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-   -   Rear SubFrame (https://www.nopistons.com/2nd-generation-specific-17/rear-subframe-5520/)

1Revvin7 09-20-2002 06:11 PM

Im still working on switching my old rear end for me new "used" TII rear end. Well i have the halfshafts down and almost out, just trying to get the brake discs out so i can get the bearings out, and while i was doing this i decided to get the diff down, i have everything unbolted except One side of the control arms, the link that is closest to the body of the car. Well im starting to strip those ******* bolts even with my 5 point opens ends( can't remember their real name off hand) but anyhow i can't get them off, so i was wondering how can i drop the subframe down more? i can only get it 2-3 inches before those control arms get in the way. I need like 3 more inches to get the differential mount bolts. Could i unbolt the struts to allow the control arms to drop down? if i did undue that bolt would the springs snap open?? What should i do?

turborotor 09-20-2002 06:55 PM

You don't need to take the control arms off to bring down the subframe.



Take the 2 big nut in the front of the sub frame off, unbolt the bottom of the sub frame link off (by differential off), off course the exhaust, disconncted half shafts if taking diff out, then with some support take the 2 main nuts at the rear of the diff to chassis part, if you need more room, take the shock off at the bottom of the arm, you'll need another person to help you or you'll snap off the brake line and kill yourself.

C



PS taking a engine out or tranny is an easier job than the rear subframe. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...O_DIR#>/11.gif

1Revvin7 09-20-2002 07:01 PM


Originally Posted by turborotor' date='Sep 20 2002, 07:55 PM
You don't need to take the control arms off to bring down the subframe.



Take the 2 big nut in the front of the sub frame off, unbolt the bottom of the sub frame link off (by differential off), off course the exhaust, disconncted half shafts if taking diff out, then with some support take the 2 main nuts at the rear of the diff to chassis part,

i've done all that, and it still doesn't come down more than 2 inches.

turborotor 09-20-2002 07:12 PM

It is basically 5 main nuts and it comes down on your feet.

pengaru 09-20-2002 08:16 PM

I did this when I broke my LSD, turborotor is right. You take off the two front nuts, remove the little bolts holding on the latches that go over the subframe mounts too. Then remove the two bolts that thread onto two vertical studs in the rear, they go through the rubber mounts on the diff housing. Then theres just the bolt on the subframe that goes through the sub-link. After that a bit of prying should make the assembly fall. For me to get everything back in right I found it much easier with wheels off and strut bolts removed so they were not suspending the subframe. However, I did this on jack stands, there was not far for everything to go, my brake lines were safe https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png



Here is a pic from service manual, just follow the steps in the numbered sequence shown in the illustration:

http://pengaru.com/~swivel/cars/rx-7/diff.jpg



good luck.

1Revvin7 09-21-2002 10:32 AM

another question, if i unbolt the shock it won't spring open will it? it shouldan't since its in the strut right? just making sure before i go DIE https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683785.gif

13BAce 09-21-2002 11:31 AM


Originally Posted by 1Revvin7' date='Sep 21 2002, 08:32 AM
another question, if i unbolt the shock it won't spring open will it? it shouldan't since its in the strut right? just making sure before i go DIE https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683785.gif

yeah, it will be fine, but you may want to unbolt your sway bar links to keep pressure off of them. Keep an eye on your brake lines.

1Revvin7 09-21-2002 12:44 PM

Thxs for the pics, Here is what i mean, all the ones in blue i have disconnected, the 2 in red are keeping my subframe up. Thxs for all the help i think im just going to have to mess around with it! But i cannot unbolt those 2 in red, they are stripping even with 5point open ends.

turborotor 09-21-2002 01:23 PM

You shouldn't be messing around with the red circle one. They adjust your toe+/- in the rear. U shouldn't have to take them off to remove the rear subframe. You shouldn't have to even take the lateral link bolt either like you have circled.

1Revvin7 09-21-2002 01:32 PM


Originally Posted by turborotor' date='Sep 21 2002, 02:23 PM
You shouldn't be messing around with the red circle one. They adjust your toe+/- in the rear. U shouldn't have to take them off to remove the rear subframe. You shouldn't have to even take the lateral link bolt either like you have circled.

:unsure: hmmmmmmmmmm :unsure: maybe its good i didn't get that toe thing off, hope change it 11.gif Well ok im gonna look into it.

turborotor 09-21-2002 01:33 PM

You did take the exhaust out from the y back, right?

pengaru 09-21-2002 02:45 PM

just remove the stuff that is mentioned in the shop manual picture, (indicated by numbers and lines) the things circled in red don't need to be removed. There's 5 main things that come undone, just the 4 large nuts, indicated by #7 and #5, and just that link bolt #4. With these removed and nothing supporting the subframe from below (wheels/tires on ground or exhaust parts etc) it should literally fall pretty far away from the car. The diff is pretty heavy so it will fall down kinda hard, be careful. Don't be underneathe it, especially if you are doing this on the ground with jackstands. I actually put a floor jack underneath the subframe in the center right under the diff housing area and let it down kindof slowly becuase I'm paranoid.



Please be careful :P It should be pretty simple to get out, just systematically check all the nuts/bolts and make sure there is nothing obstructing it from coming out.



If it starts to come out unevenly what can happen is the sleeves in those rubber mounts will get hung up on the threads of the studs, if you really get the edge of the sleeve worked into the threads it probably won't come out easily, the best thing to do here is just grab a floor jack and support the subframe from underneath and press it back up against the bottom of the car, the subframe/diff assembly is basically bound together via a large rubber block, so the center will 'sag' shortening the distance between the front and rear mounts, which can result in everything really grabbing onto those stud threads. Support it in the center near that rubber block on the diff housing (indicated by #6 in the illustration) with a floor jack so the whole assembly is level. Then lower it slowly with the floor jack making sure the mounts/sleeves are all sliding off the studs (where nuts #5 and #7 go) evenly, if you do this it should ensure that none get hung up on the threads and it should literally come completely off the studs quite easily, assuming you have that single link bolt removed (#4). Do not force it out! If you get hung up on those threads and start prying it out you might find yourself with some very fucked up threads when you go to reinstall the subframe/diff assembly.



Think of the assembly as two major parts, a diff and a subframe, connected with a rubber band. Not as a single solid assembly, care needs to be taken to keep both sides moving together when you lower it, and support should be provided in the center, where that rubber block/junction of the two major parts is. Especially on high mileage cars from the 80's, the rubber is pretty tired.



I should have taken pictures of this when I did it https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png



hope this helps.

1Revvin7 09-21-2002 04:43 PM


Originally Posted by turborotor' date='Sep 21 2002, 02:33 PM
You did take the exhaust out from the y back, right?

Yes.

Oh pengaru: I have all those bolts off that u mentioned, everyone i circled is off, and it only came down 2 inches. SO i have no clue why it doesn't come down. I have a huge jack supporting it too.

1Revvin7 09-21-2002 11:54 PM

I got it; I just had to pry at those rubber mounts on the subframe and diff. I have got one more Q for u guys though. U know how the diff has 3 bolts connecting it to the subframe. How do u get the lower rear bolt off? I can't get anything in there and they are on tight! :unsure:

pengaru 09-23-2002 05:55 PM


Originally Posted by 1Revvin7' date='Sep 22 2002, 05:54 AM
I got it; I just had to pry at those rubber mounts on the subframe and diff. I have got one more Q for u guys though. U know how the diff has 3 bolts connecting it to the subframe. How do u get the lower rear bolt off? I can't get anything in there and they are on tight! :unsure:

I think I got those off using my 'gear wrench' (tm or something) racheting wrenches, they make alot of those situations simpler. I think napa carries them, I got them off a matco or snapon truck though.

1Revvin7 09-24-2002 06:44 PM

I got it, i just finally took the subframe down so it was totally off those studs and got a big wrench in there and yanked it out, it was interesting to see both diffs, the TII one is way bigger/heavier and has bigger connections for the halfshafts, once again thxs for all the help.

--One more Q though: i need to get my brake discs off the get the bearings out so i call replace my halfshafts w/ the tII ones, they are stuck on really tight what should i do?-----

OKIERX-7 09-25-2002 03:35 AM


Originally Posted by 1Revvin7' date='Sep 24 2002, 06:44 PM
I got it, i just finally took the subframe down so it was totally off those studs and got a big wrench in there and yanked it out, it was interesting to see both diffs, the TII one is way bigger/heavier and has bigger connections for the halfshafts, once again thxs for all the help.

--One more Q though: i need to get my brake discs off the get the bearings out so i call replace my halfshafts w/ the tII ones, they are stuck on really tight what should i do?-----

IIRC, there are a couple of big phillps screws holding the rotors on. I used a big slotted screwdriver to get those out. Be careful though, those screws like to strip out easily. I think that will get your rotors loose. It's been awhile since I did my bearings....Could also be different on an S4?



I just did my differential mount tonight, AAARGH! What a PITA! I wish I had read this thread earlier : (

1Revvin7 09-25-2002 06:38 AM


Originally Posted by OKIERX-7' date='Sep 25 2002, 04:35 AM
[quote name='1Revvin7' date='Sep 24 2002, 06:44 PM']I got it, i just finally took the subframe down so it was totally off those studs and got a big wrench in there and yanked it out, it was interesting to see both diffs, the TII one is way bigger/heavier and has bigger connections for the halfshafts, once again thxs for all the help.

--One more Q though: i need to get my brake discs off the get the bearings out so i call replace my halfshafts w/ the tII ones, they are stuck on really tight what should i do?-----

IIRC, there are a couple of big phillps screws holding the rotors on. I used a big slotted screwdriver to get those out. Be careful though, those screws like to strip out easily. I think that will get your rotors loose. It's been awhile since I did my bearings....Could also be different on an S4?



I just did my differential mount tonight, AAARGH! What a PITA! I wish I had read this thread earlier : ([/quote]

I've gotten the screws out.

Its a fun project huh?


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