At 150k miles what could be causing a na 87 to not start but sounds like it wants to?

Oh yeah how doi tell the diff between a s4 and a s5? im new to FC's....

S5 has round tail lights, S4 have square ones. S5 front ends look a little different, they have more of a spoiler on the bottom and are recessed some whereas the s4 ones are not recessed at all. If it hasn't been repainted a s4 will have black trim. Plus the engines looks a little different.

Oh yeah, the engine might be flooded. I do believe the FC's can flood with some frequency.

A flooded engine doesnt sound hard to fix? Also it looks like a S4. It has a blue interior.... its odd... For 500 it may be a good deal, if i can get it seeing how i cant drive yet. Maybe could be a project car to work on hmm yeah a project, for educational purposes too hmm.



Whats the msot expensive thing that could be wrong with it? https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

One expensive thing could be a new engine. There are others.



S4='86 to '88

S5='89 to '91



Find the unflood procedure in the FAQ's. That would be the most likely reason for no start. Basically, you have to disable the fuel injection, pull the spark plugs, and crank the engine over to get rid of the excess fuel.

This is an ebay thing so i cant walk up and try that heh.

Anyways how much longer would a car with 150k miles have on the engine?

Well thats kind of a tough question to answer especially on an Ebay car. There are many variables like proper fluids, current compression and stuff like that. I drove a beat up 2nd gen that ran great with over 200,000 miles on it and I highly doubt it had been well maintained. I would just kind of guess that around 180,000 miles and up your chances of terminal engine problems are more greater than less.

It would be easier to find an fc that is local and for sale, something that you could check out in person. :bigthumg:

there are alot more things diffrent in the 2 diffrent series the s4's have heaver lower compression rotors and start redlining at 7k where the s5's have lighter weight higher compression rotors that redline at 8k RPM's Turbo II models all redline at 7 no matter which series it is. i beleve the s4's are sopose to be 90-90-90 and the s5's are sopose to be 110-110-110 if i am not mistaken. The GTUs was only made 1989-1990and only 100 were sold then dropped off the market. some series 4's are mostly 4 lug there are some 5 lug but all series 5 are 5 lug. GXL's and TII's are 5 lugs. the motors look diffrent. if you look at the top intake maifold you will see a big diffrence. different types of struts, although s4 and s5 shocks and springs are interchangeable. the spedo on s4's go to 150 and on s5's it goes to 160. s4 na motors put out 145hp and s5 na motors put out 160hp. the s4 TII motor puts out 175 amd the s5 motor puts out 200hp. the idiot lights in the center on the s4's are angled up where on the s5's they are angled down. the mirrors on the s4 are diffrent then the ones on the s4. Well i hope thats enough info for you if you need more i have more.



Jeremy

Id rather find a local Fd or TII for cheap but that isnt happeneing. Ive never even SEEN one anywhere in this state and ive been all over..

If you really are considering it, you should go and look at it anyway... maybe its a steal and the seller doesn't know much about rotaries (that could be good or bad).



For the unflood procedure, you don't need to pull the plugs. Flooding is most common when you start it and run it for a short bit before it even warms up all the way, then shut it off. To see if this is it, just look in the engine bay near the battery for the main fuse block with black cover on it, pull the "EGI main" fuse (should be 40 amp, second one in I think), crank the engine for 20 seconds with the fuse out, put fuse back in, see if it turns over then.... don't touch the gas pedal during any of this. This happens to me sometimes when I just pull the car out of the garage and shut it off without letting it warm up all the way.



If you could get it started then, you can get a rough idea of whether or not it has bad coolant seals at least. If it does, white smoke will continue to come out the exhaust for a while even after its up to operating temp.

is that the one in vancouver? it looks real nice, but that says nothing about the condition of the engine...

Yeah its the vancouver one. I would like to go look at it but tis in washington im in ohio so it doesnt quite work out.

im sure if the guy selling the car could have gotten the car started by un-flooding it he would have



I would buy from someone else unless a possible engine rebuild doesnt bother you.



I know someone selling a mint 88 RX-7 convertible in the next few weeks https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png