im going to be replacing my injector o-rings very soon (next few days maybe thursday or sunday) any advice on how easy/hard it is would be great
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It's pretty straightforward. Hardest part is getting to them. Just be sure to lube the new o-rings with oil before you jam the injectors back in the holes.
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after you finish, put the fuel system together, and with the intake still off, jump the fuel pump test connector, and make sure there is no leak.
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i think i read somewhere use gas to lube the o-rings? and how do you jump the pump
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yeah the shop manual says to use gas, oil works too.
theres a little yellow connector by the air box, if you jump the 2 pins together, and turn the key on the fuel pump will run |
Originally Posted by j9fd3s' post='921113' date='Apr 29 2009, 12:37 PM
after you finish, put the fuel system together, and with the intake still off, jump the fuel pump test connector, and make sure there is no leak.
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should there be like a half dozen o-rings for each injector or what
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Originally Posted by RicerJ' post='921141' date='Apr 29 2009, 11:27 PM
should there be like a half dozen o-rings for each injector or what
the pic is confusing... there is an upper o ring 8574-13-253? that seals the injector to the fuel rail, these need to be changed, if fuel is leaking this is the problem there is an upper grommet/spacer thing 8574-13-252 that also needs to be changed, they get rock hard there is a lower engine to injector seal, these will be a vacuum leak if its bad n326-13-257 there are 2 orings below that, but they sit on a plastic insulator IN the engine, and if you break the plastic bit then the lower intake needs to come off. i forget the number to these its like 1252 something. these are also vacuum leaks there is one of each, for each injector, so the whole car gets 4 of everything, except the lower lower oring which is qty of 8 |
i got 4 of the beck arnley 158-0177 sets from kragen since i didnt want to drive to roseville to get parts from a dealer
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