pengaru

You may have just hit it on the nose. I DID replace all lines with silicone - even the boost sensor one. I was not aware of an orifice in there! DO TELL ME more. [/quote]

well, try finding the old line if you didnt throw it away. It has some colored paint spots on it and there should be a hard section of the hose where the orifice is.



The boost sensor isnt a MAP sensor as most people think... it's kindof wierd actually. But you need that orifice for it to work properly, otherwise the boost sensor will see all sorts of vacuum pulses that it can't deal with. If you did not keep the old hoses j9fd3s can probably come up with a part # of that orifice for you



If you switch to aftermarket engine management you won't care about this stuff, and you'll have a real MAP sensor going right to the dynamic chamber... something to cosiderif you don't have the orifice... and maybe a e6k is sitting in your garage? :yum:

sunshine

Actually I have 2 E6k's in my basement....right next to the 575m maranello, and the family helicopter. lol



I will def need to get that orifice then...if your comparing getting an orifice to switching to a stand alone ecu - should I be getting scared at how much a new orifice will cost?



Does this affect the performance of the car at lower RPM's. I cant notice a diff from before...but who know's...the engine might be acting really inefficent and would not know it.

pengaru

nah it shouldnt be expensive and should be easy to correct.



but making the stock ecu behave correctly can be far more of a headache than installing an e6k sometimes. The stock ECU is not well documented and there are many hidden details that tend to bite ya in the ***. In the long run, one is better off going standalone just because it will be fully documented and you will be in _control_. Something you lack greatly on the stock ecu.



You can have the greatest motor build in the world, capable of insane power, but if your stock ecu refuses to cooperate it will never get there. I suspect you will probably have some more issues once you get the orifice, this is just one step.



Did you eliminate the rats nest?

sunshine

No, I still have hte rats nest. Why you ask - well - I have an S5, so I need the airpump for the 6 ports and VDI.



What issues? I just want to rid the 7k hesitation. I think there is enough fuel (there might be 550 secondaries, a bigger pump and an S-AFC in the future), I might still get one CDI box to better ignition a little. Other than that, where are my weak spots?

pengaru

just wondering because in rats nest elimination you introduce more variables between the last time it ran right and the current state



some people confuse some stuff when eliminating the rats nest which could cause problems... but since you kept that it should be relatively sane. It might run like a top after you solve that orifice issue. good luck !

j9fd3s

actually the boost sensor is a map sensor, the na's us a 1 bar and the t2's use a 2 bar sensor. the haltech can use em' no problem

the oriface part number is 8931-13-986



mike

sunshine

Is that for the whole hose? Or just the little orifice that I will then need to force into the tight little hole of the silicone hose? (excuse my language, Its been a few weeks).

pengaru

actually the boost sensor is a map sensor, the na's us a 1 bar and the t2's use a 2 bar sensor. the haltech can use em' no problem

the oriface part number is 8931-13-986



mike [/quote]

it's not used as one traditionally is then, because it doesnt make sense why it's on the single primary intake runner. Not absolute.



actually, mike, have you ever tried running the boost sensor to a different vacuum? like the nipple used for the FPR on the back of the dynamic chamber maybe?



perhaps that would eliminate the need for the orifice.



the way I look at it, it's a 1 bar pressure sensor, BUT it's not used as a MAP sensor on the FC IMO.

sunshine

Sorry to revive this thread....but I just recieved the orifice in the mail. Its a tiny little black "restrictor pill", and has a bullet type of shape to it. Both sides are tapered, but one side has a much steeper (shorter) taper, while the other side has a gentler taper - more aerodynamic. Which direction does this install? Does the aerodynamic side face the manifold or the pressure sensor?



Also, any reconendations as to how to wedge this orifice into the actual vacc line? The hose is silicone...and thus fairly fragile.



thanks