ok i was flirting with the idea of doing a turbo swap and i was told you can mate a n/a tranny with a t2 engine. but how come here about people with n/a tranny's holding 400 hp. How are they accomplishing this is what i wanna know if the two aren't compatible. especially since i've never heard of a n/a engine putting out 400 hp

I dont know how they drive, but Ive broken 2 n/a trannies with a n/a engine.

I think yo are confused No STOCK N/A tranny will hold 400hp. Mabey a transmission that is rebuilt buy a performance transmission shop but other than that I doubt it. I destroyed an N/A tranny in a week after I installed the 88S4 motor in my 86.

but how hard did you drive it and will it bolt right up

if you use the na flywheel/starter/clutch the t2 engine will bolt right up to the na trans

ok thanks for you help now i feel better https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

you could have a high horse power car with a n/a tranny you would just have to baby it around and no drag racing on it

Basically if you want to feel the power from your turbo motor, then get a turbo transmission.



Otherwise you can limp around like a grannie with an N/A transmission.



If N/A builders are getting TII transmissions, that is a big sign that the tranny is weak and can't handle much over stock.

all i needed to know

we're breaking synchros, here, i think we'd be breaking turbo synchros too?

i heard the same thing from my rotary guy (smokin joe) and he said the stock NA Tranny can hold up to 500 hp

Probably!

I think its time for me to tear down that last n/a tranny I killed and take pics. I can assure you much more than just the synchros are broken...

we broke the diff mount too https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png, you must be some kind of animal adam, we've got like 6 guys to break the car, and you're just you https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/ohmy.png

I’m not a transmission rebuilder, but I have seen a few disassembled. How do you break a synchronizer ring in a manual transmission? I’ve seen worn out, and/or overheated synchros. I’ve seen broken dog teeth, busted collars and snapped countershafts, but what does one do to “break” a synchro? I’m not saying you didn’t do it, I’m just wondering how.

Id go through a diff mount a week if it wasnt for my camber link. Ive got the diff nearly wedged against the floor. I can hear a nice *thwack* when i shift hard from the diff hitting the floor.



And yes, I know Im not nice to transmissions. The grabby clutch, sticky tires, and strong engine arent exactly making its life easy either.

well when you shift the synchro is pushed against the cone surface on the gear, to stop the gear. if you push too hard the synchro will snap, as you're trying to push it over a cone, or the gear is trying to make it bigger. once its snapped, it lacks the strength to grab the gear anymore and it will grind badly.

If I understand how the transmission works, my FC NA manual has what Mazda refers to as a hub assembly (AKA engagement collar). The synchros are attached to both sides of the hub assembly (each side is used for a different gear). When I shift, the cone on the gear, which is male, slips into the cone shaped area of the synchro, which is female. The friction between the two is used to speed up the hub and associated gear to match the rotational speed of the shaft so that they are both moving at the same speed before the dog teeth are engaged.



The only time the hub and or gear will stop moving is if the transmission's mainshaft is still (the car is not moving). Are you breaking parts while waiting at a light, or is the car moving at the time?



If a car is moving, and someone pushes too hard on the shifter before the hub and the shaft speeds have been synchronized, the sychro ring can overheat (hot spots and excessive wear), and/or the dog teeth can be slammed into position damaging the teeth on the gear, hub, or both. I've never heard of the syncro ring itself breaking, but like I said, I'm not a transmission tech and I suppose anything is possible. What you're describing really sounds like broken dog teeth, as that is what causes the grinding noise, not the synchro itself.



If the car is sitting still when the damage occurs, there is a clutch problem.

ok what if it was an s4 turbo engine. i know htey have significant power differences compared ot an s5. and also what if i babied the car till i could put an t2 drivetrain in the car. would hte car hold up.

i.e. if i didn't kill the car off of the line

Yeah it would hold up, but you'd probably have to baby it pretty damn good..

but an s4 turbo engine is putting out that much power and you guys are telling me that the n/a tranny can't handle like 170 lbs of torque. the 95' z24 cavalier came with 185 lbs of torque and hte rx7 tranny is that much of a bitch??? https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub..._DIR#>/sad.png

right all the hub sets are attached, via splines to the output shaft. the gears are on bearings or bushings.



our breakage is occuring moving, its a road race car. what happens is that *i think* when you, or tommy, or paul, or seth or alex slam it into gear the cone on the gear try to pull the synchro apart, and over time (1 season, in this case) it did



i wonder if shift stops, would help us?

wtf does the na rx7 tranny have to do with your french car?

an s4 turbo 2 engine.

i.e. there is an s4 t2 engine and an s5 t2 engine. s4 =185hp/170ft.lbs

s5=202hp/190ft.lbs

not an audi s4