I have a slow oil leak coming from the oil pan, I am not sure if it gets worse during operation because it hasn't run yet. The bolt that screws into the oil pan for the engine mount is missing, is this the cause of the leak? It seems to drip from there, anybody have this experience? Just want to make sure before I run to the junkyard just for a bolt. Thanks

I don't think that bolt would cause a leak.... Almost all oil pans leak, they need to be like tripple sealed

it could be the bolt, it goes thru the pan



mike

It probably needs a pan gasket too.Might need to put some RTV sealant on it.That'll stop those leaks quickly. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

don't use the stock gaskets, they're crap. To make the job easier use a 10 mm universal on the front bolts by the sway bar. I like the mazda RTV silicone, but it's expensive. You could use Hylomar. If that bolt is missing, then it will leak through. When you put the bolts back in, add a little sealant to the bolt threads. and remember to cross tighten the bolts, for even distribution of TQ. Mine hasn't leak in 4 months, since i've added the new pan.

why sealant on bolt threads?

i follow the manual for not using the gasket



mike

I say again a product like Perfect Seal on the bolts should be essential

and is such cheap insurance to safeguard against leaks. Its meant to go on the threads of bolts.

please explain why this will help in any way shape or form?





there's no oil on the other side of the bolts, they are only present to keep the oil pan on the block, if oil is getting to your bolts via the mating surface among the oil pan and block, you have an oil leak, put all the sealant on the threads you want, it's pointless in my opinion, and will only make the threads worse. My front cover had fucked up threads and I found at least 2 different colors of sealant stuck in the threads from the previous owner, ever wonder what that extra **** in the threads will do to your ability to measure torque or why it's important to make sure threads are clean and in some cases even oiled to make sure you can get an accurate reading from the torque wrench?



the bead of sealant should be on the inner area of the mating surface, ahead of any bolts wrt the oils path for seepage.



most important is even torque of the bolts, clean mating surfaces, and a nice even bead of silicone, too much makes a mess too little you won't have a seal.



Don't **** with the silicone that squeezes out, in hopes of cleaning up, especially after it's tacky or fully dried. You'll just cause a leak by disturbing the sealant that is in the junction.



you clean up threads and chase through holes, quite the opposite of putting silicone on & in them!

:rant:

I didnt say to put silicone on the threads, I said a product like Perfect seal.

I guess Perfect seal and other products like it are compleatly pointless and have existed for the last 50-60 years or so for the same handfull of people who use it even though it serves no purpose?



Of course if threads are damaged it wont help.

There are quite a few procedures when building engines that call for a thread sealing product like perfect seal to be used on threads, head bolts for one.



A coating on the threads with the right product, not silicone, is that last bit

of insurance if something does happen to seep past the gasket or that bead of silicone used instead of a gasket.