sooo the stock spec for an 89t2 for spark wire resistance is like 3.2kohms per foot (i think 3280ohms per foot to be exact)



I've got some magnecor wires and had to crimp on some new coil side fittings to work with my blaster ss coils.



since i had them out i tested their resistance, its about 2200 ohms per foot. so i went over to msd's sit and they say there super conductor wires have only 40-50ohms of resistance per foot.



is msd lying or did i just test my wires crappily? think they're still good wires even with 2200 ohms per foot?



i dunno i just dont see how it could only have 40-50ohms per foot when even a stock wire has 3280 ohms of resistance per foot.



kevin.

damn never mind, just read a very interesting article on how the really low resistance of the MSD spark plug wire, and other "super conductors" is actually useless for anything other then confusing consumers.



kevin.

link??

http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/truth.htm



its written by a wire manufacturer so youd consider it biased but its based on factual things.



kevin.

are you using the MSD blaster coils that looks like stock first gen ones. like soda cans...?



i have 2 and wanna put them on my TII...how would i go about wiring them in? feel like doing a photo illustradted write up?



would be good for the FAQ...

meh i cant really do a writeup cause there's nothing stock in my engine bay, at all. I'm using the MSD Blaster SS coils, sorta look like stockers only where the wire connects to the coil it's different.



As far putting coils on your t2, how extreme is your setup? The stock coils with an MSD 6A on the leading should handle almost anything. unless you have a bad coil or are going extreme theres no need to replace them.



kevin.

msd coils are pretty easy to install... I got a set of 2 blaster ss's, http://www.msdignition.com/coil_blaster_6_8207.htm not quite the ones you have but it should be the same idea.



here goes the write up "barney style": (and I did the trailing set, but the leading set should be the same idea)

note: this is only a 2 beer job, if you took longer you did it wrong.

-you're going to need a spot set aside to drill in mounts for the new coils... clear one now.

-notice the word drill in the last sentence: you'll need one and a couple bits.

-you'll also need a screwdriver (not the one made from vodka you commie), wire strippers, butt connectors (solder and heat shrink is preferred) and new plug wires (I used accell's 8.5 cuttem-yourselfers)



1) open first beer

2) take the screws out that hold the stock coil (the black part with the spark plug wire) to the ignitor (the silver metal part) should be about 4 of em per coil.

3) observe: you'll notice that it is now held there by 2 wires.

4) find out which wire is + or - via chiltons or markings on stock coils (its a good idea to lable them t1+, t1-, etc with masking tape) remember you're never too good of a wrencher to have notes (especially since you're drinking and prone to forget)

5) cut those wires (or unscrew em from coils... I cant remember which) but either way leave enough slack to splice in some wire to go to the positive and negative sides of the blaster coils (which you'll have to drill mounts for elsewhere)

6) drill holes for mounts... I measured the holes by holding the coil to the spot I wanted em in, and twisting a small drill bit to scratch the paint.

7) screw in coil, cut necessary length of plug wire and hookerup!

8) open second beer and repeat for the other trailing coil.

9) start an account on e-bay and sell the stock ones to pay for beer/child support!



when I did mine all I noticed was a slight gain in gas mileage... about 5 or so mpg. same with a buddy who used the same coil on his yota 4x4, took 3/4 tank to get to ft. worth, instead of a full tank.



couple other notes:

careful with the mounts msd supplies, they're prone to breaking.

DO NOT!!!! crank/run/anything the car if the coil isnt completely hooked up (that means the plug wire too!) you WILL fry the precious brand new high voltage coil you just spent your allowance on. and I WILL laugh at you for being the moron with one red and one black coil.

I don’t do the forum thing often cause my rx7’s are more reliable than my computer. I was just looking through when I came across this post and I wanted to ad in a lil’ bit of info. The resistance on plug wires is not to confuse or trick consumers. There actually is importance behind it. On an inductive style(stock) ignition out put voltage is dependent on input voltage and a coil will only use what voltage it needs to get the spark across the gap at the plug. When you run a capacitive discharge ignition box(MSD) you are force feeding the coil voltage that it has to use (it no longer gets to chose how much voltage is needed) so for optimal spark performance you would want a low resistant wire. The higher the resistance in your plug wires the less amount of voltage you will get at the plug. On a higher resistance plug wire you will force a coil to work harder for no good reason cause the little voltage increase from the extended work will be suppressed by the higher resistance. when it comes to deciding on a coil to use don’t shop by voltage you should look closer to the peak current that it has. The voltage a coil produces is used to get across the gap at the plug the current behind that voltage is what will get you whats inportant, your fuel burn.

The thing thats at argument there tho is how do you test real wire resistance? Passing 1 volt through it as a normal DVOM tests isnt the same as passing 45,000volts through it. When you are sending such large amounts of voltage the electricity actually flows "over" the wire, in a skin like style (its demonstrable by using an old TV tube actually) so it's not really the same kind of resistance as you can actually test with, as a DVOM tester puts 1 volt out, that volt is such low power it actually travels through the wire rather then having the "skin" effect.



kevin.