the Water Temp Gauge and the plugs X-15 and X-16 and how the turbo uses X-15 and non turbo uses X-16 to feed the YB (yellow/black) wire in the Front harness that feeds the Gauge????? Yes
So you have a Turbo Emission harness. Your YW (yellow/white) is in the X-15 plug.
So you have to remove that YW from X-15 and put it in the X-16 plug (on your turboii emissions harness).
Unforutnatley there is a (LgB) already in there, so it has to be removed from the X-16 so you can install the YW wire.
If you look at the plug called X-15 and just the [EM] half of that plug, you'll see a BW wire just above a WB wire. Those are the two wires from the alternator for a NONTURBO car.
Your TURBO emissions harness you just installed has no wires in it for the alternator. The Turbo car has those two wires in the ENGINE harness. Engine harness being the one on the left side of the engine bay/engine.
So if you want your alternator to work you have to run two wires from the alternator to those two wires i.e. where the diagram shows the BW just above the WB.
Most important is the X-15 plug and where the BW wire has an arrow pointing to it and a (BrR) at the end of the arrow. That is what you have right now in your new turbo Emissions harness. That (BrR) is from the boost sensor. It NEEDS to be removed asap. Remember how anything in ( ) is what is in that socket for a TURBO car.
One last thing about the BW with the WB just below it. You''ll notice in parenthesis ( BrB) pointing to the WB wire. That is just a gound wire for the boost gauge which you don't have. So don't be hesitant about removing that wire. On your turbo harness it's possible it's just a pure black wire instead of brown/black.
You'd need to remove it to install one of the two new alternator wires that you might install for the volt gauge to work.
About that Turbo Emissions harness you have and the plug called X-16(87FSM) or FEM-02 (88FSM)
What the wires do in life on the top row from left to right:
( BR) is for the Port Air Solenoid.
( BY) is 12vdc for injector feed.
(BR) is a signal to the Fuel Pump Resistor Relay from the ECU. An item your car does not have.
( WL) is 12vdc from the BTN fuse to the ECU.
( BW) is 12vdc to feed the solenoids.
( LgB) is from the pwr steering switch.
On the bottom row from left to right:
( W) is for the Split Air Solenoid.
(BY) is a redundant 12vdc for the injector feed.
( Lg) is from the Knock Box to the ECU.
( Br) is from the AFM to the Circuit Opening Relay.
( BL) is the start signal from the start circuit to the ECU pin 3B.
( BW) is a redundant 12vdc feed for the solenoids.
(BrY) is for the AirBypass Solenoid.
Thirteen wires. And like I said, that is what they do on a turbo car.
That's just the X-16 plug on the Emissions side.
06-07-2006, 10:36 PM
#3
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 49
Originally Posted by iceblue' post='823058' date='Jun 7 2006, 09:52 PM
[attachment=38548:attachment]
Thanks for the reply, I've seen that post on teamfc3s.
I understand the whole alternator thing.
The problem I am having is I dont remember what goes where and what I didnt connect when it comes to the harness on the drivers side of the engine bay , theres like 2 grounds and a few connectors. Can anyone point me to where they should go?
06-08-2006, 10:34 PM
#5
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 49
Originally Posted by iceblue' post='823126' date='Jun 8 2006, 02:10 AM
Yea I started acumulating a database of all this type of stuff. I got tierd of retyping things.
need pics
Took pics of all the stuff.
White connector right next to a spark plug
.jpg)
Close up of it.
.jpg)
Grey Connector its actually connected now but it was cut at the engine end from the old engine.
.jpg)
Same as above. Better Pic
These were in the middle of the harness.
.jpg)
Closer to the end of the harness.
.jpg)
First ground , lower of the two.
.jpg)
The other ground.
.jpg)
Close up
.jpg)
06-08-2006, 10:35 PM
#6
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 49
Another Connector , I guess its like a shielded ground.
.jpg)
Next to the PS pump
.jpg)
Big Metal mount towards the begining of the harness.
.jpg)
Lastly , single prong black connector , next to the drivers headlight where the PS and the AC connectors are.
.jpg)
Next to the PS pump
Big Metal mount towards the begining of the harness.
Lastly , single prong black connector , next to the drivers headlight where the PS and the AC connectors are.
06-09-2006, 03:38 PM
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Freeport FL
Posts: 381
White connector right next to a spark plug
alternator charge plug, CAS plug.
Close up of it.
alternator charge plug, CAS plug.
Grey Connector its actually connected now but it was cut at the engine end from the old engine.
Orange connector is Knock sensor.
Same as above. Better Pic
These were in the middle of the harness.
To the transmition.
Closer to the end of the harness.
Trransmition reverse lights and same as above. Should be N switch or something.
First ground , lower of the two.
Bolts through the long starter bolt through the tranny if ground or to the starter is the 12V one.
The other ground.
This looks more like the 12V to starter.
Close up
Black one is the starter solinoid.
alternator charge plug, CAS plug.
Close up of it.
alternator charge plug, CAS plug.
Grey Connector its actually connected now but it was cut at the engine end from the old engine.
Orange connector is Knock sensor.
Same as above. Better Pic
These were in the middle of the harness.
To the transmition.
Closer to the end of the harness.
Trransmition reverse lights and same as above. Should be N switch or something.
First ground , lower of the two.
Bolts through the long starter bolt through the tranny if ground or to the starter is the 12V one.
The other ground.
This looks more like the 12V to starter.
Close up
Black one is the starter solinoid.
06-09-2006, 03:42 PM
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Freeport FL
Posts: 381
Start solinoid
Next to the PS pump
Test connector.
Big Metal mount towards the begining of the harness.
Ground strap bolts through tranny to block bolt.
Lastly , single prong black connector , next to the drivers headlight where the PS and the AC connectors are.
Looks like the main power from 80A to main relay.
You realy should have labeld or known this stuff befor doing a swap. Also outlined in the FSM.
01-19-2013, 06:22 AM
#9
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Pasadena
Posts: 25
Re: TII swap wiring help needed!
Just the alternator: Find the plug called X-15 in the 88 online FSM. Its a dark yellow plug on the EMISSIONS harness you installed to replace your non turbo EMISSIONS harness.
It's inside the car on the passengers side. It has 15 (fifteenn) sockets.
If you look at the FRONT half of that plug called X-15, you will see a Black/White wire on the top row, third socket over. That is where you need to string a wire from the alternators small plug. From the small plugs socket that is nearest to the keyway of that small plug.
The other wire for the alternator is WHITE/BLACK. Look again at that 15 socket connector called FEM-01. Look again at the FRONT half of that plug. See the W/B wire in the bottom row just under the white/black wire mentioned above? That is where you need to string a wire for the WHITE/BLACK wire in the alternator connector.
What you'd really do is string the black/white and white/black wires to the EMISSIONS half of that connector so they would mate with the black/white and white black wires in the FRONT half of that harness plug.
But, you say, what about the two wires that are already occupying those two sockets in the EMISSIONS side of that X-15 plug? Remove them. They are a brown/red wire on top and a pure Black one in the bottom (might be brown/black).
Then you ask "what does the brown/red do on a turbo Emissions harness"? Well that wire is spliced to the output of the boost sensor and was meant on a turboII to feed the boost gauge the boost signal. It is not required anymore since a convertible has no boost gauge. If you leave that wire and plug as is, then you'll end up having that brown/red wire going to the Meter fuse and backfeeding 12vdc to the ECU pin 2B. A pin that never sees more than approx 5vdc max. In other words the ECU would never see a good output from the boost sensor.
The water temp is even goofier. On a turbo the Y/W wire from the temp sender goes to FEM-01 and on a n/a it goes to X-16
Now pull apart the X-16 plug and look at the EMISSIONS half of that plug. You'll see a light green wire in the bottom row, third from the end. Remove that wire.
Now install that wire in X-15, bottom row, third socket from the end (it SHOULD be empty). The water temp gauge now works.
So? What to do with the light green wire you just removed from the X-16? What does it do in life? Got me. Naw. That lgiht green wire is for the KNOCK box signal from the KNOCK box to the ECU plug 1R.
In other words you NEED a wiring diagram for the car like the 88 one that is online and free for a download. The EMISSIONS CONTROL SYSTEM diagrams and the METERS AND WARNING SYSTEM diagrams show the wires I mentioned above along with the X-15 and X-16 plugs.
I guarantee you that there are any number of swaps out there where the fellow just swapped in a turbo EMISSIONS harness and thinks things are just peachy. Ignorance is bliss.
You could just run two new wires from the alternator. One to the METER fuse inside the car and the other to the CPU (series four car) and splice it to the white/black wire that is in that plug.
The water temp.........well it really would be best to swap those two wires at the two plugs I mentioned above.
The ONE thing I'D do above all other things in the wide world, is to deal with that brown/red boost sensor signal wire I mentioned above. At the very least remove that wire from the plug OR cut it about six inches back. You do NOT EVER want to backfeed 12vdc to the ECU's pin 2B (series four car). The ECU won't burn up but the ECU will see a max boost signal all the time. Screws up timing etc.
Or you could find a site by a fellow named Rotary Resuection (sp) and on his site he deals with this swap and the wires.
By the way, a little humor: A fellow bought a RTEK2.0 and was asking why his boost reading on the Palm was high all the time. Answer: did a swap and did not deal with the boost signal (brown/red wire) backfeeding 12vdc from the Meter fuse to the boost sensor pin 2B. He had been running all that time not knowing his boost sensor input to the ECU was corrupt. Live and learn.
Note how the parenthesis ( ) indicate wires for a turbo car.
See the first jpg and how it shows the Water Temp Gauge and the plugs X-15 and X-16 and how the turbo uses X-15 and non turbo uses X-16 to feed the YB (yellow/black) wire in the Front harness that feeds the Gauge????? Yes
So you have a Turbo Emission harness. Your YW (yellow/white) is in the X-15 plug.
So you have to remove that YW from X-15 and put it in the X-16 plug (on your turboii emissions harness).
Unforutnatley there is a (LgB) already in there, so it has to be removed from the X-16 so you can install the YW wire.
If you look at the plug called X-15 and just the [EM] half of that plug, you'll see a BW wire just above a WB wire. Those are the two wires from the alternator for a NONTURBO car.
Your TURBO emissions harness you just installed has no wires in it for the alternator. The Turbo car has those two wires in the ENGINE harness. Engine harness being the one on the left side of the engine bay/engine.
So if you want your alternator to work you have to run two wires from the alternator to those two wires i.e. where the diagram shows the BW just above the WB.
Most important is the X-15 plug and where the BW wire has an arrow pointing to it and a (BrR) at the end of the arrow. That is what you have right now in your new turbo Emissions harness. That (BrR) is from the boost sensor. It NEEDS to be removed asap. Remember how anything in ( ) is what is in that socket for a TURBO car.
One last thing about the BW with the WB just below it. You''ll notice in parenthesis ( BrB) pointing to the WB wire. That is just a gound wire for the boost gauge which you don't have. So don't be hesitant about removing that wire. On your turbo harness it's possible it's just a pure black wire instead of brown/black.
You'd need to remove it to install one of the two new alternator wires that you might install for the volt gauge to work.
About that Turbo Emissions harness you have and the plug called X-16(87FSM) or FEM-02 (88FSM)
What the wires do in life on the top row from left to right:
( BR) is for the Port Air Solenoid.
( BY) is 12vdc for injector feed.
(BR) is a signal to the Fuel Pump Resistor Relay from the ECU. An item your car does not have.
( WL) is 12vdc from the BTN fuse to the ECU.
( BW) is 12vdc to feed the solenoids.
( LgB) is from the pwr steering switch.
On the bottom row from left to right:
( W) is for the Split Air Solenoid.
(BY) is a redundant 12vdc for the injector feed.
( Lg) is from the Knock Box to the ECU.
( Br) is from the AFM to the Circuit Opening Relay.
( BL) is the start signal from the start circuit to the ECU pin 3B.
( BW) is a redundant 12vdc feed for the solenoids.
(BrY) is for the AirBypass Solenoid.
Thirteen wires. And like I said, that is what they do on a turbo car.
That's just the X-16 plug on the Emissions side.[/QUOTE]
THANK YOU! This is the exact answer I joined NP to find! I just swapped an S4 13B T swap into my S4 vert, I could not figure out how to wire the alternator. Also I did not know about the other wires I need to swap around.
I do have a question, There is one extra white connector on my 13B T harness (please see first picture)that I do not know where to plug it in. It leads to the passenger kick panel where the stock green connectors plugged into the yellow and green connectors. Do I plug in the white connector from the 13B T harness with one of the green connectors from the 13B harness(please see second picture)?
Thanks again.
It's inside the car on the passengers side. It has 15 (fifteenn) sockets.
If you look at the FRONT half of that plug called X-15, you will see a Black/White wire on the top row, third socket over. That is where you need to string a wire from the alternators small plug. From the small plugs socket that is nearest to the keyway of that small plug.
The other wire for the alternator is WHITE/BLACK. Look again at that 15 socket connector called FEM-01. Look again at the FRONT half of that plug. See the W/B wire in the bottom row just under the white/black wire mentioned above? That is where you need to string a wire for the WHITE/BLACK wire in the alternator connector.
What you'd really do is string the black/white and white/black wires to the EMISSIONS half of that connector so they would mate with the black/white and white black wires in the FRONT half of that harness plug.
But, you say, what about the two wires that are already occupying those two sockets in the EMISSIONS side of that X-15 plug? Remove them. They are a brown/red wire on top and a pure Black one in the bottom (might be brown/black).
Then you ask "what does the brown/red do on a turbo Emissions harness"? Well that wire is spliced to the output of the boost sensor and was meant on a turboII to feed the boost gauge the boost signal. It is not required anymore since a convertible has no boost gauge. If you leave that wire and plug as is, then you'll end up having that brown/red wire going to the Meter fuse and backfeeding 12vdc to the ECU pin 2B. A pin that never sees more than approx 5vdc max. In other words the ECU would never see a good output from the boost sensor.
The water temp is even goofier. On a turbo the Y/W wire from the temp sender goes to FEM-01 and on a n/a it goes to X-16
Now pull apart the X-16 plug and look at the EMISSIONS half of that plug. You'll see a light green wire in the bottom row, third from the end. Remove that wire.
Now install that wire in X-15, bottom row, third socket from the end (it SHOULD be empty). The water temp gauge now works.
So? What to do with the light green wire you just removed from the X-16? What does it do in life? Got me. Naw. That lgiht green wire is for the KNOCK box signal from the KNOCK box to the ECU plug 1R.
In other words you NEED a wiring diagram for the car like the 88 one that is online and free for a download. The EMISSIONS CONTROL SYSTEM diagrams and the METERS AND WARNING SYSTEM diagrams show the wires I mentioned above along with the X-15 and X-16 plugs.
I guarantee you that there are any number of swaps out there where the fellow just swapped in a turbo EMISSIONS harness and thinks things are just peachy. Ignorance is bliss.
You could just run two new wires from the alternator. One to the METER fuse inside the car and the other to the CPU (series four car) and splice it to the white/black wire that is in that plug.
The water temp.........well it really would be best to swap those two wires at the two plugs I mentioned above.
The ONE thing I'D do above all other things in the wide world, is to deal with that brown/red boost sensor signal wire I mentioned above. At the very least remove that wire from the plug OR cut it about six inches back. You do NOT EVER want to backfeed 12vdc to the ECU's pin 2B (series four car). The ECU won't burn up but the ECU will see a max boost signal all the time. Screws up timing etc.
Or you could find a site by a fellow named Rotary Resuection (sp) and on his site he deals with this swap and the wires.
By the way, a little humor: A fellow bought a RTEK2.0 and was asking why his boost reading on the Palm was high all the time. Answer: did a swap and did not deal with the boost signal (brown/red wire) backfeeding 12vdc from the Meter fuse to the boost sensor pin 2B. He had been running all that time not knowing his boost sensor input to the ECU was corrupt. Live and learn.
Note how the parenthesis ( ) indicate wires for a turbo car.
See the first jpg and how it shows the Water Temp Gauge and the plugs X-15 and X-16 and how the turbo uses X-15 and non turbo uses X-16 to feed the YB (yellow/black) wire in the Front harness that feeds the Gauge????? Yes
So you have a Turbo Emission harness. Your YW (yellow/white) is in the X-15 plug.
So you have to remove that YW from X-15 and put it in the X-16 plug (on your turboii emissions harness).
Unforutnatley there is a (LgB) already in there, so it has to be removed from the X-16 so you can install the YW wire.
If you look at the plug called X-15 and just the [EM] half of that plug, you'll see a BW wire just above a WB wire. Those are the two wires from the alternator for a NONTURBO car.
Your TURBO emissions harness you just installed has no wires in it for the alternator. The Turbo car has those two wires in the ENGINE harness. Engine harness being the one on the left side of the engine bay/engine.
So if you want your alternator to work you have to run two wires from the alternator to those two wires i.e. where the diagram shows the BW just above the WB.
Most important is the X-15 plug and where the BW wire has an arrow pointing to it and a (BrR) at the end of the arrow. That is what you have right now in your new turbo Emissions harness. That (BrR) is from the boost sensor. It NEEDS to be removed asap. Remember how anything in ( ) is what is in that socket for a TURBO car.
One last thing about the BW with the WB just below it. You''ll notice in parenthesis ( BrB) pointing to the WB wire. That is just a gound wire for the boost gauge which you don't have. So don't be hesitant about removing that wire. On your turbo harness it's possible it's just a pure black wire instead of brown/black.
You'd need to remove it to install one of the two new alternator wires that you might install for the volt gauge to work.
About that Turbo Emissions harness you have and the plug called X-16(87FSM) or FEM-02 (88FSM)
What the wires do in life on the top row from left to right:
( BR) is for the Port Air Solenoid.
( BY) is 12vdc for injector feed.
(BR) is a signal to the Fuel Pump Resistor Relay from the ECU. An item your car does not have.
( WL) is 12vdc from the BTN fuse to the ECU.
( BW) is 12vdc to feed the solenoids.
( LgB) is from the pwr steering switch.
On the bottom row from left to right:
( W) is for the Split Air Solenoid.
(BY) is a redundant 12vdc for the injector feed.
( Lg) is from the Knock Box to the ECU.
( Br) is from the AFM to the Circuit Opening Relay.
( BL) is the start signal from the start circuit to the ECU pin 3B.
( BW) is a redundant 12vdc feed for the solenoids.
(BrY) is for the AirBypass Solenoid.
Thirteen wires. And like I said, that is what they do on a turbo car.
That's just the X-16 plug on the Emissions side.[/QUOTE]
THANK YOU! This is the exact answer I joined NP to find! I just swapped an S4 13B T swap into my S4 vert, I could not figure out how to wire the alternator. Also I did not know about the other wires I need to swap around.
I do have a question, There is one extra white connector on my 13B T harness (please see first picture)that I do not know where to plug it in. It leads to the passenger kick panel where the stock green connectors plugged into the yellow and green connectors. Do I plug in the white connector from the 13B T harness with one of the green connectors from the 13B harness(please see second picture)?
Thanks again.
