NoPistons -Mazda Rx7 & Rx8 Rotary Forum

Let me get the disclamer out of the way here...This metod of molding in your a-piller gauge pod will NOT be of show car quality. What I mean is the autometer unit has a different texture then the stock pillar, as well as the finished body filler will be smooth. But if you are like me and don't give a rat's butt about that kind of thing, but HATE the look of the pod just slapped on there, read on. \

You are going to need a few things...

1 Bondo "Complete body repair kit" includes bondo, hardener cream, filler puddy, sand paper, primer paint, spreader, and some distructions.

1 "cheese grader" looks like the child of a wood plane and a cheese grader

1 A-pillar, I prefer the use of a junk yard part because I may want to go back to stock. Plus you are going to need to paint the thing, so color doesn't matter.

1 roll of masking tape (blue or white)

Dremel tool, sharp knife, etc (to cut the pillar)

1 tube of plastic model cement. super-glue doesn't work well

1 2'x2' piece of cardboard, or plywood. Something to mix your bondo on.

1 can of spray paint to match your interior. I used "testors model master" in "navy gunship gray" to match my gray S4 interior. If you find a better match, let me know.

First you want to take that nasty junk yard part and scrub it down good with some dish soap. This will remove all the oil, grime, and greese from the part and leave a good contact area for the glue. While you are wet, wash the pod, and your hands to get all left over oils off.

Resisting the urge to huff the model cement put a fair amount on the contact surfaces of the pod, and glue the pod to the pillar. Holding it in place with the masking tape till it's good and stuck. Now put the pillar on the work bench and go watch some TV, check your email, what ever. Come back in about 1hr, allowing the cement time to cure.

After the glue is set you are going to need to find a way to cut the pillar behind the pod. I used my dremel tool, but you can use a sharp knife (just takes FOREVER) The cuts don't need to be pretty, just enough to run your wires, and lines through. Make sure you can get to the back of BOTH gauges with your hole. Also make sure you don't cut too far to the sides. Just about 1"x4" is perfect. Once the hole is cut you can remove the tape and admire your work so far. The cut will be ugly, but who is going to see it? WASH it again with soap, make sure all the dust is off, as well as the oils from your hands. Then dry it with a lint free towl, I use my trusty brawny paper towels.

Then you are going to need to play with some bondo. Fallow the instructions that came with the kit. Make sure you mix completely, and it should be a peach/pink color. Apply it in small layers, building up till it's covering the area you want to have the molding. then when the bondo is sorta set, you need to take the cheese grader and form it to the shape you want. Once that is done, take the most open grit paper, and sand the part, then work your way to the finest grit, till it's smooth, and the transisions are nice. WAST it again, to get the dust off....again. This will expose some little pocks in the filler. Take the filler puddy and put it in the holes, sanding off the excess after it's cured. WASH it again, dry, and primer the part as a whole.

Take the model paint you have and using LIGHT even coats, paint it with 4-5 LIGHT coats... Did I say *LIGHT* coats of paint?

From there just install the gauges and the pillar, and go have a root-beer. For those with the $$$ Greddy and HK$ gauges fit IF you trim a bit out of the hole.

There you have it, if you have any further questions, please ask away.