Here's the issues.



The car runs perfectly at all temperatures. The car starts perfectly when cold or semi-warm. After it comes up to operating temperature and you turn it off, it will not start back up, even if you try immediately. If I let it sit for 15 minutes or so, it will start right up.



Here's what I've done so far:



1. New wires & NGK plugs.

2. Fuel pump cut-off switch tied to the under-dash relay. It doesn't matter if I kill the fuel to stop the engine, or just turn it off with the key. It still won't start back up, i.e. I don't think it's flooding.

3. New air & fuel filters.

4. Compression within spec, both rotors.

5. Fuel running & hold pressure within spec.

6. Injectors professionally cleaned, flow & leak tested.

7. All new vacuum lines everywhere.





This may be related, I don't know, but if this were a carbeurated car, I'd say it's running too rich. The plugs get black & there is blueish fuel smelling smoke out of the exhaust. I've adjusted the BAC valve per the manual, but it doesn't seem to make a difference.



The car has plenty of power & idles perfectly. I can't set the timing because the alignment marks are off for some reason (read my post, "Timing Problem").



Any ideas?

Adjust the TPS.

usually is a vacuum leak, i had 2 vacuum lines crossed and my car would do the exact same thing as you describe



mike

leaky injectors?

Which 2 lines?

Any tricks for adjusting the TPS?, or just follow the instructions in the manual.

I had the injectors professionally cleaned, flow & leak tested.

I use the voltage method. I've never used the two light method most people talk about.





My car didn't have any hot-start problems after I had the TPS replaced, so that's why I'm suggesting checking it.

i got an extra tps at home somewhere. its yours for a cheap price if ya need it

Which 2 lines? [/quote]

2 at the air control valve

Bad BAC or driver for it. With the engine idling, pull the connector for the BAC, if the idle does not drop you have a problem with either the BAC or the ECU (its common for the pins in the connector to short out and blow the driver on the ECU). I had this on my car, same symptoms - fixed the ECU and no more problem.



-Henrik

Does anyone know, could the engine timing be causing this problem & the problem of it running rich & fouling the plugs?

it could be flooding..... when it does that again just do the unflooding trick..



open the hood and unplug the ECU INJ fuse .... turn the engine over for about 3 sec. put the fuse back in and fire the car back up.. works great.... your problem is a classic one for the FCs

The idle drops a couple of hundred RPM's when I unplug the valve.

I have a switch on the steering column tied to the fuel pump relay. It makes no difference if I turn the fuel on or not. I don't think it's flooding, because if you let it sit for 1/2 hour or so & cool down, it starts right up.

I have a switch on the steering column tied to the fuel pump relay. It makes no difference if I turn the fuel on or not. I don't think it's flooding, because if you let it sit for 1/2 hour or so & cool down, it starts right up. [/quote]

could be a bad starter... does it turn over and just not fire or what?? if the starter doesnt turn could be heating up the wires and the wires then see the wrong impedance....

I have a switch on the steering column tied to the fuel pump relay. It makes no difference if I turn the fuel on or not. I don't think it's flooding, because if you let it sit for 1/2 hour or so & cool down, it starts right up. [/quote]

could be a bad starter... does it turn over and just not fire or what?? if the starter doesnt turn could be heating up the wires and the wires then see the wrong impedance.... [/quote]

I'm sorry. My post was un-clear. The car turns over just fine. It just won't start.



This problem is driving me crazy. I don't understand how a car that is running perfectly can be shut off (either by the key or turning off fuel flow, it doesn't matter) and not be able to start back up.

It is probably the cranking enrichment circut on the ECU flooding the engine

find the wire that tells the ECU that you are cranking and cut it.