I had added pineapple racing inserts, and they worked fine. I loved them.



Then I had a racing beat header and presilencer installed. I had the guy weld the split air pipe receiver bung (or whatever...) after the presilencer, before the stock catback. I just managed to seal it properly (it took some clever bending...), but the ports still won't activate at any rpm. The vacuum hose is attached properly to the intake manifold.



The only thing I can see wrong is the larger rubber hose that provided fresh air to the cat (that connects at the check valve). It had kinks in it (new hose too soft). I didn't think that mattered, since I have no cats, and the airpump isn't attached.



They used to work, but now they don't. I kinda want these functioning properly, to utilize the inserts and all the hard work I did to get them there. What's the deal?

Baldy, if he didnt connect the backpressure pickup tube by welding a small flange, are you sure he didn't just weld the small tube shut by accident? Even with my RP cat back, RB pipe and presilencer, mine still open fine off backpressure. You could always remove the actuators and wire them open or like Mike said use the air pump to activate them.. not sure how he did that though.

How do you know if your actuators are working properly?

Baldy here's something i found looking around a while ago... and i'm planning on using it myself



i think this is what FC might be talking about



plus with a little tinkering you can hook up a air pressure sensor to that and make it

so you can control the air flow from the drivers seat.



Frank

Use paperclips on the rods, if they open the paperclip will be moved up the rod.



Otherwise, You'll know it. Without them working you don't get that push in power @ 4K RPM.

well, I look at them while twisting the throttle actuator thing...I've also had my wife rev the engine while I look



I've done this before, when they worked, and I could see them move, now they don't



and the welder did weld the small flange, then I bolted the pipe to it, and I know is wasn't welded shut, because I felt the air coming out before I reattached the tube



I don't want to wire them open, I really don't like that option





and I don't know what you're talking about

The ports will only open under load, revving the engine does not produce load, You have to be driving it. Put a hunk of grease on the bottom of the actuator rod, go for a spin then check after to see if it is smeared..

mine would open at 5k with stock exhuast while revving in nuetral so with out the back pressure of the stock exhuast id say youd have to take it to about 7 or more in nuetral.

the header is blocking the backpressure hole up at the block. If you take it off you'll see it. Also, look at your stock manifold or gasket. There'll be a mysterious hole in it, that's how the actuators get their backpressure. That hose going to the cat is a different thing. It won't do a thing for your actuators.

the 84-88's have a seperate hose for the actuators



mike

Mike, how do you re route the air pump to activate them and will it do it at the right rpm or just open them all the time? I have mine wired open right now and it does suck for driving around town at low rpm... temporary until I get my new cat installed.

I'll give that a shot.

Mike, how do you re route the air pump to activate them and will it do it at the right rpm or just open them all the time? I have mine wired open right now and it does suck for driving around town at low rpm... temporary until I get my new cat installed. [/quote]

you tap a fitting into the airpump hose, and you put a bleeder valve on it so that the ports open when you want em too



mike

hmmm, good idea.. I guess you could still remove your ACV then, run a header with no backpressure tube, whatever....

yup, you could do that



mike

uh i know i have said it before but i just ripped out the sleeves all together.

i honestly have not noticed a drop in performance at low rpm's. the car is still very driveable and it was a slight gain on the top end. ask vosko about it.

he has driven the car and can concur with the what i just said.

yup we simplified travis GXL as much as possible. it runs great ! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png

wired mine open also on my 89vert and only noticed a very small difference below 3300 rpm..after that it goes like a mutherfucker

did that...I didn't see any evidence that they had moved https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub..._DIR#>/sad.png



could the kinked rubber hose before the check valve have any affect on it?



I really want these to work



later today or tomorrow I'll try the paper clips instead of the grease, in case I was misinterpreting what I saw

yeah if the hose is kinked they might not work



mike

but he has no air pump apparently so it shouldnt have any effect if it's kinked, but I would think that having the air pump present will increase the pressure at the aux ports since you'll have exhaust pressure coming up the tube and air pressure coming in from the air pump... now thats gone, might have an effect on them opening.



might also want to check the check valve in the split air tube. Remove the hose from the lower intake manifold (the fat one that you say is kinked) and with the engine running, see if you have exhaust coming out of the end. If you do, the check valve is bad and the exhaust pressure is able to get past the check valve, which can also effect how much pressure the aux ports are getting.

I wasted all that time explaining how the aux ports work to you complete with photos and you still don't get it? https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683358.gif



what the hell

but he has no air pump apparently so it shouldnt have any effect if it's kinked, but I would think that having the air pump present will increase the pressure at the aux ports since you'll have exhaust pressure coming up the tube and air pressure coming in from the air pump... now thats gone, might have an effect on them opening.



might also want to check the check valve in the split air tube. Remove the hose from the lower intake manifold (the fat one that you say is kinked) and with the engine running, see if you have exhaust coming out of the end. If you do, the check valve is bad and the exhaust pressure is able to get past the check valve, which can also effect how much pressure the aux ports are getting. [/quote]

ok, that sounds plausible. I'll check that out.



I do still have the air pump on there, but it's coming off this weekend, assuming the parts arrive.

sorry i forgot to add a the link i was talking about



it involves the air pump though...



here's the link in case you leave the air pump on



http://home.earthlink.net/~burntoast/6port.html

I stuck paper clips on the shafts and drove to work this morning. When I got to work, they were gone.



I am still unsure whether or not they are working, so I'll try again later...