I took an indepth look at this 1987 Turbo II im looking at today.



There were a few things wrong but what can you expect from a 17 year old car right?



Heres the things that i noticed wrong.



1) the shifter wobbles a bit [owner told me that there is a little clip missing that holds it in place and prevents the wobble thats missing, real simple thing]



2)oil leak, seems like a substantial one. [owner said that the oil filter pedistal has o rings under it that leak] It also seemed to be leaking oil from the cooler lines but i can not confirm that.



3) right side heater core hose has white residue on the outside of it. Appears to be coolant but im not sure.



4) ABS unit seems to be leaking a small amount of fluid (may be the reason for the white stuff on the heater core hoses, but not sure)



5) Need's a new exhaust, but im not to worried about that as of right now. IT will be replaced soon and is not horrible right now



6) Clock does not work, but coudl not care less



7)Gas and Vacume/Boost guage dont function [owner said that there is an electrical problem there]



8) What seems to me like a bad vibration. [owner said that he beleaves its the tranny mounts or somethig of that nature]. I did a search on this and what seemed to come up often was the U-joints in the driveshaft were worn.



9) The sunroof is hard to open and close, it needs a bit of persuasion by your hand to open it and close it. What am i looking at hear? A worne motor? Mabe just some good lubrication in there??



The only things that worrie me right now are the gas and boost guages not working (i know there electrical related as the car had boost when i drove it and i was still driving while it was passed E:P) What is a fix for this. I will try another search but i figured i would ask anyways.



And the vibration. It seems VERY prominent. It worried me right away. Seemed almost like the car had the e-brake on kind of feel. The owner said that RX7's tend to have a fair bit of vibration (bassed on the RX7's he owned). From what i have heared they run very smooth. So im curious if its just the u-joints, or mabe a combo of the u-joints and tranny mounts.



Please if you feel you have any information that coudl possibly help me in some way. PLEASE do post it. I woudl love to have any input on this.



Tim

O and just a bit more GOOD news. I preformed a compression test using a standard compression tester with the shrader (sp?) valve removed. The engin consistantly spiked to 85psi on 3 attempts on each rotor. They were ALL at about 85 psi, Is this good? I looked in the Haynes manual i have and they say that is shoudl be 85psi@250rpms.



Keep in mind this car is COMPLEATLY stock. No modifications at all. The only thing that is not original is the head unit in the stero. This car has just over 200,000KILOMETERS ON IT, NOT MILES

i'd suggest probably u-joint on driveshaft for the vibration, the vert i had did the same thing, replaced the driveshaft, problem solved

Anyone have any idea about the gas guage???



Im conserend with that, i hate to drive around not knowing how much gas i have in the tank :P



Do i need to remove the instrument cluster and check the wiring? Is this a comm on occurance? What is the fix for this. Both the boost and gas guages are not working properly...well not at all. They dont move at all on start up or driving. Where should i begin? I know that checking vacuem sources is a start for the boost guage and i will do that as soon as i have the car in my gargae. But say this is not the problem, where is the next place to look?

for any gauge cluster instrament, i'd take the cluster out and see if anything looks bad visualy, if not, maybe try cleaning contact's, follow wireing and make sure its all good, and if that doesnt do it, use the trip odom once with a full tank and carry a gas can, then find out how far ya go till ya run out, that's what i do when a gas gauge doesnt work https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif after that i barely ever run out of gas because i know exactly how far i can go



as far as the boost gauge goes, i dont know much about them, but i'd think that other then wireing for lighting there wouldnt be much more that could be wrong with it other then vac line, unless its mechanicly bad.. i'd replace it with an aftermarket gauge anyway, but that's just me

Beware the ABS! The pumps all leak and a new one costs $2400.

I had to bleed mine every time I drove it until I eliminated the ABS.

Ok so i picked up the car tonight https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png:D:D:D:D



What a blast to drive.



I beleave it flooded two times on me tho. I stoped to get gas. Then went to start it and did not hold the key long enough to actualy start it. Then it woudl not start after that. So i pulled the relay out for the fuel pump, turned it over a few times. Put the relay back in and started it up.



Is this a common thing or is there somethign wrong with the car?



Im going to get a new driveshaft or see if i can get the u-joints replaced soon, do the clutch throw out bearing cause its winning, and replace the motor mounts cause it seems like there is an offel lot of motor movement.



MAN IM SO EXCITED https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

well since you say it was probably your fault, then its probably ok that it flooded, but if this is a common thing, get your injectors cleaned or replaced..



as far as i know, the u-joints arent replaceable in the stock driveshaft's, it'd be best to just get a new one with replaceable joints



throw out bearing cause's a light scrapeing sound while the clutch isnt depressed but when you depress it it should go away



enjoy the seven and treat her well https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif

Congrats man. Welcome to an addiction.

Im already hooked :P



Im going to check with some drivetrain guys that are local, see if they can do anythign with the unit. But im thinking there is not much i can do to save the driveshaft, so i guess its time to look for a new one, i just dont want to spend 600 on a new one from Mazda :P



I dont really know if its my fault.



Is it normal when the car is at operating temp, when you go to switch it on and you dont quite get it started, turn the key back and re-try it dosent start?

I thought i flooded it by doing this but i was not sure. So i pulled the fuel pump relay and cranked it a few times to get the fuel out of there as best as i could, and then re-connected it and the car started. I did this both times and both times it worked.



Any ideas?

Mine was terrible on hot restarts until I pulled the injectors and had them cleaned. I couldn't shut the engine off to get gas, or I was certain to be under the hood pulling fuses.

Ok so, next paycheque, im having the injectors cleaned, new driveshaft, new oil cooler lines, new oil pedistil seals, shifter bushings, and mabe motor mounts.

a sight i see most people recomending for driveshaft's and other misc parts



http://mazdatrix.com/getprice.asp?partnum=2691-705



only $250 or so, not too bad i'd think

Funny Canadians https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png



Try holding the throttle wide open from the get-go on hot starts. Should work like a charm.



Oh, and if the lines are only leaking at the connections, why do you need new ones?

key-note here: dont bother fixing the stock boost gauge...just get an aftermarket one. The stock one is (a) unreliable (b) unreadable © useless, especially once you start modding it.



To check if the motor mounts are bad try rocking the motor with your hands from side to side, obviously do this when the engine isnt hot. Its easier to check from under the car with a prybar, and a couple other ways but most of the time the rocking method works fine.



As for the leaky ABS, get a bypass kit and kiss the ABS goodbye...unless you wanna have your ******* enlarged by 10 inches when the mazda man charges you $2000+...without including labor.



Also something you might want to do is replace at least both of your heater core hoses...they're known to blow apart and since you dont know when they were last replaced i'd do it just to be safe. Mine blew up on me and luckily i didnt blow my engine, but a number of people have fucked their motors when the heater hoses went while they were driving.



Having a reliable rx7 is all about preventative maintenance. dont wait for **** to break cause then all kinds of havoc happens, you get depressed, then sell the car. ya know?



kevin.

https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...withstupid.gif werd, listen to the man

WOW, thanks for the info guys.



Well the stock boost guage seems to be working. It sits at -20 when just putting around, but moves up close to +40 when i get on it on the highway.



Ive had the car for a day now, put less than 50kms on it and i went through a quarter of a tank :P Is this common, i heard they are bad on gas but that seems excessive.



I have a coold missfire and the warm start problem. This tuesday i think i will have the injectors ultrasonicaly cleaned, replace the plugs, plug wires, clean out the IC, see how much the heater core hoses are, try tightning up the oil cooler lines and see if that helps, replace the oil pedistal o-rings, wash the bejesus out of the car.



Im all for preventitive matinence, but rigt now i dont have much $$ to spend. Im waiting for my tax return. ($595.30) and my next paycheque (590.60). Then i have to pay my insurance on the 15th($289). Then i will put some money into the car. Put some good oil in her. I heared that redline is good. What is a good oil recomended for the T13B??

I run Castrol 20/50 in the lump, Redline MTL in the box and Redline lsd diff lube (forgot the exact name).



As a matter of course with a new-to-you car you should change out all your fluids. And double check your low level warning systems. Keeping them full of oil and coolant is crucial.



Fuel consumption. Yeah they're pigs for their size/wt., but you should be able to get around 20mpg. I always keep a log book in my cars. I've calc'd mine over thousands of miles and the number is always close to that.

Othere thing i am conserend with is that i still have the stock (1987) BOV. I was looking at some local units such as the HKS SSQ BOV, but im conserned, do i have to run to atmosphere or can i recurculate it?



I dont need the shound, although i think it adds a cool effect, im sure that with a SSQ you could hear it even if its recurculated :P



Dont mean to sound like a "ricer" but im curious. I can pick up a new SSQ for 250, or a Greedy Type-S for 200. I know that the greddy requires a specail flange adapther to hook it up to the stock piping and such, does the HKS unit come with the adapter?

instead of spending 250 on a BOV (mind you my car with a t04e blew up an hks ssqv) egt everything running strong and solid just as it should when it was brand new (snice yours is unmolested err unmodified)



Once you have a strong running, solid stock car then you have a solid base to modify on. My first mods would be any free mods (TB mod/port etc). Then I'd probably do the TID mod (removes the airbox, but its not completely an air intake). Look into exhaust systems and pickup a Fuel Cut Defender (FCD).



thats the general "first steps" to addiction...err modification.



but another little phrase for ya:



building an rx7 is like building a house, you must start with a solid foundation.



kevin.

I totaly agree, this is why i woudl no be modifing it much at all.

I just figured that if i were to replace something in the car why not replace it with something better than stock?

I have heared from alot of people that the HKS SSQ is a good unit, but lately i have heared of people having problems with them. What is the problem with the unit??



I ordered new engine mounts and will install on wendsday. It shoudl help the vibration alot. I may also get the oil filter pedistal gaskets to fix the oil leak i have. All depends on how much money i get.

Also, how much woudl i be looking at for the hoses that go to the heater core, as they have a white residue on the exterior of the hoses and i dont want to lose a hose and destroy the engine.

My problem with the HKS SSQV is simply the type of BOV it is. Internally it uses a rubber "diaphragm" my diaphragm exploded inside the BOV while driving.



almost cost me my turbo.



I like the simplicity of the TurboXS RFL that i have now, most people think i have it just cause its loud, but honestly i feel it is the least likely to fail on me like the HKS unit did since its simply a spring, a cylinder inside a cylinder, and a vacuum line. its simple and effective.



kevin.

OK so i should mabe be looking at another BOV.



What about a greddy type-s? I know they dont come with an adapter flange to run them resurculated tho. So id have to fab one or order one.