I noticed that the coolant hose goes through a metal piece that attaches to the BAC valve. Does the coolant need to warm the BAC valve? Can I just take it off and rerout the coolant hose straight from the block to the block. Thanks for the input.
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The bac is vac. I dont remember if there is a water line there. I would assume that you could route the water line somewhere else.
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The coolant goes to the TB to help warmup. If you choose to take it off re-route it back to the block up front like you were saying.
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if you do, reroute it, then you'll have to back the screw on the cold idle "pots" on the back side of the tb, or it'll idle at like 1500 rpm until the heat of the block warms it up.
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Thanks for the input, muchly appreciated https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif
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From rear plate to thermowax, thermowax to bac, from bac to thermostat housing.
you can cap or tap and plug the holes as well. The engine, as prevoiusly stated, is a cold blooded bitch without the fast idle/thermowax part of the TB. In the stock application the fast idle is set at around 77 degrees F, on the colder mornings you might have to keep your foot on the pedal a while or install a manual choke... |
or you could just back the screw out a little, not completely https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif
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Originally Posted by 89 Rag' date='Apr 26 2004, 08:04 PM
you can cap or tap and plug the holes as well.
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hmm my car has perfect factory idle of 750rpms and i have an aggresive bore to the tb, and absolutely everything not necessary removed (including things on the engine itself, not just the TB).
guess im doing something wrong huh? ****. kevin. |
so you guys know what my tb looks like while i STILL have perfect idle.
http://209.15.20.37/89t2/tbmod/aDSC00072_small.JPG http://209.15.20.37/89t2/tbmod/aDSC00071_small.JPG sorry for the hijack, just trying to prove that as long as everythings done right you dont need to accept a crappy idle as being "normal" kevin. |
nice job on that tb.. I dont have issues with mine either. There are two screws on the bac that hold that coolant line onto it, you can remove those and that metal piece will come off. I haven't had any probs with my bac not having coolant pass around it.
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Technics, you say you have a 750 idle yet you have removed the pots that Mazdadrifter was talking about. Or are these the parts you were talking about Mazdadrifter? Anyways, I removed these pots too, and my idle is at 1500rpm, I have tried setting the bac to adjust the rpm but can only achieve about 200rpm lower. What can I do to get a lower idle?
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Are you sure your throttle cable isn't over adjusted? I had a 2000 rpm idle for about an hour I couldn't figure out when I reinstalled a UIM.
Don't forget to check the simple things.. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png Could also be a vacuum leak? |
I didnt check the throttle cable, but will do again
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i wrote a really good list of everything to check over to make your idle perfect, search the forum (i normally dont say this but im on break from work) i'd say it was 3 months ago max, and search using my username so its more precise i go over everything you should set and check.
my TPS adjustment just loosened up on me so for the first time since my tb mod i dont have a perfect idle, ill be readjusting it this afternoon tho so its all good. kevin. |
Yeah, I managed to get it right, ended up fiddling with the tps ajustment, the idle adjustment on the back of the tb, and the bac valve. Idles at a pleasent 750rpm now https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png
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