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i've installed my toe steer eliminators. but when i had the car up i couldn't get the other wheel off so i had my friend step on the break, but the other wheel and break was already off and the piston went out on that side. i've tried turning clockwise and pushing in, it has gone some but cannot get it in anymore! is there something else to do?
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make sure the piston isn't "Cocked" to one side slightly now...i've seen that happen on FD brakes before.if it is straight... use a medium sized box end wrench and insert the box end into the piston top. (largest size that you can fit between the piston and the opposite side of the caliper. they work great for getting the right leverage to compress the pistons again. you'll have to do one piston at a time, so stick something between the other pistons and the caliper to prevent them from coming out any farther. Loosen the bleeder nipple a lil also so that the fluid can escape easier.
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Originally Posted by GreyGT-C' date='Jan 7 2005, 09:09 PM
make sure the piston isn't "Cocked" to one side slightly now...i've seen that happen on FD brakes before.if it is straight... use a medium sized box end wrench and insert the box end into the piston top. (largest size that you can fit between the piston and the opposite side of the caliper. they work great for getting the right leverage to compress the pistons again. you'll have to do one piston at a time, so stick something between the other pistons and the caliper to prevent them from coming out any farther. Loosen the bleeder nipple a lil also so that the fluid can escape easier.
so just bleeding the system some would work? everything it back together except this one side. the other side is all done |
yeah, you're gonna need to bleed them when you're finished... but i was under the impression that you can't get the pistons retracted on that side now.
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Originally Posted by GreyGT-C' date='Jan 7 2005, 09:14 PM
yeah, you're gonna need to bleed them when you're finished... but i was under the impression that you can't get the pistons retracted on that side now.
yeah, on my left side i cannot get the piston to go in far enough to get it over the pads |
the box-end wrench trick is the best thing i've seen for retracting them.... on an FD atleast. I'm not familiar with FC brakes.
FC owners....any body wanna chime in and correct anything that i've said? |
well i tried what you said to do. nothing happened except a drop of brake fluid came out.
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well, i took some needle nose plyers and tried turning the piston again...finally got it. now i'm gonna go for a test drive.
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loosen the bleed valve. Use a c-clamp to make the caliper go back in
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Originally Posted by rfreeman27' date='Jan 7 2005, 11:16 PM
doesnt work... i tried when i swapped the rotors on my vert, the needle nose pliers are the best thing to use if you dont have the actual tool, your supposed to turn them while pushing, clockwise i belive, i forgot which way |
yeah, hardest thing i've ever done
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Originally Posted by porsche4786' date='Jan 7 2005, 11:59 PM
yeah it's a bitch, i had blisters on my hand after just one damn caliper |
FC have the screw in type?.... the FD rears are that way. But not the fronts.
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in the future just buy the piston tool for your ratchet. they only cost like 5 bucks
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Originally Posted by Shane.Trammell' date='Jan 8 2005, 09:25 AM
in the future just buy the piston tool for your ratchet. they only cost like 5 bucks
WHAT?!?!?! THERE'S A TOOL FOR 5 BUCKS???? i could have gone to the store and bought one and had been done about an hour earlier. |
yeah its a cube that has different sides for different calipers. you put it on the ratchet and turn and push.
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Originally Posted by Shane.Trammell' date='Jan 8 2005, 11:00 AM
yeah its a cube that has different sides for different calipers. you put it on the ratchet and turn and push.
damnit! someone told me about there being a tool but they never said how cheap it was! i could have saved my hands lots of trouble https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683358.gif |
yea that tool is a godsend.
on my 4-pots up front i can push them in easily, dont even use a clamp...but thats only cause im used to doing stupid brakes. anyway, you really should replace that caliper, popping it out like that could fuckup the internal seals and possibly the piston boot. This will eventually cause an internal caliper leak resulting in a "mushy" pedal or not having full use of that rear brake completely. Just kep an eye on it and watch to make sure the rear brakes both wear relatively similarly. It doesnt always happen but the possibility is there. kevin. |
Originally Posted by rfreeman27' date='Jan 8 2005, 02:16 AM
In all honesty, Ithink you need to read the service manual... Every single question that you have asked in this forum is in the service manual. The service manual is free, why don't you read it? This won't be the last time you need to fix your 15+ year old car. |
Originally Posted by Cheers!' date='Jan 8 2005, 04:09 PM
The service manual is free, why don't you read it? This won't be the last time you need to fix your 15+ year old car.
https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...withstupid.gif |
Originally Posted by Cheers!' date='Jan 8 2005, 04:09 PM
you can' tdo that on a rear caliper. YOu need to use a pair of needle nose pilers and rotate the piston back in... you should reallly use the a brake tool. Because if those pilers slip you damnage the seal and you are screwed.
In all honesty, Ithink you need to read the service manual... Every single question that you have asked in this forum is in the service manual. The service manual is free, why don't you read it? This won't be the last time you need to fix your 15+ year old car. Because the way it tells me in my manual is to use pliars and I was wondering if there was a different way. I couldn't get the pliar thing to work at first, then after trying a few other things then that it worked ok. |
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