Yeah... i accidently took mine to about 8300. No limiter there.

yeah......but isent your car a s5, witch redlines at 8k?

ok, go out there and floor your car...the needle doesnt just keep spinning.. generally around 8500 it stops moving (depending on year/model..bla bla bla)



anyway...wanna know a GREAT rev limiter?



your FOOT.



kevin.

Don't waste your money on the digital boxes. All that you need is the regular box(ie. msd-6al, crane hi-6, etc.). You will also need three of these to upgrade your entire ignition. One for the leading coil and two for the trailing coil. The reason you need two for the trailing is because it has two coils controlled by one ignitor. It should be straight forward on the wiring and the only problem you might have is finding a spot to mount all three boxes. BTW if you don't want to go with all three I would suggest just upgrading the leading only and then upgrading the trailing later. This will keep you from overpowering the the leading plug which is the primary plug for ignition. Hope this helps.

im gonna disagree

you should https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png. im just playing stoopid https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png.



Rev limiters are a 'fail-safe' in case something unpredictable happens (stuck throttle, whatever) or if youre just stupid. either way its always good to have a preventative measure in place whether its a fuel cut, ignition rev limiter etc.



my t2 has one built into the wolf so im good.



kevin.

i wont. you guys have heard the story about our race car, so i'll tell the other one here.



theres a guy, mike johnson, of johnson racing engines, who built motors for some guy. they used revlimiters on the motors, this one guy kept having engine failures, while the rest of his customers didnt. i dont know how they figured out the problem, but they removed the rev limiter and his engine problems went away.



it seems like over a certain rpm range (8000+) that revlimiters are violent enough that it can cause more damage than overrevving the motor. actually in our case it caused more damage than enything else ive ever seen.

sorry for digging this 3 year old thread up haha.



i was thinking about a rev-limiter by ignition cut-off for my car. The Power FC has a REV-Limit function in it, but its a fuel-cut type.. very bad on a rotary.. so i set it up to the highest point possible (9900rpm), so i am sure NOT hitting it. I have been told that only the ignition limiter would be ok on a rotary engine.. after i read j9fd3s post, i am a bit confused https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/wacko.gif



was it an ignition limiter, or just a fuel-cut type? I could just control my foot.. yes.. but i am not the best driver out there, and if i loose grip (to have some fun haha) its easily possible to overrev the engine.. so it would be nice to me, to have a safe-rev-limiter, but dont want to damage my engine either.

Shutting off the car or hitting a fuel cut switch is good enough for me! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.gif

well, it seems MSD offers a low-cost CDI named "StreetFire", here is the link to it: http://www.street-fire.com/cdiignition.html



Not much data about it, but its lower on amps compared to the MSD 6AL.



MSD 6 AL:

Current Requirements:

5 Amps-5,000 RPM

10 Amps-10,000 RPM



Street Fire:

Current Requirements:

3.5 Amps-5,000 RPM

7 Amps-10,000 RPM



also the rev-limit on the 6 AL is via Modules that you plug in. The StreetFire unit has rotors like the Crane Hi-6.



all the other stuff seems to be the same, well whats the deal with the current requirement stuff? Is it better to have a higher requirement like the 6AL does?



is it also possible to USE the rev-limiter with only one box? via relais, which turn off the trailing ignition also?