should i see oil going up the lines? honestly, the lines look clear...i couldn't tell for sure, cause it was dusk, but i was wondering if there's an easy way to tell if it's working right https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.gif

you should see oil in the lines. the s4 pump is mechanical though so i dont really see how it wouldnot be workin

factory test is to pull a line off, and measure what comes out...

pull it out up by where it injects? that seems really tough to do :(



edit: oh yea, how quick will they take to fill if they were empty? (since i had them disconnected from the omp for so long)

the reason i ask is cause im wondering if that's the source of my throttle hesitation...logically not (to me), but i just figured i'd ask

they should fill right up.

hmmm...im really beginning to wonder if it's malfunctioning, perhaps it's clogged? is it easy to pull off? if i pull it off, do i need to empty the oil (will it start draining out?)

it does like 4cc a minute or something, its a very small amount.

right...so pull the line from where it injects by the manifold? i assume i gotta pull the uim to be able to get to it?

that test was easier on the older ones, these newer ones are kinda lame. id pull a line off the metering pump, and see what comes out

in terms of the car running, could i tell if it wasn't running? as in, would it run rough?

I believe a completely dead OMP would cause rapid wear that would soon kill the engine, but the presence (or lack thereof) of that small amount of oil would not change the way the engine ran until the damage was done.

Unbolt the 4 lines from the OMP and run the engine at around 2000 rpm, hold the control arm up and watch for a slow flow of oil. If you see oil flowing, I bet 100% its pumping what it needs to.



The mechanical pump is very reliable and if it does become clogged, I hope nothing else is ruined, such as rotor bearings. Nothing but filtered oil should flow through the OMP.

thanks for the info. there's been a few omp threads lately, so i've learned quite a bit about it https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.gif



but didn't you just mean unbolt one of the four lines? you wouldn't wanna unbolt every line, would you???



i figure that when i do my rebuild and switch to pull from a 2-stroke reservoir that i'll pull the omp and clean it and replace the lines (they look to be quite old)

id replace the lines as soon as you could if they are questionable, those are the main way that the OMP system (not the OMP itself) fails.



This was a much nicer OMP thread than many...

Same here. BTW topless, I did some testing on the OMP and found that it produces no pressure. Infact the OMP wouldn't even syphon oil when there was resistance in the flow and would actually pump the fluid backwards at times. I didn't do all the testing that I wanted to, but this is one test and found it to be interesting. I plugged up all 3 holes and hooked a air pressure gauge to only one hole and the above happened. What I wanted to do was hooked all 4 lines up to a manifold and have one outlet which would be attached to a pressure gauge.



Reason I said pull one line is so the engine can still be lubricated.



There was a thread I was involved in on rx7club about the OMP. I wish it was up and running so you could view that.



Here is what my setup will be.

http://www.globalvicinity.com/images....8863_7014.jpg

http://www.globalvicinity.com/images....3039_3741.jpg



The OMP is a pump its self and will syphon the fluid from any resivoir. Try not to have the resi above above the oil injectors because even though the tolerences in the OMP are tight, the 2 stroke could still gravity feed into the OMP, through the lines and out the injectors. Not that this would be a bad thing as long as it was going into the injectors on the engine. If it was feeding into the injectors on the intake manifold, you would have a puddle of oil doing nothing.



Also, there have been a few people thinking the OMP is a high pressure , low flow pump. This is absolutly incorrect. Yes it is a low flow pump but by no means is it high pressure, nor does it ever produce pressure that can be read by a mechanical gauge. Any resistance in the flow, such as at the injector, will stop the flow of oil immediatly.



On turboed engines, I bet you wonder how oil can be injected if the intake manifold is pressurized right? Well at the LIM, there is would be no real pressure even if you were boosting because of how the rotor expands the combustion chamber at the intake.



When you do your 2 stroke conversion, you should take the OMP apart, inspect and clean the OMP internally.

- With compressed air, blow out all the ports in the OMP and in the distribution cylinder which is at the front of the OMP while the driver gear cylinder is at the rear.

- Inspect for any severe damages or warn parts and replace part(s) if necessary;

- - Deep scratches on cylinders or internal walls of the OMP

- - Warn drive worm gear and drive gear cylinder. A warn drive gear cylinder will have the gear portion con-caved or V'ed slightly. The teeth should go straight across.

- - Broken plunger spring.

- Use 2000 grit sand paper and wet sand any metal surfaces to get rid of any tiny burrs, scratches or scuffs that could potentially cause the OMP to fail. Do not sand coated areas.

- Check to make sure plunger and spring assembly moves freely in and out of the distribution cylinder. If not, clean the distribution cylinder out with degreeser and air. Also use 2000 grit sand paper on the plunger as well.

- Make sure all the o-rings are not leaking. This could potentially cause the OMP to syphon air in and inject air bubbles in the oil injector lines. Bad o-rings could also cause oil leaks. Black RTV works well for the end plates.

Please See http://howto.globalvicinity.com/gv_wiki.ph...p;co=1&vi=1 for more information on rebuilding the OMP.

Crap, I did mean to unbolt ONE line. Sorry for the confusion. I re read what I wrote so I posted this. I would unbolt one line at a time to make sure oil flows from each hole.

ah, ok, thats good to know. I may eventually make an adapter block and tank to use 2-stroke with the OMP, but for now i have too many projects already.

I think rotary Aviation or something like that makes an adaptor block for all the OMP types out there.

thanks, that's exactly the rebuild doc i was going to refer to when i take mine off and clean it, etc! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.gif

damn, those pictures were working a second ago. o well. I wil have my writeup done soon enough.

the pump just died (or something!) in my 79, and its hard to explain but the engine as it runs out of oil will make a fluttery/scraping noise, the seals start scraping on the housing, but its cyclic, because the seals are moving.



diagnosis was easy, i threw some premix in the tank, and it shutup, and it does run a bit smoother too.



omp tests are a couple days away, mines pumping, but its full of air

When I did my test of the OMP, I used my drill to spin the OMP which spins at around 3400rpm. One large factor I forgot to realize is the gear reduction that takes place while the OMP is driven by the engine.



The OMP spins much much faster then I would ever be able to spin it with my drill and HAILERS on the other forum did the test while it was on his engine and the PSI to raise about 40psi as the rpms increase on ONE line while the others were blocked. Same test I did except it was on the car.



So just to correct the info I put up.