I noticed that the coolant hose goes through a metal piece that attaches to the BAC valve. Does the coolant need to warm the BAC valve? Can I just take it off and rerout the coolant hose straight from the block to the block. Thanks for the input.

The bac is vac. I dont remember if there is a water line there. I would assume that you could route the water line somewhere else.

The coolant goes to the TB to help warmup. If you choose to take it off re-route it back to the block up front like you were saying.

if you do, reroute it, then you'll have to back the screw on the cold idle "pots" on the back side of the tb, or it'll idle at like 1500 rpm until the heat of the block warms it up.

Thanks for the input, muchly appreciated https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif

From rear plate to thermowax, thermowax to bac, from bac to thermostat housing.



you can cap or tap and plug the holes as well.



The engine, as prevoiusly stated, is a cold blooded bitch without the fast idle/thermowax part of the TB. In the stock application the fast idle is set at around 77 degrees F, on the colder mornings you might have to keep your foot on the pedal a while or install a manual choke...

or you could just back the screw out a little, not completely https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif

If you tap the holes and plug them, make sure you don't get any debris in the system, IE: Do it with it all apart.

hmm my car has perfect factory idle of 750rpms and i have an aggresive bore to the tb, and absolutely everything not necessary removed (including things on the engine itself, not just the TB).



guess im doing something wrong huh? ****.



kevin.

so you guys know what my tb looks like while i STILL have perfect idle.



http://209.15.20.37/89t2/tbmod/aDSC00072_small.JPG



http://209.15.20.37/89t2/tbmod/aDSC00071_small.JPG



sorry for the hijack, just trying to prove that as long as everythings done right you dont need to accept a crappy idle as being "normal"



kevin.