My Heat Sux
#1
ok the heat in my 10ae sucks ***. i can let the car run for hours and the temp needle barely moves. if i leave the heat on for too long it will get the needle to drop to dead cold and it start blowing cold air. i did replace the thermostat and drained/filled the coolant system. do you think fluching the heater core will help or is it somehtign else?
#3
yeah, mazda thermostat only like rob said. I tried a cheap one once from autozone and my temp gauge was all sorts of crazy, simply changed
to the mazda one and everything was fine.
also make sure you use the correct water:antifreeze ratio, if you use all water you can significantly lower the running temp.
flushing heater core might help, it could be clogged, but since you're claiming that running the heat is cooling the water further, that is not likely.
if you have a mechanical cooling fan make sure the fan clutch is not seized... if electric confirm it's not running 100% of the time
to the mazda one and everything was fine.
also make sure you use the correct water:antifreeze ratio, if you use all water you can significantly lower the running temp.
flushing heater core might help, it could be clogged, but since you're claiming that running the heat is cooling the water further, that is not likely.
if you have a mechanical cooling fan make sure the fan clutch is not seized... if electric confirm it's not running 100% of the time
#5
don't have a choice about driving in the winter. there is no snow here just rain. i am running about 70:30 water:coolant. the thermostat is a new (couple hundred mile) mazda thermostat. i can slide the temp control and it will blow colder but the more i drive the colder the heat gets. im leaning towards a clogged heater core. there was alot of scaling inside the filler neck when i bought it. if everyhitng goes ok i will be replacing the motor next week and will fluch it then. im just looking for ideas
#6
Originally Posted by moxeysrx7@aol.com' date='Jan 1 2003, 10:09 PM
don't have a choice about driving in the winter. there is no snow here just rain. i am running about 70:30 water:coolant. the thermostat is a new (couple hundred mile) mazda thermostat. i can slide the temp control and it will blow colder but the more i drive the colder the heat gets. im leaning towards a clogged heater core. there was alot of scaling inside the filler neck when i bought it. if everyhitng goes ok i will be replacing the motor next week and will fluch it then. im just looking for ideas
#8
wait a sec! my old 87 TII did this! but nevermind it was just the logicon was fucked so i had to manually put it to heat. keep in mind dave @ kdr didn't do this for me. so i had to drive 80 miles in winter with no heat and no feeling in my hands or feet for hours .... wow that sucked !
#10
I would lean towards a logicon problem, or some sort of electrical device in the car that controls heat, I know some other cars have other components of the heating system that switch from cold-hot.
I have never heard of a clogged heater core, it would have to be REALLY clogged which would mean the entire cooling system would be really clogged as well. And the temperature gauge wouldnt mean a thing, mine barely moves in my vert, it goes up a tiny bit then never moves from there, the car never gets above 180 and crusing on the highway it can stay at 160. My jeep runs at 160 on the highway and 150 when its idling.
Does the heat change at all when you slide the lever from cold-hot?
I have never heard of a clogged heater core, it would have to be REALLY clogged which would mean the entire cooling system would be really clogged as well. And the temperature gauge wouldnt mean a thing, mine barely moves in my vert, it goes up a tiny bit then never moves from there, the car never gets above 180 and crusing on the highway it can stay at 160. My jeep runs at 160 on the highway and 150 when its idling.
Does the heat change at all when you slide the lever from cold-hot?