I just had a rebuild done... and also a tune. The car cranks up horribly just like it was still blown.. It cranks and manages 300rpm... then slowly rises to 1100rpm. Some times it cranks to 300rpm then bounces over 300 up to 400 then drop back. When ever i crank the car i also have to put a lil gas. The car cranked fine before it blew, always cranked up to 1200rpm then drop to 1100rpm never failed to start.



The 2nd problem would be that the car's idle would drop to 300rpm when i would shift to neutral then press on the brakes to approach a red light. The idle would return to 800rpm right away though but still.. i never had these annoying problems with my fc before. My fc is a s4 with a complete 13-rew transplant running a Haltec ecu.



The only difference between when my engine was blown till now is that the car does not wobble when the idle drops. Other than that it still has those problems of a blown engine... Can anyone help me out? I can post some videos shortly on youtube if you wish.

ok guys, i started the car up today and it cranked to 1100rpm right away which was PERFECT, i then took the car for a 20 minute drive and then shut her down, when i cranked her up again it only cranked to 300rpm and bouncing off 300-300 rpm then slowly rising, is this a weak starter motor?

Stupid questions...



Who did the rebuild and are you following their recommended break in procedures?



Did you have it tuned right after your rebuild? You do realize that you should tune it AFTER the motor is broken in properly, and during the break in process you shouldnt be running your upgrades anywhere over the factory specs...

Is it idling at 300 rpm or when you are turning it over it's 300 rpm, i'm a little confused. Sounds like you are having issues starting it, correct?

The car turns over and starts idling at 300 then slowly rise to 1100, how ever in the first 10 seconds of start up the car is like choking, yes i have ran in the engine for 1500km which is more than needed and the car was tuned after the run in, i paid 650 fkn bucks for the bloody tune and 5 grand for the rebuild. dammit

did the shop that do your rebuild also tune the Haltech? If it was, I would take it back to them and have them look at it.

ok man, well the builder did a compression test and they were in the mid 90s like wtf? he said the battery was kinda low so the start motor only spun at 200rpm or some **** and the true reading would've been something like 104-106 both rear and front. Is this guy dodging me out? He also said the Haltec E6A or something doesn't have a cold start but i searched on the Haltec site and the manual said there is a cold start. I paid 650 for the dyno/tune plus having my exhaust re-webbed. <br clear="all">

You wouldnt happen to have a wideband O2 sensor with and AFR display? It would be interesting to see what your AFR's are doing during start up since you say its "choking". they are initially supposed to be little rich, but should lean out to stoich reasonably quick. What shop did your rebuild and tune, and did you research them before you took your car to them? What is this shops' policy with tuning? I mean... you paid this guy/place to rebuild your motor, install the Haltech system, and tune it to your underhood goodies. If I paid a shop to tune my car AND rebuild my engine, and it wouldnt start correctly... I would say it is their responsibility... especially if they were the ones who installed the Haltech and reinstalled the engine into the car. Regardless it sounds like your guy/shop didnt tune the cold start section at all because he says it doesn't exist.... who is wrong? Is the manufacturer or this guy who isnt being honest? Without any further firsthand info... he sounds dodgy.