Once your car is worked over what can be done to give it more stability at high speed?

Hmmm. I think some more info as far as what you're looking for would be helpful... Like define "high". And in what venue? Road course? Highway?



Obviously, springs and dampers would be the first area I'd look at, along with tires and wheel alignment. Then maybe consider the car's aerodynamics. I've always felt my 7 feels very stable at a little over 100 mph on the dragstrip, but then that's just in a straight line.

sorry for vauge post



120 + speed

Highway, mabey road course,

If the car feels unstable, you probably need an alignment. Ive always considered FC's more composed at speed than most cars, even in stock form. Another issue could be worn out shocks.

Vented hood, a real front splitter, a redesigned front undertray, alignment, bushings/suspension/steering mods etc...

"Vented hood, a real front splitter, a redesigned front undertray, alignment, bushings/suspension/steering mods etc..."



Yeah, keep the air flowing over the top of the car. Just look at a F1 car, or a NASCAR model there desighned to create a vacume under the car at high speeds to suck it down to the road.

all new bushings, if you haven't done that already

on top of new bushings, vented hood, splitter and alignment, i would add making sure all the air coming in through the front bumper exits through the hood. Secondly i would make a flat sheet that covered the entire bottom of the car and swept upwards at the rear to generate down force. also, a functional wing and vortex generators along the roof line to keep the wing in clean air.

be careful doing any kind of full undertray because if you do it wrong and the air gets underneath you can become airborn quite quickly and thats not very good lol

more caster! my bmw is fine on the freeway and since the suspension is the same design as an fc, you need to look at the differences.



the bmw has 8+ degrees of caster, stock. its also got the worlds slowest steering rack (20:1), and compared to the fc its got 150lbs of ballast on the front...



soOOoo caster helps keep the wheel straighter, and the slow steering feels better it high speeds (fc gets darty? touchy?) and then that extra weight up front...

at 140mph you'll feel the car lifting the front end a little in stock form. The steering being touchy at that speed combined with the lack of contact to the road from the tires makes it fun. So anything to add some extra down force to the front is what you really want to look for if high speed is your main concern. At 110 the car is still very composed and barely even a noticeable difference from lower speeds. Its just a little after that where things start getting crazy. But this is just what ive experienced. Also i should note it was in a vert so the aerodynamics are a little different and could factor for a good variance in what youll find yourself.

Loose the reactive 4 wheel steering (rear-wheel steering): http://www.mazdatrix.com/rmounts.htm part #04-7402-0000-KT

if you're going to do a full undertray you do not want it completely smooth, thats how racingbeat basically launched into orbit. look into the proper way to do a full body undertray, for instance look udner a new lotus elise.



my t2 was stable at 150mph with manual steering and a dead on alignment with my own custom specs, being able to do your own alignments helps a lot in this area lol.



kevin.

Toe-in

more front caster

real front splitter/spoiler/wing

Rear wing (will kill your speed)

I'd say keep the DTSS (rear-steer system) it's there to keep your car stable, not the other way around. Unless your DTSS is messed up/broken due to use and age, then swap it out for Eliminators.

more front caster is hard to get!



this isnt nissan country.

GC caster/camber plates?

http://www.autozine.org/technical_sc.../tech_aero.htm

look at the bottom for the undertray.

the F355 used a completely flat under tray to reduce turbulence and lift. The elise does have a different type of undertray that is like the under tray labeled "ground effect" on that site. Using the ground effect you can get more down force. fitting one of those to a FC would be rather difficult. you probably could do something like that if you ditched the gas tank and spare tire holder or if you didnt mind having no ground clearance. I dont know what sort of work you do, but if you could make a scale model and do some wind tunnel testing or run tests in CFD software before you actually strap your contraption to your car and goo 150. I am planning on building a full under tray at some point. I just havent had the time to cad everything out and run the simulations on it that i want to.