Let's Do This Alternator Convo Again... - Page 2 - NoPistons -Mazda Rx7 & Rx8 Rotary Forum
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2nd Generation Specific 1986-1992 Discussion

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Old 05-29-2004, 11:21 PM   #11  
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can prolly make the spacers too if someone gets demensions
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Old 05-29-2004, 11:22 PM   #12  
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Yea I'll get some dims when I get this alternator here, hard to say we'll see whats up with the s4 then go from there.
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Old 05-30-2004, 09:44 AM   #13  
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every auto parts store I have ever been in has the pigtails in

stock at all times, shouldnt be hard to find, very common
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Old 05-30-2004, 10:29 AM   #14  
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i bored banzai's alternator pulley out for a friend on a mill. It works fine. The only bad thing i have to say about the pulley is it is damn heavy.
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Old 05-30-2004, 12:36 PM   #15  
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here is my take on this, pretty lengthy,



I have mine setup to run on the stock FD pulley, i had to change the lower and waterpump pulleys to the 13b cosmo units and shift the alternator foward in order to get the belt to align properly and also to clear my IC pipe. As far as rewiring, anyone running a relay is wrong, anyone arguing over which wire goes on the top and which ones goes on the bottom is also wrong.



solder the L plug to the dash warning light and the S plug to B+ (battery constant). Doing otherwise will make the alternator think that is needs to be charging the battery when the car is off and can fry the internal regulator, it will also create a high output condition while the car is running, thats why people are seeing 14.7V and think its a good thing, it isn't.



here is a pic of the washer shims, if you mod the Vbelt pulley to work, you won't have to deal with this i think.

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Old 05-30-2004, 12:42 PM   #16  
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my alt was 165 shipped new from canada.
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Old 05-30-2004, 01:06 PM   #17  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djgiantrobot' date='May 30 2004, 10:42 AM
my alt was 165 shipped new from canada.
Yea well that price has went up I'd like to get something that's lower then the new $190 plus shipping price, new and puts out more power!



We'll see how this alternator I ordered bolts up and go from there. It doesn't have the ears, it mounts on the inside of the mounting plate. Hoping to eliminate the lack of adjustment that Mazdadrifter found after he did the FD swap. I'm sure if I'll have to bore this alternator or not, the dual pulley might slip right on and for guys that don't need the dual pulley or already have it are looking at $158
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Old 05-30-2004, 01:07 PM   #18  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djgiantrobot' date='May 30 2004, 10:36 AM
solder the L plug to the dash warning light and the S plug to B+ (battery constant). Doing otherwise will make the alternator think that is needs to be charging the battery when the car is off and can fry the internal regulator, it will also create a high output condition while the car is running, thats why people are seeing 14.7V and think its a good thing, it isn't.
**** I need to tell Kris to do that, it's because the FD alternator is Load sensing.
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Old 05-30-2004, 06:08 PM   #19  
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I am a little suspicious of the wiring on my FD alternator. I *think* it works fine but if I left the car for a week the battery would be weak.



We went in depth on the evil forum a while ago, I'll pull it up later on and bring the general idea over here. I'm tired from travelling right now but normally I have lots of good things to say about the FD alternator.



Only one being was the wiring which was just a guess, could have been a weak battery on my part too.



I'll post more bits later when I gather everything..
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Old 05-30-2004, 06:11 PM   #20  
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BTW I had followed instruction perfect for my wiring so as per the guys who did the info digging mine was up to snuff. But I was a little suspicious after reading a few things and a discussion we had a while ago, and I left my car for a week and when I came back the battery was very weak. Apparently the load on battery wasn't enough to make a notice if you drove the car each day when you started it in the morning. But leaving it for a week was another story.
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