Well right now I have my new rebuild in the car and I am trying to start it. If I use starting fluid it will just about start but not quite. I am wondering if I will have to tow it even though it has decent (for a fresh rebuild) compression?

dude 65 psi is low we rebuilt jeff's motor because it was 65pst on the front and 55 on the back rotor

It hasn't run yet, it is decent compresison for used rotor housings and new apex seals.

the compression should get better as it breaks in

65 is way low, 85 is usually the cut line. Hopefully it will go up when it breaks in. Have you tryed using some atf and crank it dry and playing with the egi fuse back and forth.

I thought 55 was what a never started rebuild was usually at, I swear.. Well push start it or tow it whatever. Then after its ran do a comp test with the throttle wide open...

meh? https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683894.gif

55 is what Kevin Landers told me. And should I have to jumper the fuel pump test plug? Or will the car fill up the fuel lines all by its self. And if I have to jumper that plug how long should I let the fuel pump run.

Put some 2 stroke oil in the chambers, and start it that way.



My last rebuild had 85 psi on both rotors with 0 miles. It started right up and idled fine. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

what the **** i never wrote taht!!!............ grrr 1revvin

My rebuild was hard to start after I flooded it. I found that by squirting three squirts of ATF per chamber through a spark plug hole with one of those autozone tranny filling squirt pumps, throttle 1/4 way open, and cranking it after I had blown out all the air / fuel from flooding would easily get it started. Any less than three squirts was not enough.



Once you estabilish temporary compression with enough ATF, it should fire up, providing you blew out all the air / fuel that was in beforehand. I always thought that you could flood the engine with too much ATF, but it turned out that more ATF was better than not enough. Three squirts worked while two didn't.

Use the jumper.

Should I have someone jumper it while I crank? Cuz right now I don't even smell fuel on the plugs and I have been trying to start it for a while.

Put the jumper on, you should feel fuel pulsations in the rubber feed line (and even hear the pump running) while the key is in the "ON" position. Less than a minute to pressurize the lines.



If you don't feel pulsations, check the AFM. If the gate's not operating properly, the pump will not run and no spark.



If still in doubt, buy the tester and check the pressure.

Well, I am now kinda lost. The I checked the fuel pump I jumpered it and you coudl hear the pump running, and when I loosend the main line at the pump gas dribbled out so I know the system is getting pressurized. But we ran the pump with the return line off and nothing came out of it. I check the secondary fuel rail and it is pressurized, so I assume that the primary rail is getting fuel as well. There is spark, took the leading plug out and cranked for a sec in the dark, and it was pretty bright. I shot some starting fluid into the TB and the car just about ran, but it seemed that once the starting fluid was gone there was no fuel making it into the motor. So I guess that I have to pull off the UIM and TB again to check the primary rails and see if ther is gas in there. And to cap it off I am getting code 03 for the water thermo sensor, I checked it and it was plugged in, so I grabbed another sensor and plugged it in and still had the code.

I am feeling like **** that this thing won't start, and that my winter beater won't run good enough to take to work. When **** goes bad, everything goes at once.

check your timing as well, you could have the timing off just enough, it will spark but the spark is coming at the wrong time.

timing makes such a huge difference in whether a new rebuild starts, but it also sounds like you have a fuel problem. redo your compression check and include at what rpm the engine was cranking at, this will give you a better idea of how well your seals are working,,, other than that...push starting is the ****!

yo... nick



mine actually had 70 in the front and 0 in the back.



65 is real shitty man. definately needs a rebuild.

Hey DJ what was the compression on your rebuild before you started it?

And I am now getting fuel, My haynes manual has the fuel lines backward, wither that or the hard lines on my car were bent a little bit. I am going to use ATF, just a little bit tired right now.

did the same exact thing when i swapped motors. frustrated me for days.

You missed the memo. Fresh rebuilds always have low compression. Thats the purpose of a break-in period.

This happened to me on on a rebuild a couple of months back. It would turn over and for get started and would quit after about 2 seconds. I would pull the plugs, squirt some oil into the chamber and get it started again for about 2 seconds. The part that pissed me off, was that the very first time it fired up, and then I set it off to check for leaks, and after that I could not get it running again. Finally, after getting pissed of with it, I simply reset the timing and the engine fired right up. Moral of the story, always check you timing, even if you don't think you need to.