ok so i bought my fc a couple weeks ago it ran fine, the next day it was really cold and it wouldn't start i tried to boosting but nothing so i left it. i tried starting again a couple days ago but it won't start it would just crank and crank, it sounds like it wants to start but nothing, i tried deflooding it and still nothing, my battery is good i have spark its getting fuel good compression

Deflooding can sometimes take a lot of cranking time. Since you have compression, spark and fuel and you say it sounds like it wants to start, I would try it again. I don't know what it says for this in the FAQs but I just pull the fuel cut relay, hold accelerator pedal down all the way and crank starter.



The subzero starting assist is supposed to operate at 3 deg F or lower. If the outside air temp is at this level you can check the start fluid level in the tank behind the right front strut tower. 90% antifreeze, 10% water if you need to add any. And check operation of system if the temp is such that it is supposed to be operating. That is, make sure it sprays into the intake.

oh yeah, when i was plugging in my car it smelt like something was burning so i unhooked it, could it be my coils ?

Since you have spark I wouldn't be concerned about the coils. Could the jumper cables have been getting hot, especially if they are thin ones? Or, sometimes the cable going to a starter will get hot with a lot of cranking.



Did it smell right when you connected or during charging or cranking?

Please clarify this statement. It doesn't make any sense to me.

it started to smell after i cranked the car, i had my friend who owns a fd but knows only a little about rotaries look at it and he told me its just flooded because if the tach bounces while cranking my coils are still good is he right ?

The coils/igniters are completely separate for the leading and trailing ignitions. The leadings pretty much provide all of the performance of the engine but the tachometer works off of the trailing ignition. If you are getting spark at the leading plugs, the lower ones, the leading coil should be good.

i tried starting my car again and it almost started, so i decided to deflood it and it started but then died right away i did this a couple times and it kept doing the same thing

If you keep trying it sounds like you'll get it. Keeping it running after flooding can be difficult. In my experiences it could take up to one minute of running for things to smooth out. If you have the fuel cut off with the fuel cut relay or a fuse you have to enable the fuel at the right time to keep it going but not so early as to flood it some more. You typically get very rough running and a lot of smoke when working through this.

i got my car started today after deflooding it many times but now it runs like crap i have no power in the lower rpm range below 4k and the tach keeps moving up and down

Some more info would help. How does it idle, if at all, etc.



When it flooded had you done something to cause this like starting the car cold and then shutting it off quickly. Or, was it seemingly inexplicable?



Since it flooded maybe you could put a stethoscope probe or piece of wire between the intake pipes to listen or feel for the injectors to see if they seem to be operating normally.



If you have a gauge you could take the fuel pressure.



More description and any info you can gather will help.

it idles at 2500 at start up and then it goes down to 1500 after, my brother was the one who flooded it he moved my car before it warmed up and he shut it off too quickly

Idles at 1500 rpm even after fully warmed-up? You could start by checking it for intake air leaks.



As for tachometer, I assumed you mean that it spikes up or drops way down sometimes, out of sync with engine speed. This could be an isolated problem and not related to the bad running of the engine. It is just wired off of the trailing ignition and the trailing doesn't do much for the running of the car. The trailing can be completely disabled and the cars usually run fine.



Does it miss at idle? Or does it idle well?

Also, I would check and make sure you have good spark at both of the leading plugs, just as a matter of making some basic checks before moving beyond.

I assume that you know how check spark in a safe manner. I don't know what your experience level is. If you don't, post back and I'll give you some suggestions.

no i dont know how to check for spark

here's the video of car idling



MOV01280.flv video by L1lflip - Photobucket

Ok, I see what you mean by the tach going up and down. It looks like it is working ok, just reflecting the cycling of the idle speed. However, I don’t know at this point what is wrong. Maybe with your video someone else might get an idea and jump in here. Until then, we can just try to work the problem and see what we come up with.



In the video, the car was not warmed up but it looked like the oil pressure was very low. It being cold should help the oil pressure to be higher but still looked low as best as I could tell. I couldn’t see the oil press. gauge well but it looked like it was low. Low oil pressure would make the engine condition a concern, bearing clearances, etc.



The idle speed is high and cycling up and down. I am assuming that this just started and that it used to idle much lower like 750-1000 rpm and was basically steady.



If you follow the black air piping from the air cleaner to the throttle body somewhere there is a smaller hose that comes off the black air piping and goes to the BAC, bypass air control, that controls the idle. The BAC is mounted to the throttle body. It is cylindrical and has an electrical connector. With some pliers pinch the hose completely off and see what happens to the idle. Will it idle at all, if so at what speed, does this up and down cycling of the idle speed stop, i.e. does it idle steady?



I would also check for air leaks in the intake manifold. This could cause rough running and a high idle speed. You should be able to find descriptions of various methods of how to do this. One involves running propane gas around to see if there is anywhere that it gets sucked into the intake, changing the idle speed, and therefore pinpointing the leak.

Ok, I see what you mean by the tach going up and down. It looks like it is working ok, just reflecting the cycling of the idle speed. However, I don’t know at this point what is wrong. Maybe with your video someone else might get an idea and jump in here. Until then, we can just try to work the problem and see what we come up with.



In the video, the car was still cold but it looked like the oil pressure was very low. It being cold should help the oil pressure to be higher but still looked low as best as I could tell. I couldn’t see the oil press. gauge well but it looked like it was low. Low oil pressure would make the engine condition a concern, bearing clearances, etc.



In video looks like idle is 1500 with the car cold. What is it when fully warmed up? If it is still high, that is >1000 rpm you could start with the following. If speed is normal we can try other things.



If you follow the black air piping from the air cleaner to the throttle body somewhere there is a smaller hose that comes off the black air piping and goes to the BAC, bypass air control, that controls the idle. The BAC is mounted to the throttle body. It is cylindrical and has an electrical connector. With some pliers pinch the hose completely off and see what happens to the idle. Will it idle at all, if so at what speed, does this up and down cycling of the idle speed stop, i.e. does it idle steady?



I would also check for air leaks in the intake manifold. This could cause rough running and a high idle speed. You should be able to find descriptions of various methods of how to do this. One involves running propane gas around to see if there is anywhere that it gets sucked into the intake, changing the idle speed, and therefore pinpointing the leak.

it idles at about 700-800 when fully warmed up

So air leaks are not the problem then.



When warmed up does it misfire at idle or does it run smoothly? If it misfires you can hear an irregularity in the exhaust if you stand at the back of the car. The tachometer will reflect a misfire; it will make the tach needle drop briefly. You should be able to feel it when you are sitting in the car. When looking at the engine you may see it shake when it misfires.



Does the idle speed still cycle up and down after its warmed up like it did in the video it was cold.

nope it doesn't misfire, my car has no power it starts up fine but it won't move i tried flooring it and nothing and it also smelt like burning rubber

When you floor it, does the engine speed increase, does the engine rev or does it just do nothing. If engine does not rev up it is with the engine, if it does rev up then maybe you have a clutch problem. With the burning smell, it could be that the clutch is slipping and burning off the friction surface of the clutch disc.



If you floored it in gear, with the clutch out(not depressed), the engine reved and it smelled like you said it is probably the clutch.

yeah it rev's up but it doesn't move, i'll have a look at my clutch