Ok guys...how do these little magic boxes work? I have a 1991 N/A, and from what I heard, a CDI box would help performance a bit, increase mileage, and smooth out revving. I want to install One (1) CDI box, either MSD 6A or Crane Hi-6. I know the box would connect to the (+) and (-) terminals on the leading coil assembly, but what does it do then? How does it work?



Is one box enough for a strretported n/a? I know Vosko has 3 of them...I dont think I need that many!

Thanks...please be as detailed as possible.

i beleive the quantity of boxes is just needed because of the way ignition works on a rotary. I think it's one per rotor on trailing then the third handles leading for both rotors.

pengaru is correct

thanks vosko https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png



now... why do you think you need these? The stock ignition on the 7 is quite good and you're running an NA, I'm sure there are plenty of things you could do with the money that would make more of a difference.

Well...your point is well taken. I would like to put a box on because 1) I'm getting hesitation/hiccuing about 7k. I dont know if its spark/fuel/air of Slipping clutch related. 2) beacuse I really want a smooth idle, and better gas mileage.



I recently put in a rebuild engine. So fairly new plugs/wires, new fuel filter, clean injectors, new ACT s/s clutch w/HD PP. So, I am raking my brain as to why its hesitating at 7k!



So...can I use only one CDI box for leading, and leave trailing alone?

one on the leading coil will be more than sufficient on an all-motor application

Malory ignitions are the funk

its what we are using at the shop now

and they are cheaper than MSD's

only about 118. :bigok:

what plugs are you using ?

you really don't care about leading, it's not that significant. The trailing is what is really important for power and correct operation.



Your problems i'm 99.99999999999% sure are not your ignition system being a limitation.



You likely installed your street port motor? right?



there are so many variables on the stock ECU it's not even funny, what do you have left on it? rats nest eliminated?



did you replace the vacuum lines when you installed the motor? You could be running out of fuel, but... I doubt thats the case on an NA, even street ported. Have you confirmed your timing is correct, and that everything is connected properly?



A common mistake for people to do is replace the vacuum line on the boost sensor, with a normal line, and forget the orifice which goes in the line. Without it you will have the problems you are describing.

You may have just hit it on the nose. I DID replace all lines with silicone - even the boost sensor one. I was not aware of an orifice in there! DO TELL ME more.

You may have just hit it on the nose. I DID replace all lines with silicone - even the boost sensor one. I was not aware of an orifice in there! DO TELL ME more. [/quote]

well, try finding the old line if you didnt throw it away. It has some colored paint spots on it and there should be a hard section of the hose where the orifice is.



The boost sensor isnt a MAP sensor as most people think... it's kindof wierd actually. But you need that orifice for it to work properly, otherwise the boost sensor will see all sorts of vacuum pulses that it can't deal with. If you did not keep the old hoses j9fd3s can probably come up with a part # of that orifice for you https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png



If you switch to aftermarket engine management you won't care about this stuff, and you'll have a real MAP sensor going right to the dynamic chamber... something to cosiderif you don't have the orifice... and maybe a e6k is sitting in your garage? :yum:

Actually I have 2 E6k's in my basement....right next to the 575m maranello, and the family helicopter. lol



I will def need to get that orifice then...if your comparing getting an orifice to switching to a stand alone ecu - should I be getting scared at how much a new orifice will cost?



Does this affect the performance of the car at lower RPM's. I cant notice a diff from before...but who know's...the engine might be acting really inefficent and would not know it.

nah it shouldnt be expensive and should be easy to correct.



but making the stock ecu behave correctly can be far more of a headache than installing an e6k sometimes. The stock ECU is not well documented and there are many hidden details that tend to bite ya in the ass. In the long run, one is better off going standalone just because it will be fully documented and you will be in _control_. Something you lack greatly on the stock ecu.



You can have the greatest motor build in the world, capable of insane power, but if your stock ecu refuses to cooperate it will never get there. I suspect you will probably have some more issues once you get the orifice, this is just one step.



Did you eliminate the rats nest?

No, I still have hte rats nest. Why you ask - well - I have an S5, so I need the airpump for the 6 ports and VDI.



What issues? I just want to rid the 7k hesitation. I think there is enough fuel (there might be 550 secondaries, a bigger pump and an S-AFC in the future), I might still get one CDI box to better ignition a little. Other than that, where are my weak spots?

just wondering because in rats nest elimination you introduce more variables between the last time it ran right and the current state https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png



some people confuse some stuff when eliminating the rats nest which could cause problems... but since you kept that it should be relatively sane. It might run like a top after you solve that orifice issue. good luck !

actually the boost sensor is a map sensor, the na's us a 1 bar and the t2's use a 2 bar sensor. the haltech can use em' no problem

the oriface part number is 8931-13-986



mike

Is that for the whole hose? Or just the little orifice that I will then need to force into the tight little hole of the silicone hose? (excuse my language, Its been a few weeks).

actually the boost sensor is a map sensor, the na's us a 1 bar and the t2's use a 2 bar sensor. the haltech can use em' no problem

the oriface part number is 8931-13-986



mike [/quote]

it's not used as one traditionally is then, because it doesnt make sense why it's on the single primary intake runner. Not absolute.



actually, mike, have you ever tried running the boost sensor to a different vacuum? like the nipple used for the FPR on the back of the dynamic chamber maybe?



perhaps that would eliminate the need for the orifice.



the way I look at it, it's a 1 bar pressure sensor, BUT it's not used as a MAP sensor on the FC IMO.

Sorry to revive this thread....but I just recieved the orifice in the mail. Its a tiny little black "restrictor pill", and has a bullet type of shape to it. Both sides are tapered, but one side has a much steeper (shorter) taper, while the other side has a gentler taper - more aerodynamic. Which direction does this install? Does the aerodynamic side face the manifold or the pressure sensor?



Also, any reconendations as to how to wedge this orifice into the actual vacc line? The hose is silicone...and thus fairly fragile.



thanks