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hey, my name is mike.I love my rx-7 to death buy im having quite a bit of trouble with it and i need some help. i bought a 86 gxl with a bad motor. took it out ( as you can tell by the picture)and threw in a "new" used motor with a claimed 60k and took off all emissons.



i was having a fuel issue with the front rotor not getting enough gas and the rear getting too much. so i swapped out injectors and now im getting gas to both rotors but it wont start. im getting spark but nothing. http://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/wallbash.gif



ive tried to deflood it by pulling plugs and fuse and flooring it while i crank untill there is no more gas coming out. but then when i crank it again. no start. plugs are wet. compression sounds great. i have no idea what to do. any help would be really nice.

I suppose you might try new plugs. Other than that, maybe battery is tired. How's the cranking speed? Gas is reasonably fresh?

Did you check compression on the new motor?

gas is new. just put some more in the other day with some premix. idk how fast cranking speed is. i have no other rx7 starter to compare it too. compression sounded great. has all chugs and all pluses are very strong. i do not have a compression tester thou. i should be getting new plugs on tuesday and the battery was fully charged

Have you tried hooking any of the emissions stuff back up at least to the computer to see if that might be your problem?

That won't make a difference.



Check compression (with a compression tester), replace plugs, and don't floor it when starting (that's a function that works in the S5 cars, not the S4).

do you know your coils are good?

the plugs spark. they ark to the manifold when i test them

any ideas?

good ideas were given- did you check compression?



how old is the battery? Batteries can do funny things, even if they are charged they may not start a car, I have had bad cells cause a new battery not to start the car, but its probably something that is not hooked up properly- triple check everything and dont overlook the basics like firing order and other simple things.

Thanks for the advice!!! i tried with the starting fluid and it wants to fire, so thursday i get new plugs and ill try it again!!! and yeah, im in detroit. its like -1 right now hahah

go easy with that starter fluid, thats a good way to blow a rotary motor.



you may want to try putting marvel mystery oil in the rotors. What you want to do is get MMO and a funnel, the type of funnels for automatic transmissions with the flexible end works well.

Remove leading plugs and put a few drops in , remove EGI fuse under the hood, crank a little bit, put a few more drops in, crank a little again.



Let it sit a day or so.



Crank the engine again to get that MMO to spit out a little bit.

Put the plugs back in.

Put fuse back in, have someone crank the car over, if it does not start within 5-7 seconds remove the fuse, crank until it starts, once it starts put the fuse back in.



The key is to not flood the engine. I have found its best to crank the engine with a battery charger on jump setting.





Let it run for a good 20 minutes to clear it out, take it for a ride and try to get the engine revving.



Let it cool down and put fresh plugs in.

Good advice there. These engines are really hard to unflood if its real bad.

Only thing id like to add is change the oil after you get it running right.

I dont think mazda got it quite right even on the RX8, they flood also

They flood a thousand time worse then any rx7. They made a spray call zoom zoom to help dry out the gas it's probly just starter fluid LOL

well i can see how that works for mazda since they always say zoom zoom in their commercials

got some mmo today, put some into the leading holes. when i go to crank it tomorrow do i crank the mmo out completely or just like quick crank it then throw plugs in it? Then if it doesnt start with the fuse in, i take the fuse out then crank it till it starts??? what happens if it does not start? how long should i crank with the fuse out? just making sure i do everything right

you crank it for a few seconds just to clear out any puddled MMO, then put the spark plugs back in- use the old plugs for this.

If it does not start with the fuse in take it out, crank it and see what happens. It should start up, if not plug the fuse in FOR ONLY A FEW SECONDS, then unplug it again and keep cranking.



make sure of the following:



you have a battery charger hooked up

you allow the starter to cool down and dont crank it for more then 15 seconds or so at a time



this is saying that everything else is hooked up properly, dont over look the basics, including the firing order, plugs T1 and L1 are towards the front of the vehicle, plugs T2 and L2 are towards the firewall. Think of T as "TOP" and L as LOWER.

Make sure the AFM is hooked up, and make sure no one adjusted the TPS to a point where it wont allow the car to start. Also make sure the intake tube is hooked up as well.



T1 T2

L1 L2

Hey thecrow, you have one or two extra of those wheels you have?! They look EXACTLY like the ones on my car...previous owner threw away one of the wheels that were cracked.

nah dude i dont https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub..._DIR#>/sad.gif i wish i did lol. but THANKS EVERYONE and Rob X-7 car started last night!!!

i got a little vid.

http://vimeo.com/2916219

it wont idle on its own. im thinking its because all emissions are removed and i did the tb mod. tonight will be spent dialing it in.

clear it all out and then put the fresh plugs in.

Dont try to clean the plugs you have, I tried that once and the car ran worse.

There ya go! You picked the worst time of the year to fire one off at least temp wise and don't forget change that oil.

yeah, i got a small oil leak somewhere. so ill gotta fix that but new oil in tomorrow and just got the new plugs

check the oil pan gasket (idk if they have a top gasket set for these or not)

first place that usually leaks are the o-rings under the oil filter

Look at oil pressure sending unit and oil cooler hoses and did both copper washers get on the banjo bolt on the one line? As well as the "o" rings mentioned

i'm making an exhaust from the manifold back. no cats, no resonators. still going the dual tip style. what size pipe should i use? i heard 2.5 was the biggest youd want to go n/a. whats your thoughts?

Well I am sure this is going to upset a few people here, but really your not going to accomplish a whole lot performance wise. Sure opening up the intake and exhaust will help but, too far and the car will loose drivability and power on the bottom end as well as the top end. You have a limited ability to tune an N/A those injectors and the stock ECU are limited at best. And that's old tech compaired to todays systems.

Turbo cars have back pressure just because there is a turbo in the exhaust path and reducing intake or exhaust resistance allows the turbo to spool faster, but there is back pressure. Anyway this is why the turbo cars run the larger pipes and less of a muffler.

N/A motors require back pressure too! Only wide open throtle will an open tuned system help power. Now to produce torqe and that's what starts the car in motion not horse power ya need some of that back pressure. First off look at the stock exhaust manifold it's a chamber not a header or even close. I think it is also used to retain heat as well as cut sound. People wrap headers and pipes now because it retains the heat help scavage the spent gases. Keeps the turbo hot on turbo cars. Anyway it not a DIY project.Even for a professional in shop equipped with a hydraulic pipe bender, welder etc. Get a header wrap it,keep the pipe size modest 2 maybe 2 1/4" and use a resonator in place of that cat and a couple low restriction type mufflers. Hey and too much noise will only attract the guys in BLUE. I am sure some will disagree but there ya go.

Oh by the way that's an S4 and it needs some back pressure to open those secondary ports!

im not in it only for the performance, the old system is shot. I will be building it in a shop with all the tools that i would need. say i am going 2 inch. where would i put the tube part in order to get the ports to work? that is my only worry. should i try to use the big stock resonator type thing?

I drove my vert as a NA car up until last year ( about 13 years total or so? I forget? )



I had 3 different exausts on it, each one got quieter and cleaner.



Trust me on this one- dont run straight pipes with no resonator, it will really wear on you and make driving the car misreable.

if i run 2 inch to the large cat/resonator will my ports still actuate? or do i have to move it a tad closer? and does the large cat/ resonator clog easily? i do not feel like replacing it

all in all what would you call the best year/series to get and for me it has to be 5 spd it makes thing fun