Whats up guys, I am new to the whole rx-7/rotary scene. I own 2 hondas, a 13 second prelude and an accord for a winter car. I am looking to pick up an FC this summer for somewhat cheap (since im broke as a joke). I am definately going to go turbo. Now a frat brother of mine has a GXL, i believe its an 88 and its not running right now. My other friend (who is an rx-7 guru, says its just leaky fuel injectors, and hes pretty sure he can fix it. I'm trying to pick this car up for like $500, and throwing the turboII motor in it. Up until browsing this forum, i thought that its an easy bolt on deal, is it? If i want to go turbo should i not get this gxl and swap a turbo on it? Hold off and get a turboII?



(some other questions)



what kind of hp numbers/quarter times are we looking at running stock?



what about with intake/downpipe/exhaust?



do i want to go carborated?



what kind of price am i looking at for a decent turboII? is it a better idea to just buy one with a fucked up motor and buying a working one for it? how much does a motor run?



i want a turbocharged car. i dont want to turbocharge my prelude, and i cant afford an FD or supra atm. definately dont want to go DSM like the rest of the world. after riding in my friends 1st gen, watching endless hours of initial d, and seeing how well rx-7's do autocrossing, i pretty much have my mind set on an FC (or is it FC3s?)



sorry for the load of questions... i appreciate any help.



peace

lol another convert. I say it's better to hold off for a T2. Many people have done the T2 swap into an N/A though like Rotaryman88 and 13BAce. They could tell you what you'd have to do and all.



I think a stock 89-91 200 hp T2 tested by Car & Driver or Road & Track does the quarter in 15 flat. I think thats what Mazda rated it too. The 87-88 180 hp were a little slower even though they weighed less.



I'm guessing you were asking the question about carburating for the 13b N/A? I don't know what it takes to carburate a 13B or how hard it is, but I know the sound is just awesome.



For a 87-88 T2, look at about $2000-2500. For 89-91 look at about $3500-4000. I say buy the T2 if the motor was replaced recently or has low mileage (as in under 100,000). There aren't a lot of T2's with under 100,000 miles though. Just make sure you test drive the car and make sure the motor is still strong. If not, then get one with a dead motor and just get a Jspec motor. They are relatively cheap compared to a B16 or any Honda motor for that matter.



87-88 2nd Gen Rx7's were known as the FC3S. The 89-91 2nd Gens were known as the FC3C.

yeah youre right, i guess the carburator would only be if i was going n/a. wow, thats more than i expected price wise. what causes that difference in hp between the 87-88's and the 89-91's is it something like the exhaust thats going to be replaced anyway? i mean as stupid as it sounds, i dont want to be spending that much. on the other hand, i want to get the faster model... whats an FCD? what do bpu (if you call it that) turboII's run in the quarter mile? what do you run? oh yeah, and how much do turboII's weigh? sorry about the load of questions, i just want to learn as much as possible.



thanks for the quick reply

peace

about 2800 pounds. im new to the board too, just ask questions the guys here are really cool they'll help you out and read posts you'll learn a lot.

87-88 T2's came had 8.5:1 compression ratio while 89-91 had a 9:1 ompression ratio. The turbo system on the 89-91 was also revised for quicker spooling.



If you want the faster one, get the 89-91 and strip the interior. The main reason they are heavier is because they came fully loaded with leather and all. 87-88's weighed about 2800 lbs like supraguy said, and 89-91 weigh about 3000 lbs.



FCD is stands for fuel cut defenser. When you get a free flowing exhaust and intake, your boost goes up. The ECU only sends enough fuel for the stock boost setting (around 8 lbs I think). Anything over 8 lbs, the computer cuts the fuel to the motor. No fuel while boosting = engine go boom! :o The FCD is used to make the computer think it's still only boosting 8 lbs, and therefore continue sending fuel.



Sorry I have no idea what you mean by bpu.



I haven't ran my car yet, but I'm expecting 13's once I get some stuff sorted out. Hope that helps.

Also the S5 (89-91) rotors are lighter weight, the wastegate on the turbo is bigger, and better. I friend of mine ran a 14.5 with his stock 91 TII.



And as supraguy said, keep asking questions, we are here to help you out with any questions you may have, no matter how stupid they may be. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png