yesterday car decided to blow shitloads of smoke when I started it after sitting over night (ran fine night before) then wouldnt even idle well, really rough. After messing around with it a little bit it wouldnt even start. Hooked inductive timing light up to 2nd rotor wires and no energy, 1st rotor has spark on L and T,

checked wires and theyre fine (magnecore 10mm replacements should be here any day now in any case)... I pulled the coils out of an 86 NA in a junkyard today to try them out, same situation as mine. Does anyone know of anything that can cause the computer to not fire on 2nd rotor both L/T ? Is it common? Anything like cold solder points or something that can cause it to happen? I've been considering an E6K installation, this might be the decision maker. Any help appreciated, it's my daily driver so it would be great if I could just get it running...

maybe crank angle sensor. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/BURNOUT.gif

how would one test it? I did check the resistance on the left and right sides of the plug and both were ~200k ohms, is there another test?



Also removed the inspection plate to see if anything was obviously wrong, everything was visually in check.



thanks.

oh, and btw, I've already tried checking for codes with the diagnostic connector/LED, no dice. :(

Is everything grounded properly?

you tried swapping igniters too

AFAIK everything is grounded properly, I have not performed an exhaustive check, but I did try connecting the 1st rotor wires to the 2nd rotor plugs just to see if those plugs were getting grounded (with my inductive timing light on the wires) and they fired fine on the 2nd rotor, but with the 2nd rotor wires on the 2nd rotor no spark. I tried coil/ignitors i pulled from the junkyard and the exact same thing happened. It also doesnt seem likely that both leading and trailing sets would fail together on the 2nd rotor at the same time... and it's the same with the ones from the junkyard and the originals... How exactly is the coil/ignitor 'told' to fire? Is there an easy way to check if the wires leading to the coils are telling them to fire on the 2nd rotor to identify if it's a wiring problem or ecu?

thanks again...

check wiring and connectors- you had right resistance between g1-g2 and ne1-ne2 connectors at crank angle sensor.it signals the coils[impulse]when to fire. :yinyang:

If everything is working and hooked up properly then it's possible that it could be the ECU. Besides that the only thing I can think of is the crank angle sensor.

try disconnecting battery or another battery. ecu not that high unless your running haltech or something. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/BURNOUT.gif

my answer to your no spark problem would be your afm air flow meter it sits under the airbox make sure it is connected if not swap one out of a wrecking yard i payed 5$ bucks for one and it solved half my problems

it can do that?

yeh mine was shot and it shut off the fuel i got another afm plugged it in and it ran a little better but how good can a 6port run with the actuators rusted shut huh found that out when i pulled the engine

he is getting no spark

Pull the plug wire off a bit. My Inductive light doesn't pickup the Mazda ignitors very well (It's a Craftsman light too).

Ok, I've installed the magnecor 10mm wires just to eliminate the possibility of it being the wires... it starts sometimes but is definately running on only one rotor, blows smoke, idles barely for a few seconds then dies (idling around like 350rpm)... I just remembered something though that happened before which I never identified the cause of... early in the summer there were a few occasions where I would be turning left in an intersection, accelerating hard in the top of 2nd gear (crazy turns always) where at about the apex of the turn I would lose power completely for just a moment until the weight transfered then everything would return to normal. It only happened 2 or 3 times earlier this summer, and I never found the cause, always attributed it to a flaky connection somewhere. I suspect this is probably the same issue that is causing the problem now, but is no longer being just an intermittent annoyance, instead is permanently broken. Anyone have any ideas on what it could have been ? Any really common problem areas that cause this? It was only in very fast hard left turns... That E6K is looking really attractive https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png

Thanks guys for any input.

I would start it and wiggle the wires. If that rotor is flooded which it will be if you have no spark, then the Mazda Ignition system will never fire it. You need to pull the boot away (Like totally off, while it is running) to see if the spark will jump and fire the flooded plug.



If this doesn't work, I would also probably pull the plugs and check them for being wet. Leave them out for a day and let things dry.



You might have a bad ignitor, Not sure you would lose just 1/2 of one though.

Slightly off topic, but does anybody know if the S4 n/a coils and igniters are the same as the Turbo's???

Yeah, same thing.

are u getting power into the coils? try hooking up a test lamp to the wires running into the coils.... turn the ignition to "on" and check for voltage.



this should work (i think) i'm pretty sure i tried it on mine when things were lookin bad.