but i know you guys would know the answers anyways.



lets see:



1) Should upgrade my ecu?



2) What octane gas should i put in?



3) WHY IS MY THIRD GEAR GRINDING!??!

everytime i shift into third i get a bad grinding sound. If i do it REALLY slowly, its not too bad, but i still feel something. but if i shift aggressively, i get a worse grinding noise as the gear engages. i tried shifting into third at all speeds, as low as 20mph, and as high as 40mph, but i still get the same grinding. lastly, it seems to be worse when i downshift into third. any ideas? please help.



4) my parking break light is ALWAYS ON. it just started happening yesterday. before it would always turn off when i released the Parking break, but now, the light stays on. probably just stupid electical problem, but i hope there is an easy fix you guys know of.





thanks again gentleman. any info will help me, so please post away. Im still learning about rexs, so i need all the info i can get.

several people have looked at my post, but no one is trying to help me out :( please help this poor FNG.



oh and another question. how do I 'launch'? you know, get off the line fast. I dont have the slightest clue as to what the method is.

Well If your car is a non-turbo you should only use the lowest octane gas (87) around here. High octane gas burns too slow for the n/a and I think will give you more carbon build up and poor mileage. If your car is a turbo you need to use the highest octane stuff (92).

As for your brake light I am not sure, but try to look around at the base of the e-brake. Take the plastic off, and remove the carpet or whatever to see if you can see a button or device that the e-brake handle hits when you pull it up. On my other vehicles, usually this button gets stuck or bent just enough to keep the e-brake light on. Now I am not sure this is how the e-brake light on the 7 works, I might be totally wrong so hopefully someone can give you better advice. Good luck.

thanks isamu. but another query: why low octane? doesnt that cause knocking?

It's more harmful on piston engines because it's easier to produce knocking with them since it's a linear motion that is converted into rotary motion, not the case with rotary engines. And lower octane gas gives its energy in a shorter time so better for fast rotating engines. With engines with high-rpm torque like rotaries that's even more true. If the energy is released too quickly without producing movement, it will generate knocking and heat instead so there's a midpoint somewhere but it's below 87 for Rx7 NA. Low octane gas has a low 'flash point' (so it gets in fire at lower temp) so in turbo you need more octane because more pressure means more heat.

If your brake warning light is staying on, you may have a problem with your brakes, check if the fluid is low, if it low- it went somewhere, either it leaked, or most likely your pads are low, or a caliper is stuck. Leave your ECU the way it is unless you one day do alot of upgrades like turbo and what not. Your 3rd gear is grinding because its on its way out, drive the car normal, and it could last for years, my 3rd gear has a little bit of a grind since I got it, but I dont abuse the car, and its been like that for 5 years now.

I have the same third gear problem. It is my syncro's. They are notorious to go bad on 2nd gen's. I agree with Rob. Most common problem with the brake light is low fluid. I would check that first.

thanks for the responses. but wuts a synchro? expensive to replace?



and how do i launch?



i have a rex with 120 k miles on it, what things should i be worried about? what should i be replacing?

another thing, can i just do an engine swap with my current N/A engine for a Turbocharged one? would it be that difficult? could i do it at home? i have a 2 mules and a good pulley system, i think i can lift it up and in.

Transmission syncronizers are placed in transmissions to keep the gears from grinding. They are made of brass so they wear out instead of the gears. I am sure they are expensive to replace. I am doing mine myself, you have to take apart the trans to replace them.



About launching, I haven't been to the track yet (waiting to get my driveshaft, syncros and clutch done), but when I am messing around at a light I drop the clutch at like 3500. But anything over that and my clutch slips. Or you could be like vosko and drop the clutch at 8500 https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png



Things to worry about. Well, the fuel pulsation damper(sp) is common to go. When that goes you have a nice little fire. Radiator, hoses, belts. Mostly the same as any other car.

Have you done the ATF trick yet???



Also you shouldn't just drop in a turbo motor. There are many other things you need. I am planning to do the swap when this engine goes so I am going to start buying a little at a time. I am sure someone *cough*13Bace*cough* on here that has done the swap can tell you everything you need.



Hope this helps a little



Mike

Thanks for the feedback mike.



But dammit answers to my questions only lead to more questions. but i guess its the only way to learn.



Synchs are expensive? thas not cool. but i think that would help my gear grinding.



whats the ATF trick?



and why cant i just drop in a turbo engine =( anyone have an extra one btw? i'll take it.



but uh yea, 13ace please give me some feed back with your experience with an engine swap. i really want to make a nice sleeper. but having a N/A makes my sleeper a slow looking car that is slow .....



moving rite along, i'd really appreciate some more info. oh and lastly how much would AN A/C cost to replace? i dont have one. it was taken out for weight reduction. but i dont feel the 25lbs (how much can AC weigh?) of WR is worth sweltering in the 96 degrees of NYC spring weather.

ATF Trick



If you wait too long to replace the syncros, you will be replacing the hard parts in your tranny.



As for the AC I don't know how much. Do yourself a favor and get a decent name brand like Four Seasons or AC Delco when you do it. I am sure it is a few hundred dollars for compressor, dryer, orfice and condensor. And retrofit it to R-134 right off the bat.

it be expensive i know the compressor alone is like $300, u might be able to get one off ebay though, and there are a lot more parts, i know i ripped mine out every bit counts https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png

N/A to Turbo Conversion



This should answer most of your engine swap questions.



Mike

thanks thanks. i got a NEW problem though



This one is really odd. when i put a lot of throttle or when im above 3500 rpm, SOMETIMES my engine will start sputtering. i can hear my exhaust being really jerky, indicating my engine messing up. which then causes my car to jerk. (as if i were tapping the gas pedal) like it skips. it just started to happen, then it goes away, then comes back after i've driven for 15 minutes. i dunno wut it can be. I think it happens when my 5th and 6th ports open up when i aggressively gas, or am at higer rpm. but oddly it only happens after i've driven for 15 minutes or so, not in the beginning.



so i can drive aggressively after i warm up, but after 15 minutes its starts to jerk.



PLEASE HELP!!!!



btw, '87 N/A 120k miles.

what the heck is a bump start?

ack, forgot to ask: how do i check break fluid?



I KNOW NOTHING ABOUT CARS!!!

Your brake fluid is in the mastercylinder. It is a plastic container with a round cap on it. Make sure the fluid is to the line but not overfull



If you are refering to bump start when doing the ATF trick it is tapping the key on so the rotors spin but doesn't actually start the engine.



About your problem it could be a couple things. The carbon buildup, ignition wires, spark plugs, clogged fuel filter, clogged injector, MAF sensor....etc. Start small like a full tune up with new plugs wires fuel and air filter. Do the ATF trick cause it is pretty much free. Then see if the problem is still there.

There is a place that sells the OEM addition of A/C for these cars, Mazdaformance.com Yes its formance and performance! A A/c add on kit from them for 89-91 is $499.00, but maybe you can just tell them whats missing. Or try to find a junk yard that has it Thier prices are pretty much what a shop buys the parts for from a dealer.