Some of you may have seen pengaru's pics..well, we just finished up the same thing on Roadkill669's car. He had already had the tar removed from a while ago when we took the rear carpet, speakers, etc out. Now we finished removing the rear speaker towers. Drilled the spot welds out, welded in the holes, grinded down, primered then paint. All good again and looking 10Xs better..



Like peng, we're preparing the car for a suitable rollcage/strut bar setup..





First pic was right after taking the tower out, you can see the holes where the drill went through the spot welds...

Now, driver's side..during the drilling,lol...

Welding the holes caused by the drill shut...

I am going to have to do this soon too I guess, since I already everything from the rear of the car. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif

Hey rotaryman, could the holes been avoided if you really took your time on the drilling?

Everything welded up, and grinded down..primered...

To be honest, maybe..we took our time on this project, but the drill bit we used was extremely sharp and you have to apply a good amount of pressure to keep the bit from wondering..we did however not put holes in EVERY spot weld..if you are extremely cautious and apply the right pressure..I'd say you can avoid the holes...





In this pic, we decided to prep the main hatch area for a repaint anyways since the existing paint was uneven and had scratches/pits etc...

And finally, everything painted up..looking good again. Went ahead and applied some blue to the covers for the gas tank/filler neck for some extra color..

That's nice man. What kind of paint did you use, over the counter stuff???



C

One of the holes were actually caused by drilling. The rest were caused by me not drilling deep enough through the welds so when I hit it with my hammer and chisel, the chisel went right through the wheel well. Most of those were done by a friend who decided to try to take them off previously, didnt turn out to well.



The paint was just a gloss white spray paint. The primer was spary also. It laid down wonderfully surprisingly.

I wonder how a air chisel would work?



you could also have glued the holes shut

how is that a question?

So you drilled out the spot welds. All the way through? Why? The factory spot welds are done at a lower temp to keep the metal more ductile and softer which reduces the chances of the weld cracking. I took tons of cars apart at the seams for frame bench work. When using an air chisel the factory spot welds put up a major fight. The welded ones pop off with ease.



http://www.eastwoodco.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=...I1.x=33&I1.y=62



You would retain more strength by leaving the factory spot welds in place, using the above bit to add more weld points between the factory ones and then wirefeed the top layer with the hole to the bottom layer without.



My 2cents....take it for what its worth



Gregory

I thought they were already using a spot weld remover drill bit

ahhhhh you were removing the speaker towers. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683664.gif dont mind me I just had another one of my episodes. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683329.gif





Gregory

NO NO NO!!! I didnt drill through the welds except for one because I went to a new sharper bit and I miss judged my strength because I was used to the dull one. All of the holes were created by me just not caring because I could weld them up. I drilled through most of the weld and then took a flat head screwdriver or my chisel to it. Some I didnt go as deep as I thought so therefore I just ripped it off. Most of them turned out perfect and popped right off like drilling through a rivet.

it takes practice to not drill through sometimes, and even then, you sometimes dont know how thick or how many layers you have to work with