Baldy

Someone told me I should take out my booster, and mate them out of the car. I didn't, and it was relatively simple. I removed the old MC and the proportioning valve. I shoved the fluid reservoir on the new one, bench bled it*, and installed it. Bleeding all 4 brakes went really quick, there was hardly any air in the system. Hopefully no leak will show up. Previously, I would press the brake pedal, to it's limit, then I could slowly feel it moving closer to the floor, as fluid leaked out. Now I don't feel that. But the pedal still has a lot of travel before I feel pressure. Is that something I can adjust?



*which would not have been so simple if it didn't come with plugs in all the holes



The MC that was in my car I had bought from a guy, that he stripped from another car. It had an electrical connector that went straight into the bottom of it, but I saw no connection on my car for the plug. The new MC didn't have this. Is that for ABS (not on my car)?

j9fd3s

yeah the brake master isnt all that hard.



there is an adjustable pushrod between the pedal and the booster, if theres any play you should tighten it up

Baldy

thanks, I'll check it out

avoid

I have to change mine too its leaking like a **** only two blots right??

Baldy

there's 2 nuts that hold it against the booster



then something like 3 brake lines going in, which require the flared wrench



I also removed the proportioning valve, just to get it out of the way, which is like another 2 brake line fittings





question: should I have added grease to the pokey thing on the booster?

j9fd3s

nah i dont think it needs it, i never do

Baldy

ok, I just wiped it out with a cloth because it was a tad nasty, and it looked like someone had greased it

j9fd3s

old blake fluid? well if it has a weird squeak you know why

pengaru

yea the only 'hard' part is bench bleeding the master, or for the noobs, forgetting to bench bleed it then taking it off again to do it making a mess in the process.