For a 1990 vert.
I need to find somewhere to get the wiring that goes to the MOP. The wiring has one connector that goes to the MOP, then it goes up the front of the engine and connects to the main harness near the alternator. This length of wiring on my car has damaged connectors, and the wiring itself is starting to develop cracks from age. I dont know where to go to get a replacement for this length of wiring with the connectors. I'd prefer to get a completely new replacement for it so I dont have any further problems from this wiring. Without correcting this issue my 1990 vert goes into limp home mode, at random. I've confirmed with a multimeter that the MOP is good and I'm loosing current in this length of wire intermittently. |
you might have to splice and build it yourself
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What exactly is MOP?
tried a search but no such luck |
MOP = metering oil pump, most people refer to it as the OMP = oil metering pump
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a lot of people i know call it a OMP not a MOP
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I just call it what the FSM calls it. I would just do the wiring myself, but I can't find the right wiring connectors, and all the RX7's in the junkyards down here already have the wiring and engines removed... FML
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If I can't find what I need I'll just have to get the Rtek mod and eliminate the damned thing entirely. But If I'm dishing out cash for that I'll probably just wait till I can get the stage 2 Rtek...
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ya premix lol
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I had to purchase a new engine harness because the idiots I bought the car from hacked the harness apart. I purchased it from a guy online and it worked beautifully. It was about 350 bucks for mine because it's a TII but should be extremely less for a NA if your interested
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The problem with that being I dont need the engine harness.
there are six wires, with a six pin connector on each end (it connects the MOP to the engine harness). I can remove the wiring from the car by cutting a ziptie (holding it in place, and away from the belts), and unhooking the connectors from the MOP and wiring harness. Its a two maybe three foot length of wiring. It takes like two minutes to remove it. I can get some pictures if that would help. If I have to replace the entire harness (which I wouldn't use) to get this small length of wiring, it would be like having the adapter wiring for the radio mess up and having to replace the entire chassis harness to get the stock to aftermarket wiring adapter for the radio. now on the other hand, if I provide pictures installed, and unistalled with measurements and they can make me this section of wiring, I'd be very interested in that. |
If you are unable to run some wire and put terminals on yourself it sounds like you should just go with a new harness. Cut and shrink wrap new lengths of wire with some terminals. If you need the connector too I guess a junkyard but good luck. I cut and soldered every wire in the engine harness to lengthen it so I could use a JDM harness on a USD car. After all that work I decided it was worth a bit of money to make it right and have it done. Might be impossible to get it seperate.
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Well I just took pics of the connectors and know the length of wire. So if anyone here does harnesses maybe they can hook me up on this 2.5-3' length of wire. Will post pics soon.
Down here the first thing to go on junkyard cars is the engine, and they never leave that stupid wire... |
BTW the exact length connector to connector is 2'6". I replaced the wire between the connectors and its the lower connector thats the problem :/
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de-pin the connector and find something that looks like it and repin it after you are done
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I have the wiring harness from my '90 vert. I'll see if I can find what you need on it. Did you already post a pic? (most times I can't see pics at work) If not, do that, so I can find the exact thing you need.
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Ill post pics tonight. Ty. Also let me know if you two the auxilliary port sleeve arms laying around. The ones. That go in the motor that the actuators move.
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4 Attachment(s)
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The female connector at the top is the problem one. I would try depinning it but I dont know how. I only work with bare wires.
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smalll flat head in the back should take them out might take a bit of work but it works without breaking the clip
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I'll look for it tonight.
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Alright, I'm gonna try messing with it to get it working again for now.
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I found a connector that looks just like that one, but I'm pretty sure it goes to the TPS (if not, it's some type of sensor on the throttle linkage). Anyone know if that would work?
I have the complete S5 vert harness, but I can't find a different connector on it that looks like that. I'm not sure which part of the harness would have the OMP connector, and I can't find the actual OMP to compare it to. |
That part of the wiring connects right behind the alt. I can take a pic with it installed
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So I think I found the connector. Its also used for the idle control on some toyotas.
http://store.driftmotion.com/static/...lconnector.php |
Probably going to order this weekend. Looks like its time for some experimentation. Figure if it doesn't fit I'll ebay it, being as it fits 1jz 2jz and a few other motors.
Also contacting a company I found out about that supplies wiring connectors and full harnesses. Sent them a picture of it, figure I'll see what they quote me for it. |
Fixed for now, the problem connector has been removed from the equation completely.
I've got small connectors out of a Scosche audio speaker terminal kit (STK1) where that connector was. I soldered in some 16ga wire (stock is 18) to the upper connecter that attaches near the alt, and simply crimped the audio connectors on the 16ga for now to attach it to the MOP. I was hoping for the peace of mind of the stock connector, and not having the possibility of wiring it up wrong when I eventually need to disconnect it. But thats gonna wait till I get the proper connectors for both ends. I'm going to make the entire length of wiring including the connectors so I dont have to screw with my old connectors. The lower one is damaged anyway. Lets see if I can finally let my MOP issue threads die... |
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