Baldy

My dad's '88 vert had an oil leak at the oil bypass valve. I removed it, tested the valve just for kicks (149*F, 5mm), and it worked fine. The washer didn't look right, so I replaced the washer and bolt from the one from my parts car, which had a washer that fit properly. Started it up, and it still leaked. So bad that you can wipe it off, and watch a drip form within 15 seconds. Should I just try a brand new washer? What else can we try?



Anyone know the torque value of the big bolt?

Baldy

I just thought of this, could the oil cooler have a crack in it, like from over-tightening the bolt?

j9fd3s

it might. try a new washer first

C. Ludwig

Like j9 said try a new washer. Obviously make sure everything is clean and apply a fine layer of silicone to both sides of the crush washer before you bolt it together.



If it still leaks it's most likely cracked. It can and does happen.

Baldy

It's cracked. My dad said he put JB weld on it (yuck), if it still leaks he'll get it welded, I also have a spare oil cooler we could try.

j9fd3s

welding works and its cheap

banzaitoyota

Welding works, but you need to have the weldor preheat to remove the embedded oil. Make sure he knows its an OIL cooler. If he charges more than $50 buy another used cooler

j9fd3s

yep. usually welding is like $20-$30

Baldy

We're gonna slap the used one on from my parts car. Should I bother trying to clean it out or anything? Or is that useless unless I pay a pro to do it?

Baldy

Anyone know the torque values for tightening the cooler lines on the cooler? I couldn't find it in Haynes or the FSM online.