brett vance

The rotory is a new area for me. Now that I'm driving the car for the first time since owning it, Im finding out that I hardly know anything of what I should. I have from the top of my head 3 questions.



1. The new engine is stage one street port running no cat and leaky stock exhoust.

A.) What should I expect the gas miliage to reflect?

B.) Should the gas miliage increase over time?

( Not worried about the money costs, just to know if Im running ok.)

C.) engine is running rich. Should I expect this to change or remain as is.

2. when I just settle into a parking lot after running the car it Idles at between 1grand and 1.5 grand. When Im at a stop on road I find it at 875 (where it should be ). Is this grounds for an adustment or leave it alone.



3. my silly idiot lights kind of work when they want to, and when it does work it's not on when it should be. For instints: Im well down the road with my seatbelt on when the light will flash saying "belts". Never saw more than one light up at a time. Most common two are "brake" and "belts".

Tessai

Is the car otherwise stock asside from the streetport? In other words, do you have any sort of fuel control?



1.

A) Expect anywhere from 16-20mpg city, 20-24 highway. Could be lower.

B) Most likely not, however you can tune it a bit more lean to make it run better, and save a bit on gas. Also remember to change your spark plugs often. I change mine every other oil change, which may be a bit excessive, but oh well.

C) The cars run rich from the factory. You can get aftermarket fuel controllers, such as the Apex'i SAFC-II.



2.

Little more information needed... is it idling high when in neutral, and idling fine in gear? Or is it idling high when first started, but idles fine when warmed up?



3.

Pull out the idiot cluster and re-solder the connections in the back .

brett vance

I'll start backward and work my way up the list to 1.



knowing how it could be the most important thing when you least expect it, I'm definately resodering the idiot cluster.



I know about the start up always being high and then dropping. That doesn't seem to be the problem. The only time the idle entered into the ideal 800 area was while stopped with the brake being the only thing depressed, and shifter nuetral( this so far was a one time occurance) . When car was warm it remained high idle. Other than that one time with the 800, the lowest I've seen the Idle get was hovering just above the 1000 mark. I didn't get to drive it at all to day. We had not so good weather. The next 5 days are supposed to be alright.



and #1.

A) Ok I here you on this. I hope I never have to too much city driving. Im more of a country guy myself. bought the car to enjoy open road drives (have a little fun) and auto cross if I ever get the nerve to try.

B) when you said you can tune it was it by getting an aftermarket fuel controller like the one you told of in C or something seperate that co-exists with C

brett vance

forgot to say that street port was only thing done to engine.

RevRex-7

Changing the spark plugs that often is necessary?



'='

7mech

RevRex-7: It's not necessary to change them that often but it helps to keep things running right.



Brett: It sounds like you might have a small vacuum leak which is causing the car to idle higher than normal. I say this becuase the brakes use vacuum to assist them in stopping the car and holding it where it stands. Try searching for any leaks around the manifold. You can spray some soapy water in the area and look to see if it bubbles.



Hope this helps.

brett vance

I haven't looked yet but: Say there is a small leak but I can't find it. Will I be looking at huge problems developing shortly there after? or do I have some time? Including today I have 5 days which are supposed to be great for driving. I have a temp inspect on her now, I have to go right past the shop where she was fixed to get the inspection (he don't do em, but he got a guy) so I got to stop in and have the guy I be leaking a little clutch fluid.

Tessai

Not really, though our spark plugs do foul more quickly than our piston counterparts, due to the oil we burn. I change mine every other oil change because:



1) It is often enough that they don't get fouled enough to cause extremely poor performance

2) Is easy to remember. I base most of my maintenance around oil changes, so that I can remember that when I do one, I do the other. If I can't remember if I changed the plugs last time or not, I change them anyway. Plugs aren't that expensive and a breeze to change out.

3) Improves gas mileage and adds horsepower! Well, at least, I can feel a slight difference when I change out fouled plugs, and I measure a difference in gas mileage... One time I let the plugs slide for a few changes, noticed crappy gas mileage. Changed the plugs and almost got a full 50 miles more to a tank!

7mech

Brett: a small vacuum leak shouldn't cause any major issues, but it would be a good thing to get fixed. If you can't find it right away I wouldn't worry too much about it. These types of thing tend to show themselves sooner or later.

j9fd3s

no, normal driving they should last 30,000 miles. the harder you drive it the more often they need to be changed however