I recently purchased a 1990 rx7 convertible, my first rotary.



Heres my problem, the ecu is throwing codes 26 & 27 (MOP issues). Its my understanding the S5 MOP is extremely expensive.



What would be necessary to delete the MOP (for premix)?

What I've figured so far

-Pipe plugs for rotor housing

-ECU Mod to prevent it from going into limp mode from lack of MOP signal

-another ECU (if mine is fried)





What would be necessary to run a mechanical MOP?

What I've figured so far

-Mechanical MOP

-ECU mod to keep it from going into limp mode from lack of MOP signal

-a good ECU (if mines fried)



Am I missing anything?

Which would be more cost effective (short term, and long term)?

Omp delete run premix you neex the omp blocl off plate maybe an ecu mod dunno i have an s4 never heard of running a mech omp on an s5

You'd have to switch to a S4 front cover

i am currently running a s5 hybrid engine ( in an s4 ) [ with LPG mixer and dizzy = no ECU ]

and i have fitted the s4 timing cover,, turbo oil drain and TB ( and use a cable for the linkage )



all these parts are necessary

though if clever you can mod the s5 TB for a linkage

and use a cut shut oil drain with hose ( ala 12a timing cover swaps )



BTW,, mines coming off this week to refit the EOMP

as i have a standalone controller for it that i helped develop

( runs off a 5V load source,, be it TPS, map or aftermarket ECU aux out )

oh,, and PS,, the s5 water pump housing may need a small grind at the back to make it work with the s4 timing cover

- i find this pump clashes with at least 12a timing covers ,, and this may well include the s4 one

( as i have swapped s4 and 12a pumps irrespective of cover )

Sounds like converting to premix will be the most cost effective method to solving this problem.



So if I understand correctly, in order to switch to premix on a S5 13b, I need:



A blockoff plate

http://www.pineapple...k-offplate.aspx



Oil metering injection bung plugs

http://www.pineapple...eringplugs.aspx



ECU mod for MOP removal

http://www.pocketlog...=1&ecu=S5NA#mop

Update: Discovered calcium deposits / water stains inside the ECU casing on the curcuit boards when inspecting it for damage. Going to get another ECU and see if its just my ECU thats damaged.



Is there any reason I cant use a non-convertible ECU in my vert?

Whoa, I have an S5 vert ecu available, I just need to find it. I pulled it out for my engine swap, and it worked fine prior to that.

Cool, I'm down by tampa bay so I can probably make a drive up there to pick it up, if you can find it.

How much would you want for it?





when it rained today I discovered the source of the water damage is a damaged convertible top seal, and door frame seal (both by the window's front corner).

Sealed it up with some home depot weatherstripping for now. I should have it minimized to a drip now. Going to vacuum out the water, and start leaving towels on the passenger side just in case it leaks more than I expect.







Considering attempting to relocate the ECU higher to avoid waterdamage, or sealing the casing with neoprene that I use for roofing.

Any thoughts?

checked MOP. Half the connector isn't reading anything. If I had to guess, probably a bad solder joint somewhere. Guess I'm gonna get to see the guts of the MOP this weekend to find out where I'm losing current....... Dont try this at home kids.

I'd drill a hole in the floor under the carpet for water to drain if I was that concerned, but I'm pretty shadetree/redneck/ghetto.

why not just fix the leak??

They all leak.

not mine lol if it did itd probly be clogged sunroof drains simple fix



way easier then trying to stop a convertible from leaking

I meant all convertibles! My coupe didn't leak, AND the sunroof worked! It was great!



Until it actually rained, because my defrost didn't work, and my wiper switch was sketchy.

So discovered the MOP codes were due to the connectors being dirty. read the proper ohms on my multimeter at the MOP but half the connector at the top of the engine was dead (no reading). Thought it was a short, removed the wiring going from the MOP to the top of the engine, cleaned the connectors, verified wasn't shorted with my multimeter and reinstalled. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.gif



Now I've got code 17, All I could find out is its "feedback system" whatever that means...



Also I'm getting an intermittent miss at idle, but I think that could be due to a damaged TPS wire thats running on field repairs ATM. Will be stripping the wire ends and soldering it tomorrow.