I just got my turbo from BNR so i quick like got all that installed and was ready to start the car. one problem. it won't start.



What I know is:

Leading coil (black/yellow) wire is getting 12v constant with the key in ignition.

Spark plugs (tried 4 different sets doesn't matter grounding it on the strut tower bolt to see if it had spark.. nay)

Has fuel.. can smell that lovely stuff.

Everything worked when I pulled the motor.. meaning I dun f'd something up.



I disconnected my S-AFC from the MAF sensor to eliminate that variable.. and hooked the MAF back to itself properly like.

I removed my FCD (its new never tested on the car).



i'm lost.. could this be a faulty engine ground? argh finaly everything gets here and then it has no spark :(



please hellp..

i was gonna say...its a ground https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR

oke.. grounds are as follows (that i remember)



I have driver side ground say.. 8 gauge wire.. that is on a bolt that goes through the bell housing to the motor (don't remember if that one has the bolt on the other end or if it's a different one).

One little like 16 gauge wire that goes from the motor to the firewall (on top)

then one i put in which is 8 gauge from the UIM center bolt to the firewall.

That's all i can recall though should i have more?



I'm thinking I need to check the CAS signial.. see if it's reaching the ECU and then if the ECU is sending out a signial..

sine I know the the leading coil has juice.. it might not be getting a fire command.. ?!?!? https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/dunno.gif

if when you pulled the spark plug and grounded it to the chassis to test for spark you did not see any spark, it's not likely you have an engine ground issue.



It's going to be either the CAS, the wiring for the CAS, the coils/ignitors, or the wiring for those, or the ecu... thats what I think anyways.



check that stuff, the service manual has some useful info for diagnosing this also.

reading that bad boy right now.. why couldn't it just be simple for my first (hopefully last) motor swaps :(



I did almost all the diagnostics for my leading coil.. so now i might pull my UIM and check all of that stuff.. but that's for tomarrow or thursday..



naturally.. motor goes in so nicely.. all seems well.. it never works that way with me.. i should have known this was going to happen hehe

alright.. checked the CAS.. the ohm readings i got if I did it right says that's oke.

checked the ECU and its getting power checked the 12v's on it just to make sure..

as far as I can tell the coils seem fine to !?!?!.



what i found now is I had the ign on and I heard like a fast clicking sound right next to the solenoids. So i started unplugging those.. didn't stop.. went to the plug that'ld be just to the driver side of the oil filler neck.. has two hoses going to it.. and that was clicking away.. i've never heard that click before now.. I unplugged it and the clicking stopped.. but would this be at all related??



thanks for the help.. I printed out engine electrical and fuel and emissions controll and cross referenceing back and forth.

there are 3 parts to the ingnition system.

cas, ecu, coils and the wiring in between



mike

n/m Reading the FSM that's suppose to do that I guess.. the boost solenoid is suppose to click when a 12v current is applied which I should have applied when the ign is on I'm guessing..



back to the hopeful drawing board.. according to the FSM i'm suppose to be pulling like a 0-1v on my CAS signial.. which is a pain to check basically the DMM needs to change a number or two.



I'm damn near tempted to just re wire the CAS and coils to the ECU hehe arghh *bangs head on desk* why won't you ruuuunn https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...

I checked my Lead coil and that seems to be fine.. will the trailing still fire? so say i try grounding the trailing plug and if that is sparking.. then I know it's the leading.. worth a shot?

trailing isn't firing either.. so if the trailing and leading are on seperate pin outs on the ECU.. this should mean i'm having problems between the CAS - > ECU..



am I making sense or am I noob of rotaries or what https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png

the leading plugs are wired together, so if one is fouled, neither one will fire



mike

right.. leading plugs are together i have old & new plugs. So i've been rotating those around and cleaning them often due to the fact i'm getting gas into the combustion chamber.



I now know my trailing isn't firing either.. which is just another great thing to find out..



so if my ecu is sizzled.. am i going to have to break the damn bank AGAIN and go stand alone.. like say vosko's PFC he has for sale. or maybe haltech hehe.. argh more money to invest .. damn joo turbo ii!

if one trailing plug is fouled to the point that it wont fire, the other will not fire either. it breaks the circuit.

i used my new set and they didn't fire.. i'll check the rear rotors trailing plug tonight thanks for giving me things to check.. i just wish it'ld be somethign stupid simple so i can slap myself on the head and then start the car..

no its only the leading that does that, the trailing is independant



mike

yah, thats right. I meant leading.

alright i'll try again with 4 new plugs in it and see if she's happy.. unfortunatley i have to wait until after work and see if she becomes a happy car or not https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png



thanks guys!

i'm an idiot.. it's my CAS.



I removed the CAS.. set a plug on the strut bar turned the key to ign spun it and i got spark...

place it back in.. no dice... no spark.. wth!?!? I'm lining up the yellow mark on the main pulley.. then i'm lining up the two lines on the CAS.. sliding it in.. making sure it doesn't turn through the peep hole.. no luck though no matter what it won't produce a spark once it's in... :(

how do you know its not sparking when your cranking it over? also, lining up the marks and sliding the CAS usually puts it about 18 degrees off. So make sure to adust it with the timing light when you get it started.

'IGN on' spin CAS manually grounded plug sparks.



place CAS Into motor and spin it manually grounded plug sparks.



turn the key and let the starter do the work.. no spark.



leave key in 'ign on'



remove CAS spin cass.. no spark..



https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...O_DIR



i've regrounded the starter as a just in case.. but i'm lost..i could push start the car and it'll run.. but if my starter is disabling my ignition system i'm SOL unles i park on a hill https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

ECU Error codes



3 - CAS (G signal)

13 - Pressure Sensor (Intake Manifold Pressure)



30 & 33 (those deal with emissions which some how I don't have :smirk:



another place to look at and still a non running car.. ah.. make it stop.



5am - wireless internet + notebook = sitting in garage searching forums for possible fixes https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...

that g signal code is the cas, try another one or check the wiring



mike

I did some testing on the CAS. G signal is 155.2 ohm resistance and the Ne is 155.7. factory specs are 100 - 200 ohm so the CAS is fine and dandy. I'm going to have to check the ECU and figure out if the signal is getting that far. If not.. rewire the G signal to the ECU.



The car is having troubles deciding what codes it wants to throw. I was testing the afm and was getting the right resitances that I should and sometimes the car throws code 8 (maf) and some times it doesn't. damn confusing. I used some electrical cleaner and went through and cleaned the connections to the MAF & Pressure sensor. I no longer get pressure sensor error but instead it's the MAF in replacement. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png



I can just tell I'm going to have alot of fun this afternoon with the car again :yum:

when you test the cas you need to spin it and you can watch the signal



mike

do you know what the 'g signal' is excactly vs the Ne signal?



if i have the car in 'ign' and spin the cas by hand i'll get spark. I can place the cas back into it's little home.. and spin the motor by hand.. and get spark.. but the second i use the starter i don't get a spark from the plugs anymore.



I think i'm going to just rewire the CAS g signal.. it can't hurt and according the the FSM it's either a short / broken circuit.. or my ECU is shat https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png

well thats wierd the ecu knows you have the key in "start" maybe you shoud pull that wire out of the ecu and see what happens?



mike

which wire? the g signal wire?



I'ld guess if i pulled the wire i'ld get the same code but while i'm rewiring i might as well try. The FSM's steps for fixing a code 3 is like 1st check CAS resistance. 2nd check for wiring messup/short, 3rd replace ecu hehe.



I suppose when i removed my wiring harness it could have been a brittle wire. i tried not to bend the harness as little as possible in case something like this might happen. and it did https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png



I don't know if this matters but, with my S-AFC w/ a charger stays on while trying to start the car.. when I don't have the car charger on and try to start the car the s-afc like reboot itself.



edit btw thanks for your help i appreciate it.

there is a wire from the key to the ecu that tells the ecu you are starting the car, maybe you should bypass that



mike