can someone clear this up for me... i called racing beat to order templates for my 1988 rx7 N/A....... SOrrow said that my car is a 6 port.

now i called RB to try to get a porting template for my car.. they said they dont have it... asked them why.. they said that there is no use for portingmy car because it is already a 6 port. my question is. where can i get a porting template to make my holes bigger..? what does everyone do here to port there 6 port engines? please clear this up for me. im pretty new to the rx7 scene.



thank you and have a nice day.

I read that in their catalog too. I would also like to know.... Maybe you can just modify the sleeves or something of that sort..so they will always be open. There is a faq on that somewhere....

well i got this from mazdatrix site... they didnt really explain that much.. but here it goes..



http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/port6p.htm

i need to port (make the holes bigger) onmy 6 port engine... cananyone direct me to the path of "fastness"

well mazda trix sells them for 52 bucks.. does anyone else get it cheaper somewhere?

there is not a whole lot of porting that can be done on the 5th and 6th ports, you can port the secondary intake ports on those same housings a bit... but really these housings are not great for porting, as the ports together are already pretty large anyways... but you can replace the intermediate housing with a turbo intermediate which has much larger primary ports than the 6 port motors' intermediate housing, and also has alot more material around the ports permitting far more porting than the 6 port intermediate housing too.



another factor is the rotor housings for the exhaust ports, the 6 port engine has diffusers in the exhaust port sleeves that kill flow and are difficult to grind out... you can get the turbo rotor housings which do not have these sleeves and can be easily ported. I'm not sure if you can just get turbo sleeves and put them in the 6 port rotor housings.... new rotor housings are usually a good idea anyways when doing a rebuild though, unless yours are practically perfect.

are you saying that i cant get a bridge port on my stock 86 6port motor?

ChainSawOnSteroids--no room for bridge





I was going to cut out the difusers..and open the exhast ports also..



Mazdatrix sells the template..If its not from RB or Mazdatrix..Im not sure I would get it anywhere else..

No room for bridge? Why do you say that? The ports are same distance from the rotor housing as on 4 port motors. There are other reasons theyre not normally bridgeported. For one, it makes the port open around the same time as a PP, but closes later. Not exactly good for a street car, not to mention to mods required to make the engine reliable at 10K+ rpm.



Are the mazdatrix templates $50 each??? Ill make you some templates for a lot less than that. And I do know porting. If you want pics, hit me up on AIM.

No room for bridge? Why do you say that? The ports are same distance from the rotor housing as on 4 port motors. There are other reasons theyre not normally bridgeported. For one, it makes the port open around the same time as a PP, but closes later. Not exactly good for a street car, not to mention to mods required to make the engine reliable at 10K+ rpm.



Are the mazdatrix templates $50 each??? Ill make you some templates for a lot less than that. And I do know porting. If you want pics, hit me up on AIM.[/quote]

cool

I think you can do anything you want, last I checked anyways.... Theres usually consequences to our actions though. I don't suggest bridge porting an 6 port, or any motor for that matter, just because I don't personally like the consequences. You're welcome to bridge port it if you like.

im gonna get a cheap j-spec, and bridge it myself,

just a fun engine, for fun

it's just an issue of reliability and longevity for me.

You cant go big if you could Bridge a 6 port..I personally think its a shitty set up..



@ mazdaspeed7 how much for the template..and do you have pics etc..?

rotary7s@tampabay.rr.com

$25 shipped for the intake. I dont have any pics of the templates b/c my master set doesnt exactly photograph well. I use plexiglass for my templates, but any of them I sell will be scribed into aluminum like the mazdatrix ones.



The port itself is about as large as you can go without compromising the casting around the port, and without dropping the corner seal. Judge Ito has complimented me on my port jobs before. Thats gotta be worth something.



If you want some pics, talk to me on AIM, af24179 is my sn

im kinda in that mood to pick up a 1st gen and bp the mother fucker

im not concerned with reliability as it will be n/a so i dont care, also it will just be a fun motor, so if it blows ill replace it with the reliable one, and do it all over again, lol its all in good fun, maybe a peripheral port? who knows

a pp would not be that reliabile to drive on the street same goes for a bp. i would drive a bp on the street though cause i wouldnt stop smiling. and smiling is a hard thing for me to do

Why isnt a PP reliable on the street? They dont have the side seal wear problems of a BP. The PP itself doesnt cause much wear on the apex seals, look at the stock exhaust port, its peripheral. And the higher rpm's dont induce that much extra wear.

hmmm thats something i never thought about(reliability on a pp) but keep in mind that a PP wont idle anything less than 2k rpm's which is unsuitable on the street (i dont care hahaha) so im getting a PP (once i finish my current project)

also to go PP you must upgrade your stock internals to race gears and stationary gears,bearings and so forth, but its defenately worth it,,,brapbrapbrapbrapbrap

Do you have any actual definitive references to back this statement up?



Wheres your peripheral ported motor power band? The stock internals are not going to be happy going to 10k, even performance internals arent going to be too happy, and I doubt any of the people in this thread who are talking about doing a peripheral port are interested in buying expensive apex seals that can use uprated springs to keep from floating > 8500 rpm.... what about the stationary gears, gotta get those hardened to keep from twisting up there too. Gotta remember clearancing the rotors also... since they start wobbling at that rpm .... ecccentric shaft flex and all, some people like the two piece eccentric shaft to help eliminate that problem, but thats a $1400 part alone.



Oh you've also gotta consider a scatter shield for safety revving that high, everything needs to be balanced.. sounds like a pain in the ass to me, and if you don't do it all, and just stick some big assed ports in the rotor housings and leave the rest stock, that motors gonna need a rebuild real soon, especially if you're driving around town in the power band all the time.... if you can even get up there with the stock apex seals and springs.



I've researched the subject a bunch, because I originally intended to build a 10k revving motor for street use. You start hitting alot of bottlenecks which need to be addressed to do it, reliably at least. I didnt even mention anything beyond the mechanical limitations in the 13b... what about fuel, spark, ecu, intake, exhaust...



maybe Judge Ito can chime in on this and set things straight, apparently he builds high revving motors.

I never said a PP was cheap. I said it was relieble, and drivable on the street. Aside from the 2K rpm idle if carbed, or 1500 rpm idle for fuel injection, its very drivable. It has more power everywhere than a side port n/a.



I have talked to CJ from the other forum, and he had a pineapple racing PP in his 90 GTU, and drive it on the street for a while. He said the drivability or reliability was no worse than a side port n/a.



I prefer to base my opinions on people who have first hand experience, rather than "he said, she said" bullshit. Thats how misinformation gets spread all over forums. And I hate seeing people say something like "well I heard from someone sho heard from someone that if I did this, my results will be this." And then they back it up, even when people with personal experience tell them thats not how it is.

BTW, stresses and wear are two different things. High rpm motors are stressed A LOT more. But the wear on the seals(witht he exception of side seals in a BP motor) is not disproportionally higher due to the higher rpms. The wear on the seals at 9000 rpm is roughly double what it would be at 4500 rpm. But the stresses on the motor at 9000 rpm are much higher than double.

:bigok: