right now i'm just playing with idead but could it work and i not blow up on my first run? and how much boost could i run? also i guess i would need 3mm apex seals right?

You can do it, but you'll need both the 86-88 front and rear counterweights. You'll have to be careful with the tuning.

make that EXTREMELY careful. from reading stuff on the net, the most for a do it yourself thing is around 5 psi. But dont quote me on that. Ive also read that with very accurate tuning, ie every 10 or so rpms, it can be done. At least it hasd been tried. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

make that EXTREMELY careful. from reading stuff on the net, the most for a do it yourself thing is around 5 psi. But dont quote me on that. Ive also read that with very accurate tuning, ie every 10 or so rpms, it can be done. At least it hasd been tried. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png[/quote]

I wouldn't do it without a standalone ECU.

well at least it has been tried. does anyone know of a link to some info about trying it. or at least info on putting different rotors in different housings.

about the tuning i have heard of a very reputable shop around hear somewhere. i guess i'll have to go and find it.

N/A has 9.0:1 compression vs. 8.5:1 for the Turbo.



Doesn't the Turbo have larger 3mm Apex Seals vs. 2mm (Not sure about that).



I'd stick a J&S Knock Sensor on there as a SAFETY MEASURE.

All 86+ rotaries have 2 mm seals. The 86-88 NA motors are 9.4:1. 89-91 TII rotors are 9:1.

You sure about that? I read that the 89+ are 9.4:1 and the 86-88 are 9:1 which is part of the reason for their increase in power. The 89+ also has slightly lighter rotors and the intake has been changed.

So the 89-92 NA rotors are the highest compression rotors availible for the weight? I also thought the FD rotors were lighter than ANY FC rotors? Hmmmm how come the S5 NA rotors are not more highly coveted items then?

Better yet, Y not put S5 NA rotors in a S5 turbo engine?

I've heard of it being done, but I've never actually seen it in person.

I've heard of it being done, but I've never actually seen it in person.[/quote]

I want something powerful with good revability not to much turbo lag and reliable somthing that could be driven daily thats why i was thinking s4 rotors b/c .4 compression up i wouldn't have to run as much boost and with a smaller turbo i could have less turbo lag right?

all this is is to try and get the perfect 350+hp daily driver

I've heard of it being done, but I've never actually seen it in person.[/quote]

I want something powerful with good revability not to much turbo lag and reliable somthing that could be driven daily thats why i was thinking s4 rotors b/c .4 compression up i wouldn't have to run as much boost and with a smaller turbo i could have less turbo lag right?

all this is is to try and get the perfect 350+hp daily driver[/quote]

The stock 9.0 is pretty good. If you're after 350 HP you could go for a smaller turbo that would spool up very quickly. Some examples would be a To4B, 60-1 Hi-fi. If you're interested I have a TO4B with a manifold. All it needs is a bearing housing--about $85 from Turbonetics.

OK, here's my dream engine:

S5 street ported turbo block w/ 2 stroke oil pump

S5 NA 9.7 rotors

FD corner seals and water seals

Hurley 2mm 2pc seals, maybe 3mm

FD intake

haltech

t04

1600 cc secondaries



Don't know if it would work but then again it is a "dream"

so when you say that the stock 9.0 is pretty good do you mean that i could make 350+hp with that and a smaller turbo or that it is pretty good in general.



that's some dream Okie. what about fuel management (new pump fpr and stuph and maybe some bigger coil packs i know that the rx-7 packs ae already good but you can always go bigger



as for boosting an n/a in this months issue of SportCompactCar they turboed a toyota matrix which has a 11.5:1 compression ratio stock :o

i figure if they can do it so can I. :bigok:

You can make alot of power with the 9.0 . I wouldn't suggest 9.7 unless you're willing to accept some tuning mistakes. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...>/rolleyes.gif

All 89-91 TII's, as well as FD's, have 9.0. They're all able to make 400 HP easily with a moderately sized turbo. You can actually get close to 350 HP just by upgrading the stock TII turbo, but it will still require all of the other appropriate mods.

well lets start off by saying that you can run any compression ratio with a turbo. now that i said that the higher your compression and the more you boost the better your tuning has to be and the higher octane fuel you have to run, if not detonation will occur.



top fuel dragsters run 12:1 compression with 9lbs tp 12lbs of boost but they have reinforced internals and they run alcohol which cools the intake and combustion temps. since we have rotors we have only a few things we can do to reinforce the motor 1) of course is 3mm apex seals 2) is to pin the rotor housings which helps with high boost and detonation.



now all that being said i wouldn't recommend using high comp rotors with a turbo setup unless you got the money to be rebuilding the motor every few months. yeah it will make a bit more power and help you cut the lag down but if what you want is reliability then stick with the low comp rotors unless your a good tuner and you have dyno with a wide band oxygen sensor for rich and lean readings

so i take it that the best way to be a daily driven 350+ street demon is to do a TII conversion and upgrade: seals, turbo, fuel system, tranny, diff, etc...



but if i wanted to race i could put in high comp rotors... maybe when i when the lottery https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683785.gif

Many people have had great success with the 9.0 rotors. I've heard of people running the 9.7 rotors, but those are people who are VERY good at tuning.

hmmm. for fuel managment check my sig. I already have a big enough pump. The Haltech could take care of delivery along with the 1600 secondaries. FPR is a good idea, but implied. I plan on getting one for my 13BT. Of course, then you have stainless braided lines and and MSD6 ignition boxes. But like I said, that is just my dream "engine".



now that I think of it, a 20B conversion would probably be cheaper.

hmmm. for fuel managment check my sig. I already have a big enough pump. The Haltech could take care of delivery along with the 1600 secondaries. FPR is a good idea, but implied. I plan on getting one for my 13BT. Of course, then you have stainless braided lines and and MSD6 ignition boxes. But like I said, that is just my dream "engine".



now that I think of it, a 20B conversion would probably be cheaper.[/quote]

You don't HAVE to use SS braided lines to use an aftermarket regulator.

maybe you could use 9.2:1 rotors from an 84-85 13b, they are factory 3mm seals. the only downside is the rotor wieght, its like 12lbs vs 9.5? for the s4 and 9 for the s5,s6,s7,s8.



mike

i wonder if anyone makes aftermarket rotors? they could be lightweight and have different compression ratios (11.5:1 ack)

Racing Beat sells lightened rotors, but they're stock rotors with material removed.