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Okay, so I got the 2 obvious nuts on the differential off. Easy. Then, I felt around and concluded that there were an additional 3 nuts to remove. Though it was tough as hell, I got them. What do I have to do now to get the thing out? Please do not tell me I must drop the subframe and the suspension and all the other goodies. However, if I must, then so be it. Any info would be great, thanks.
-B |
Originally Posted by Mr. B' post='847412' date='Nov 30 2006, 10:32 PM
Okay, so I got the 2 obvious nuts on the differential off. Easy. Then, I felt around and concluded that there were an additional 3 nuts to remove. Though it was tough as hell, I got them. What do I have to do now to get the thing out? Please do not tell me I must drop the subframe and the suspension and all the other goodies. However, if I must, then so be it. Any info would be great, thanks. -B you have to disconnect the front diff mount, which means dropping the subframe, its only another 5-6 bolts. the subframe doesnt have to come out, just drop 3-4 inches |
id drop the subframe down or completely out like i did. it is so much easier. it took me 1.5 hrs about to get it off, and that includes messing around and not working too hard. just undo the camber bar, subframe bolts and mounts,rear diff mounts, sway bar bolts, shocks. its pretty damn straightforward. i dont think i will ever mess with the diff again up in the car.
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If removing it completely, the hard part is getting it back up. Think that through and have a plan before dropping it completely.
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jack the back up
car on stands jack unter the diff unbolt all the subframe bolts, lower the jack a bit, the hard part is wrestling the subframe down off its bolts so it falls a few inches and the diff sits on the jack the front diff bolts should be reachable with a long extension lower the jack with the diff, subframe should hang there on its own wrestle the diff out from under it, that sucker is heavy. i leave the sways and shocks on everytime i do it. its actually a lot easier then it sounds. |
Originally Posted by Leetheslacker' post='849025' date='Dec 13 2006, 04:56 PM
jack the back up car on stands jack unter the diff unbolt all the subframe bolts, lower the jack a bit, the hard part is wrestling the subframe down off its bolts so it falls a few inches and the diff sits on the jack the front diff bolts should be reachable with a long extension lower the jack with the diff, subframe should hang there on its own wrestle the diff out from under it, that sucker is heavy. i leave the sways and shocks on everytime i do it. its actually a lot easier then it sounds. Actually, I decided to sell the new driveshaft I bought for the turbo conversion and am going to get the Mazdatrix Turbo tranny -> NA differential driveshaft. just seems so much easier than buying a whole new rear end when I have an LSD already in it. |
Originally Posted by Mr. B' post='849060' date='Dec 13 2006, 10:30 PM
Actually, I decided to sell the new driveshaft I bought for the turbo conversion and am going to get the Mazdatrix Turbo tranny -> NA differential driveshaft. just seems so much easier than buying a whole new rear end when I have an LSD already in it. some people say the NA diff wont handle the power. but hey, youre not having fun until you're breaking parts, right? https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683329.gif |
Originally Posted by Leetheslacker' post='849068' date='Dec 13 2006, 11:44 PM
some people say the NA diff wont handle the power. but hey, youre not having fun until you're breaking parts, right? https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683329.gif Well, I am running a stock application. No big sexy turbo or fat injectors yet. I am just trying to get the thing off the jack stands. I did however, completely rebuild the motor with new apex's, apex springs, corner seals, plugs, side seals, springs, plate gaskets, oil rings, polished E-shaft, minor port job, and a couple other mods but all and all, the turbo is stock and so are the injectors. -B |
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