The problem

The car does not want to start, and when it does finally start, it backfires, runs really rough and as soon as u let off the gas, it dies.



The project

89 GXL with an S5 TII swap, running the TII tranny with the mazda trix driveshaft.



What Ive done

Just put in an 89 TII motor from a front clip, I am using the J-spec harness, I took the rat's nest out and put block off plates, the car has a walbro 255, 3 inch down pipe, FCD, koyo radiator with electric fan, greddy rs BOV kit, new NGK plugs, new 7mm wires



What I know so far

that im getting fuel to the fuel rail

that im getting spark on leading and trailing

that i have good compression over 100 psi on both front and rear

that the timing is right

Last edited by rotawhat : 10-20-07 at 10:39 PM. Reason: title change

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LOL, WUT!?!





Check that your injectors are wired right.

change out wiring harness and they are pretty much can only go in one place the wires dont stretch very far







update



its not the wireing harness

its not tps

its not MAF





any one have an idea im running out

imo the s5 NA harness works better...



but um could be a cracked TID, or other vacuum leak

I vote for vacuum leak. Check the block off plates. There are at least two vacuum ports on the back of the intake just above the bell housing on an S5. Also check the vacuum ports on the intake near the throttle sensor (kind of behind the alternator).

Good luck!

I am having the same problem except i have an s4 TII. i was coming off the freeway in cali going into AZ. i put her in "N" then she just died on me. i couldnt start her again. I could push start her but i would have to give it gas in order for it not to die. Can anyone possibly point me in the right direction.



p.s. the only mods i have is a hks intake and also sometimes it takes a few cranks for it to start( by a few i mean 10-20 times)

its not a vacume leak everthing caped, and the big 4 way is on tight, all blcok off palts have gaskets and the right stuff on them.



im thinking maby the ecu but i have never sean an ecu on an rx7 go bad

hey dude did you switch the stock guages with the jdm japanese guages, cause for some odd reason it makes a difference. lol

I have seen an ecu go bad in these cars, like my N351 and also my N370. i hurt to watch the smoke escape from the n370. But, it was just a little diode, one that they kinda dont make any more. Also, the engine harness issue is a definite probibility. I was using a Euro emission harness (passenger side, Maf, injectors, blah, etc.) It turned out that there were things under the hood getting voltage that shouldnt have been and things that needed voltage that werent getting any. Suffice to say, the car now runs to an extent but leaks some water. That issue is getting worked out though. Dont rule out the difference in harnesses yet even if the ecu and the plugs match up. The pins could still be wrong because for one, not all rx7's were/are the same. Some have different accessories but I dont have to go into details on what.



Im just saying, be warey of what your ECU is telling your harness to power and what to ground, make sense? Hope this helps,



-B.

well the n/a harness should work all i have to do is swap 2 wires (one if i dont care about a knock sencor), and the J speck harness should work fine because i bought a whole front clip and all the swap parts are from the same car.



i did come across this thred on rx7 club that is making me think that it may be the ecu

http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=51...t2+harness+pins

well im going to try the knight sport chip and see if it helps

Alright. I kind of had that problem with mine. It wouldn't want to idle at all unless I gave it gas. And I couldn't figure it out until nearly a year later (kind of sad I know) I had everyone look at the vaccum lines and everything, the wiring, the injectors, the turbo.. and FINALLY it was a boost leak.. it was on the 90 off the compressor housing to the FMIC piping. It was about a 3inch gash.. But I fixed that and the car ran great. So hopefully that can help you.

EDIT: Also. I forgot, when I car was still N/A.. the ECU took a ****.. and it would send the car into a limp mode, running on 1 rotor. The reason for that is when the Digital Oil Metering Pump goes bad on the S5's it starts to send a bad signal to the ECU and if you don't change the pump after a while, it will fry your ECU and your car will constantly run in this mode from the moment you start it. That's all my ideas though. Anything else I wouldn't really know. I hope these help. Sorry for the post again.. stupid editor thingy wasn't working.

i installed the knight sport chip and it is running a lot better, i did not think that the chip would work but its running right now. go figer