NO GO she just doesn't want to start. The spec are



0.self-rebuilt engine. new mid housing due to old housing

inter water seal grove break off and fell into coolent passages. Which let water into rotot housing. other then that

everything one to spec.



1.compression of rotor1 -90psi rotor 2 -93 psi



2.fuel preassure from fuel filter 55psi



3.new plugs



4. checked the resistance on wires good



5.same thing with coils good shape



6.engine gets a spark,

used a timing light on both rotors to check



7. timing is on tdc

eccentric drive key lined up with marker on front cover and

anlge sensor lined up with mark.



8.angle sensor resistance checks good



9. fuel injectors resistance checks good.



10. new battery



When I try to start it up and adjust the angle crank sensor

it get a hint of combution with some smoke out the back, but it just wont catch. I heard some combustion

then is ussually gets flooded with fuel and then i have to stop

take the plugs out turn the engine over have a nice clound of unburned fuel loom around for a second. Then I let her drie and put some oil in her and try it at a different timing setting. but i never really get any where. With some advances i get a better hit but nothing to get her going. And they are usully no where near TDC. Thnaks for any advise you could give and thanks for the advise before.

Is the air flow meter working ok?

I read that it could be air flow meter. I have a 90 miata also I could try and switching them out to see what happens.

next steps I’m thinking are



1. air flow switch if the are compatible.

2. Using a stethoscope to make sure the injectors are running well.

Even though I really can only get to the two of them.

A leak betweeen the air flow meter and TB could cause a problem like that. If it's flooding out and not sparking then it could have something to do with the CAS.

I know there's a lot of thing that can keep it from starting but if everything was working before you tear down the engine, why should it has faulty parts now? I think the whole problem started when trying to start with timing problem, now it's fixed. Because of that, there's too much stuff in there (oil and gas) and nothing could fire that stuff (more over, timing is only roughly set). The fastest way I see to flush that stuff out, is to drag the car on the driveway.

The car wants to start but not strong enough to clear that stuff out. It's my opinion anyway.

best way to start a rebuilt engine is by pushing with another car....you'll see if there's something wrong with it. launch in 2nd gear @ 10-15 mph...

Not really need to turn that fast but it'll do the job anyway, 4th or 5th gear is enough and smoother on engine, and keep the gas floored 'til it starts.

At least, someone shares my opinion on this. :newlaugh:

How old is the gas?

I have a half a tank and it not more then a month and a half old. About when I started the whole project.

SHE'S ALIVE SHE'S ALIVE sorta............

It worked pushing her with another car then poping the clutch worked. But as soon as I let off the gas she dies off. what should i do next. Is it an ideal control problem becuase when i got the car before i rebuilt the engine i noticed that she idealed around 1900 rpms. Also i'm getting lots of black smoke when she is running for about ten seconds. But ten seconds is about as long as I got her to still run.

well, its normal for a new rebuilt engine not to idle on its own for a while...suggestions are



1. push it, then drive it for some times....until it idles by itself

2. push it, then drive it back home, and use a piece of wood to let it run....move it so that it runs around 1.5krpm to 2.5krpm...





the smoke comes from the oil burning, which is normal

Yeah, that's great :thumbsup:

But after it got started, did you let off the gas at once? Because you have to slowly release it while the engine is flushing the extra stuff. It might take about 30 seconds before you can let off the gas completely, but help it with the gas as long as it doesn't seem cleared off. And keep an eye on oil pressure, it should not be down too long, a few seconds at most. You may have to work on timing to help it idle. ???

Sorry winger, my message got there after yours. I started writing it before you sent yours. When I sent mine, your message was there. I'm too slow! :shakehead:

Thanks for the help so far guys. Well, i've let it run with a peice of wood in my driveway for about 20 mins so far. If i try to bring the idle below 1300 rpms it dies. And it still won't start on its own. To get the correct timing i should use an adjustable timing advance light...right??? the factory specs say that the lead plug is 5 degrees btdc at idle (750rpm)? ***why doens't it work :eek: :eek: :eek: ***

No, it doesn't need to be adjustable. The shaft key should be corresponding with the yellow dot on the pulley, so according to the manual, the yellow dot should be lined up with the mark on the cover for the leading plugs at 750 RPM and represents 5 deg. The red dot is at 20 deg so 15 deg to the left of the yellow dot. But is it running rather smooth at higher RPM?



If I'm wrong somebody tell me because my car is running with these settings for 12 years! :confused:

Don't forget that if it can't idle slow enough you'll get faulty timing reading due to electronic advance. Just play with it to get the best you can for now. Check for vacuum leaks.

I must clarify my comments, you DO need an adjustable timing light if your pulley has no dots and no mark at all. Then in this case you must find a way to mark the edge of pulley for TDC. In this way you set 5 deg adv (leading) and 20 deg adv (trailing) on the timing light with the same mark (TDC). My comments were for helping you finds the dots but the yellow dot is not really lined up with the key but you can hardly notice it.



I don't pretend to be 100% sure of anything, but nobody has never told me I was wrong on that. Just trying to help.

So if I am please just say it guys, I want to learn! ???

Maybe I just found a way to mark the exact location of the TDC on your pulley. It goes a little like what you tried at the beginning but more precisely and goes like this:

- Turn the engine until you see an apex seal in the leading plug hole of the rear housing.

- Align it exactly with the center of the hole and mark the pulley with a marker pen.

- Turn slowly to align the same apex with the trailing plug and mark the pulley again.

- Now you just have to measure the distance betweet the 2 marks and at half way, you get the exact front rotor TDC.

- Measure the circumference of the pulley or Circ.= diameter*pi (measure precisely if you use the second method).

- Distance of the yellow dot to TDC = Circ./360*5

- Distance of the red dot to TDC = Circ./360*20

- Mark with a punch and paint the yellow and red dots measuring counter-clockwise from the TDC.

Now you have the yellow an red dots like on the stock pulley.



What do you think of this idea? :sigh: Maybe you have something wrong with the timing after all. ???

Slow progress I think. I've got her to running sorta on her own. Today I had to push start her let her warm up for a while. She still dies off when she goes below 1000 rpms, but this time she almost turns over by herself. So I use an external engine started to give her an extra kick and she got going with her warmed up engine. As far as for timing goes I just put her in the place that she original marked by the old owner and she does perfect. Right now I have her running and I’ll tell her go for about a half an hour. It seems that the more I run her and let her sit the easier it is to start. My only question is that she ideals about 1300-1400 on her own right now. Is this normal or should I play around with the ideal screw until. It seems to me that the more I run her and let her sit the ideal rpms just naturally get lower.

It'd be a good thing to check your timing anyway. Just to clear this possibility. Yesterday night I found a web site that proves my method to find the TDC. Finding TDC

The engine should be running smoother as it sits but try to set idle speed lower if it keeps running and then you'll be able to use the timing light. It must idle under 950 rpm for timing. :thumbsup:

Revolation my friends.



So there she is not wanting to go below 1000 rpms . She always dies when every i try to push her below it. WHY WHY WHY. FUEL? NOPE. Intake leak? nope. WHAT could it be?

Whats going on?

The answer is

" Hey dude you know when ever the car is turned off the tech set at 500 rpms."

thats right i was always off by 500 rpms. so when it would ideal great at 1200 rpms it was really at 700 rpms.

Thanks everyone for all your help. Now i can go and blow her up becuase i love her but i also hate her lol lol :tounge: . Once again thanks again