Well went out to start it after it's sat for about 3 weeks unstarted,

wouldn't start, jumped it, it started....got in, (after it had blow white smoke and warmed up) put it in gear, take the e-brake off, and try to move forward..no good, brakes are frozen....give it some gas, they finally break free....notice that when i step on the brakes while it's started all lights dim ALOT, go for a quick cruise (about 4-5 mins, at low/medium/high operating ranges) go back home, turn off the car, to check the brake reservoir, it's full, make sure i had the e-brake ALL the way off, try to start it again, no good, just a click, so what i am thinking here is bad alternator and frozen rear caliper...

how much is this gonna cost me or is there a fix for either problem?!!!!! Thanx in advance, also i prolly will HAVE to drive it next

week, if i can't get it fixed will it be semi safe to drive?



thanks,

Sean

Alternator's run about 80-100$ and they're not that hard to replace yourself. The caliper though... I'm not sure of the money situation but I think it might be alright if you just get it warmed up somehow. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683561.gif

How can I tell if the Alt. is bad? someone told me to start it and take off the + or - cable on the battery to check, can't remember which it was...any truth to this!?



Sean

Disconnect the - cable.. What this does is make your car run of the alternator power only.. if the car shuts off, then the alternator cannot make enough power to keep it going so it drains the battery.. Most stores like Autozone or large chain stores will check your alt for free.. I think they will even do it if it is off the car..

Do not do this trick on a computer controlled vehicle, the voltage spike may fry components. I suggest taking the alternator off and running it to Pep boys, Autozone or other parts supply house, as was mentioned before they ussualy test them for free. The alternator on a FC has to be the easiest alternator I have seen to remove. Not like you are changing one on a 300ZX twin turbo (known to take 6+ hours) The technician should be able to tell you what is wrong. Take your battery in with you as well. Have it tested at the same time (save yourself a trip when you find out the alternator is fine) If both check out just fine it is time to figure out what electrical component is at fault. This requires a Volt meter. Disconnect the negative wire from the battery. Make sure all electrical components are off, including having the door shut (so the dome light is not lit. Connect one lead of the multi-meter to the battery terminal, and the other to the battery cable. Swith the multi-meter to read DC voltage. If there is voltage present it means there is an electrical component drawing power. The next step is to see how much by changing the reading to amperage. *Warning* Fluke meters have an internal 10 amp fuse, anything over this may blow the fuse. if the amperage is less than 1 amp there is not much to worry about ( clocks and stereo memory are ussualy .5 amps) If it is larger than this swap back to the DC voltage scale and start pulling fuses until the voltage reading disappears. At this point you have narrowed the circut down, chaeck all systems operating on this circut to determine what may be the problem (IE cigarette lighter that is stuck) Good luck



TC

thanks for the info TC, my god, YOU ARE GOOD!!!! guess i get to take it apart this weekend :P



thanx everyone!

Sean

these guys aren't good there great and they are GODS IF ITS NOT TO LATE I HAVE AN ALTRENATOR FOR YOU THAT IS IN GOOD SHAPE !!!

how much Mazdaenthused?



i get 2 300$ referral bonuses coming here in the next month...



1's already gone, but the other...it has no plans https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png



Sean

like 65-70