My car now does this. It never did it before until I tighted up the clamps on the intercooler pipe??? Is there a way to stop this?

if you tap the gas after it starts it wont do that. or you can cap off the aws valve hoses



mike

I tried that. Reved it to about 2000 and it went back to 1500. I even stuck it in 1st and drove about a meter to see if that would stop it but no luck. Where are the AWS hoses. Do I clamp them off only when it warming up or all the time?

oh australia? on the us cars the aws valve is right on top of the intake manifold picture its the little black valve on top of the intake manifold.



mike

Thanks Mike,



I will have a look when I get home tonight. I hope it has one there. I just Imported her from Japan about 2 months ago.

oh well then it wont have it. you say it idles at 1500prms when its cold? they have a fast idle when the car is cold if you follow the throttle body coolant hoses you will find it



mike

thats the fast idle, not the AWS.

theres a difference?

apparently



mike

Does the idle go down once its warmed up?

Why not just let the car warm itself up?

jus do the tb mod

Yeah it stops when it's warm and drops down to about 750 800 RPM. I just thought it warming up at 1500 would cause more damage then warming up at 750.



What is a TB mod RX7ryder?

the thermo wax holds it at 1500rpm till it warms up. without that on a cold day it would just stall. it won't hold a 750 idle while cold. you'll have to hold your gas pedal down a bit everytime you start it...



as for the AWS. that revs the car to 3000rpm for the fist 20 secs or so. so a "proper" working 2nd gen when starting cold, will rev to 3000 for 20 secs then drop to 1500 till it reaches 160+F.



now the AWS is for emmsions only. to warm the cats faster. if you just start it in gear it doesn't happen. I always start mine in gear. the 3000 rev while dead cold is just stupid.



but now the 1500 thermowax is nice. I'm gona miss it when I do the TB mod at the end of the winter.

so why do the tb mod?



mike

I believe if you put in an Atkins thermal pellet and eliminate the thermal wax you will have less of a chance for engine damage since the engine will get oil at warm up.

haha, different thermal wax



mike

To get rid of hot coolant flowing through the TB, to clean things up, to prevent damage when cold, to get rid of intake restrictions:secondary throttle plates, to make throttle more responsive.Supposably T2s gain 1psi of boost completly stock, n/as gain a little top end maybe 1-2hp.

power, better response and turbo spool up, and better on/ off throttle smothness. I'm sacificing the 5 mins or warm up for hours of better driving afterwards https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png



me new TB https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png going on in Feb or so

http://www.1300cc.com/TB/

you could leave the thermowax on it and do the rest of it



mike

Sorry, well you know what I mean. :redface:

To get rid of hot coolant flowing through the TB, to clean things up, to prevent damage when cold, to get rid of intake restrictions:secondary throttle plates, to make throttle more responsive.Supposably T2s gain 1psi of boost completly stock, n/as gain a little top end maybe 1-2hp.[/quote]

you can eliminate the double throttle without eliminating the thermowax.



but I still prefer less coolant hoses, so I eliminated my thermowax and plugged those holes.

what i notice is if you start the car in gear then the engine won't climb to 3000 upon igintion

I read somewhere recently that u can simply unplug a wire which connects to the bottom of the radiator to prevent the 3000rpm surge at startup.



Why would mazda have chosen to make it rev so high when cold.... it seems strange. (although the 1500rpm idle is a good idea to help warm the car up faster)

i don't think you would want to do that, that would make your car run rich i believe.