S5, streetport, aftermarket oil lines, etc.



I think the oil cooler may be acting up, does this sound right, or could it be something else?

wheres the temp sender?

There is a thermo valve in the intercooler that opens when it gets to a certain temp. If the oil temp is below X degrees (i can't remember off the top of my head) then it bypasses the oil cooler (ie warm up and cold weather). If this thermovalve fails your oil cooler is never used and you may be getting high oil temps because of that. The fsm shows a way of checking this valve. I don't ahve the FSM and it's in the cold garage...

right underneath the filter, in the adapter plate







it involves yanking the valve out and some boiling water, i think, i'll have to look again, I loaned the manual to the upholstery shop, after they did my top a slew of vert rx-7's showed up for new tops too.

yeah i would look at or replace that valve too

i mean oilcooler... i'm on crack sorry

The thermo valve on the oil cooler opens at 140 degrees.



You should take your oil cooler off and have it professionally cleaned(if it hasnt been recently). That would be my first guess.

I had the oil cooler cleaned, the valve is shot, it doesn't open at any temp. I was thinking of eliminating the valve completly and just putting a plug in the cooler, hence oil will constatly run through the cooler. Will this cause more harm, or none at all?

[quote name='89 Rag' date='Mar 19 2005, 05:28 PM']I had the oil cooler cleaned, the valve is shot, it doesn't open at any temp. I was thinking of eliminating the valve completly and just putting a plug in the cooler, hence oil will constatly run through the cooler. Will this cause more harm, or none at all?


[/quote]



The only real downside is it will take the car longer to get to optimal oil temps. Hearing your experience makes me want to check my oil temps. Are you running the oil filter block with a port for a oil temp guage?

[quote name='cymfc3s' date='Mar 19 2005, 05:56 PM']The only real downside is it will take the car longer to get to optimal oil temps. Hearing your experience makes me want to check my oil temps. Are you running the oil filter block with a port for a oil temp guage?


[/quote]





Yes, ports for both oil temp and oil pressure, the relief valve is shimmed too so under load it is pushing through at a pretty good clip. Now that I think about it more, a plug alone will not make the oil flow through the cooler constantly, unless it was long enough to close the opening where the check valve used to rest in the open position, and it would have to be sealed in some manner...

What I did was tap the opening between the inlet and outlet side of the oil cooler, and put a bolt in there, with plenty of lock-tite.



The car takes a lot longer to fully warm up when its really cold outside, but I just run a thinner weight oil in the winter to make up for the colder oil running through the engine.

I had my cooler professionally cleaned and serviced by a FAA certified cooler shop. They c;eaned and tested the cooler including the valve. If the shop you used did not do a recirculating hot flush, then how did they get the cleaning fluid and crud out of the cooler? hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

8871-14-810 is the part number for the pellet, banzai and i pay $45 for it, we have to eat so i can sell it for $50....

[quote name='mazdaspeed7' date='Mar 20 2005, 01:24 AM']What I did was tap the opening between the inlet and outlet side of the oil cooler, and put a bolt in there, with plenty of lock-tite.



The car takes a lot longer to fully warm up when its really cold outside, but I just run a thinner weight oil in the winter to make up for the colder oil running through the engine.


[/quote]



From the inlet side right? so you tapped aluminium, and you used a steel machine screw w/ loctite and still used a plug in place of the valve assembly, or just left the assembly there? Do you think putting a nut on the other end of the machine screw would offer a little more strength? I don't drive it in the winter, so ambient temp will be 75+, and I never jump in it and go, it will have 15-20 minutes to warm up some



[quote name='banzaitoyota' date='Mar 20 2005, 05:29 AM']I had my cooler professionally cleaned and serviced by a FAA certified cooler shop. They c;eaned and tested the cooler including the valve. If the shop you used did not do a recirculating hot flush, then how did they get the cleaning fluid and crud out of the cooler? hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm


[/quote]



I don't think the cleaning process worked, if the valve didn't open. The bypass area is as clean as a whistle, but the cooler rows are probably still contaminated





[quote name='j9fd3s' date='Mar 20 2005, 07:49 AM']8871-14-810 is the part number for the pellet, banzai and i pay $45 for it, we have to eat so i can sell it for $50....


[/quote]



I haven't deceided which way to go yet but I will keep this in mind, thanks

[quote name='89 Rag' date='Mar 20 2005, 07:05 PM']From the inlet side right? so you tapped aluminium, and you used a steel machine screw w/ loctite and still used a plug in place of the valve assembly, or just left the assembly there? Do you think putting a nut on the other end of the machine screw would offer a little more strength? I don't drive it in the winter, so ambient temp will be 75+, and I never jump in it and go, it will have 15-20 minutes to warm up some

I don't think the cleaning process worked, if the valve didn't open. The bypass area is as clean as a whistle, but the cooler rows are probably still contaminated

I haven't deceided which way to go yet but I will keep this in mind, thanks


[/quote]





I guess I should have been more clear. When you take out the thermal valve, there is a bypass hole in the divider between the sections of the drivers side end tank. Its where the oil flows through when the valve isnt blocking the hole. You can only get to one side of it, through the bolt you took out to get the thermal valve out. I tapped that bypass hole, and put in a bolt. You really need to take the valve out and look at it to understand. Its kinda hard to explain if you dont know what youre looking at, but once you look at it, its very clear.

[quote name='mazdaspeed7' date='Mar 20 2005, 03:37 PM']I guess I should have been more clear. When you take out the thermal valve, there is a bypass hole in the divider between the sections of the drivers side end tank. Its where the oil flows through when the valve isnt blocking the hole. You can only get to one side of it, through the bolt you took out to get the thermal valve out. I tapped that bypass hole, and put in a bolt. You really need to take the valve out and look at it to understand. Its kinda hard to explain if you dont know what youre looking at, but once you look at it, its very clear.


[/quote]



I assumed you tapped it from the inlet side, with the hose/fitting removed you see the other side of the bypass area. When I measured into the inlet hole and into the thermal valve hole, the material in between is thicker than I imagined.

I don't like the idea of putting a steel bolt into an aluminum part, especially from the bottom side, odds are it can/will fall out, aluminum will expand faster, and the oil may not reach optimum temp at all. Besides, the new part is the most cost effective way of doing it.



J9fd3s: PM sent