[quote name='gazellis' date='Mar 8 2004, 01:09 PM']



I removed the pump and exchanged the rack myself. It was tough but worth it. I like the way it drives and I do not have to **** around with the leaks anymore.





If you are going to do the exchange yourself, allow for good time. You have to remove the front anti-sway bar to get the rack off and even then it has to be fanagled out. Not tough just need time.


[/quote]



i have an 86 sitting in my garage and my one that i drive is a 91// both are na and the 91 is ps, the 86 is ms// can i swap the manual rack for the power one and make the 86 a ps and the 91 a manual?



also exactly how much am i looking at taking off my car to get at the rack on each?



i didnt see any other writeups on actually swapping the power one for a manual so i just want to know what im getting myself into before i start//



thanks,

Lothema

[quote name='surfmon' date='Mar 9 2004, 03:01 PM']I got a couple of manual racks laying around if you want to do the swap.



T


[/quote]



Do you still have one of those manual Racks? I'd be really happy to purchase for a reasonable price? Would need shipped to the St. Louis area. PM me with details if you have it. Thanks

me too, I know it's been like 2000 years but if you still have a manual rack i need one

There's this write up!



Using the 89+ power steering racks only, apparently. The older racks arent liveable on the street *apparently*.



http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=440198



or to skip directly to flying miata website:



http://flyinmiata.com/tech/depower.php?x=1

I'm actually using the faster S4 rack now and it's ok. I didn't reccomend it back then purely because I had never used it so could not say for sure whether it was indeed acceptable or not. It does take more effort, but it's worth it for the extra speed, well for me anyway.



Actually there's one additional mod that's well worth doing, when you've got the pinion shaft out, take the top bearing off, slide the valve assembly off and you'll expose a joint between the top and bottom of the shaft to allow them to move relative to each other, which is how the valving works (there's a spring). If you weld this up it eliminates slop and gives more direct steering.



See here: http://forum.teamfc3s.org/showthread.php?t=54847

wow insanely good write up to bad it's on another forum

Beautiful! Almost cant wait to get the car off the road to try this!