Does anyone local (NYC,NJ central or north) have templates? I was going to just wing it but im rethinking that. Any input will also be appreciated.



Edit: templates to borrow and return afterwards. TIA

I wouldnt wing it if its your first time out...



Just grab some templates from RB... they arent too expensive...

i dont see any 6 port bridge temps

anyone? has anyone here done this?

looking at your sig, you seem to be paint happy. black now orange then pink? sorry, i dont know of a place with templates. post in the engine building section maybe

Make your own....

whats it to you if i am paint happy, just a note i am still debating on the pink.

oh and thanks for your input.

good point, but i dont know how far i should go thats the problem to begin with.

i have a 6 port also

Yea, sorry.. I didn't notice you were a 6 porter...



The only real thing is, you have to really figure this one out.. bridged 6 ports is a lot of ports, lol. You say your going full bridge, but why? I'm not being an ass, just gauging for more information. You will more than likely have to make your own templates unless you find somebody who has already done this. I would focus on the primary ports more so than the 5th and 6th ports... not sure how the results will turn out for top end power...



Things to keep in mind.. stay out of the water jacket, and don't go so far that you have to cut into the housing... this is considered a Large bridge or sometimes a J-bridge...



Is this going to be your first rebuild ever?

BTW, why did you get a tach that reads to 8K? Our cars do that already... if you go bridge, you'll make peak power 8K or or higher, so that tach may not be what you need at all anymore....



Also, think of the power curve of the motor, porting changes all of that; if you plan to go full bridge, you may want to look into a scattershield, rb stationary gears, etc... things that you have to look at when revving the motor past 8500 IMHO...

yes it is actually my first build.

i dont plan on revving past 8k.

i have heard of 13b's going as high as 11k, how obtainable is that? what is needed?

my ecu is stock injectors are stock

i dont plan on making it j-bridge at all, im looking for a bridge but nothing crazy.

i think porting the 5th and 6th ports will ehlp with high end power since they help with flow.

You keeping stock ECU on a bridged 6port? Um....





Either way, the reason I say the top end might get affected is the fact that the additional air intake/direction may cause turbulence w/ the extra ports... i could be talking out my ass, but its just a thought.



11K is way out of the realm of a daily driver...



If you don't plan on going past 8K, then why are you bridge porting the motor? I'm trying to figure out why your doing this...



Also, for a first build, I wouldn't doing anything past a sp...thats how I started; if i had done a bridge port... I would have cut the ports too sharp and messed up a few times, not to mention the additional tuning involved...



These are all things to think about...

I just finished mine you may want to rethink this. Mine still runs like crap. no vacume at idle. Noting below 3k. I'm running mine on the track so it isn't a problem but on the street good luck. Some of the problem may be I'm not as smart as I thought I was. I'm having a really tough time tuning. I made my own tekmplates an ruined a couple of plates.

Sorry to be a naysayer, but I don't think it's going to run on the stock ECU at all. I would not do this whatsoever unless you had a full standalone in the car.



B

party poopers, i want some brap brap noise https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png

i dont plan on making extreme levels of power nor high revs.

but i want more power than i have now even if it is only up high, it is not a daily driver, i only drive it to drift events , or maybe a couple hours on the weekend(rarely).

I too would be shocked if it would even idle on a stock ecu, let alone drive or boost...

He's not turbo E... na 6port... lol, I missed it the first time too.





Ok, your probably going to really consider me an ass... but if you want the bridge for the idle exhaust note... I'm just going to have to go out on a limb here and call you a ricer. Don't take it too personally, but lets look at it, you like to paint things... you have an 8K RPM tach on a car that has one factory.. not to mention..the tach serves no purpose over the stocker aside from looks...



Also, if you "drift" your car ...bridge porting an NA is NOT want you want.. I consider myself to be a good driver and as more events allow me, a pretty good drifter and you want torque and hp lower on the drift course... a bridge port is not going to help you on the drift circuit in NA... now my other 13B that I plan to put in my FC is a bridge motor, but it's boosted at 1.7bar, torque isn't a problem...



Seriously, think about how we see this... you really need to consider what you want.

god damn leo, long time no see. I'm moving to colorado in a few days.



these kids dont know their history very well!



I've driven with you and i think that what you want to do is a great idea, but i have no experience on FULL bridgeing



Judge ITO did a 6 port full bridge, It was faster than most of these guys T2's. Stock ECU, injectors and exhaust. Contact vosko, juan (ITO) retired or closed down his shop from what i understand. When i saw him at rotorfest last year, he said it was reliable setup that was fast and easy to drive. I bridged the 5th and 6th ports on my vert, and i hated it, peaky shitty motor......full bridge it or go home!



Look in the video section http://www.vosko.net/media/burnout/ . The video is called bridgesixportburnout.

i was actually being sarcastic about the idle!

i am in no way a ricer.

i changed my paint because i can.

i am planning on doing this since it has been done before with stock parts, including ecu.

i have the most important things already.

drifting an fc as you know is hard as it is, taking away low end which it already doesnt have makes no difference to me, i usually drift while the rpms are very high i.e. over 5,800-8k so the fact that all the power it will produce will be up top, is no issue for me.

the tach i have was from an old supercoupe that i had so i used it on this one since it is much more accurate than the stock.



again to emphasize my reason for doing this:

i want to do it because i can!

i dont drive the car more than 10 times a year (maybe) so driveability is not a factor for me, i dont however want to spend money on it either for that same reason.

some people here know me, and can tell you im no ricer.

WHATS UP YO!!!

how have you been?

i have been so busy with work and ****.

i was thinking of calling vosko since him and the judge go way back and i remember ITO doing this with a white one.

thanks for having my back on this, good times driving up to CT i remember.

WTF are you moving to CO for?

I need change, my life has been on a downward spiral for the last 2 years.



I lost your phone # a while ago, and you havent been here in SOO long. What they also dont know is that the stock dash, according to the data-ac i had in the car is terribly inaccurate above 6k rpm.



I'd love to help you out with the rebuild, but i can't dood.



Here is what i have to say though. Look at the mot competitive D1 and Formula D cars. You'll quite a few carburated, 1.6-2.0L NA AE86's in there. They are lucky if they have 140 ft-lbs on a good day, and they drift great. Those motors are just as, if not more "peaky and high strung" than a full bridged 13b



my 2 cents -nick

thats kool.

just as i said before i just want to do it because i can https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png

if i blow it up then so be it ill find another motor and do it all over again

you of all people understand

so i guess everyone just decided to avoid this post now?

i think you'd have more power by running a stand alone and a street port....



if you're gonna bridge it, do a 4 port bridge, and well you still need an ecu or a carb

thanks for your input, but heres my dilemma again, i dont want to spend money on this project, in fact i want to see if i can get it done without spending money. i want to put in bigger injectors and thats it, thats exactly what ITO did with his 6-port. dont forget im not looking for this engine to last 100k miles

I have a street driven 6 port full bridge NA. For a while I ran it on the stock ECU with an SAFC II, 720cc secondaries, and an FD fuel pump.



It's retardedly loud,and has NO TORQUE AT ALL below 4.5k.



I'm currently working on a Megasquirt setup for it, and plan on getting some dyno numbers before it gets boosted https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png

Here is a shitty pic taken during porting (best I can find at the moment), we used Devcon Plastic Steel Putty to smooth up the end of the aux ports. Zavier @ rx7store did the actual porting since I had just started learning. We didn't have a template to go by.



As I said before, these ports yeild virtually no low end. But if you plan to keep the RPM in the 5-9k range the whole time, go for it.



If you've got any questions about a full bridge 6 port, feel free to ask.



Jacob @ rx7store

did you dyno yet? if so how where the numbers?

any video?

Look up my thread... "when disaster strikes". There are very detailed pictures of my 6 port full BP. I do run a carb, the engine is not peaky, it is a j-bridge and I do daily drive it. Look in the dyno sheets section and you will find a dyno sheet of initial tunning as well as after all improvements.



Theres your templates and theres your proof. If you build it right and you think it through nothing is more fun than a 6 port BP.

searched your thread, but doesnt come up with anything

I ran a LARGE half bridge TII housings with S5 N/A rotors on a stock N/A ECU... ran like ass... I had large injectors... etc... It was either ideling or full throttle, there was absolutly no mid range at all. It had like 50 horsepower between 2500 and 5000 RPM(ok, im kidding a little. Maybe more like 75HP.) If your gonna do it, then your gonna want to use a stand alone or a good piggyback, if there is such a thing.

THANK YOU!!!

hey i still have my carb setup for sale



http://members.aol.com/red1373/holley1.jpeg